Busted chain

[00Pete]

Ok so I'm a relatively new biker and have only moderate mechanical knowledge. Recently purchased a 98 GSXR 600 off Trade me and was aware it had a few (noises) issues...tightened up the (APE manual) cam chain tensioner which quietened it somewhat. I was still having a few bouncing/surging issues when maintaining a constant 50-70kms/hr.

In terms of the chain, I gave the rear sprocket and chain a once over upon purchase ie. no major wear on the teeth or rust on the chain (that was about the extent of my investigation).

Yesterday while taking it for a short ride...bang chain broke at about 100km/hr wedging itself firmly into the sprocket cover (or what is left of it) and smashing a few of the bolt mounts for the cover off the block. Once I got it home, upon removal of the remainder of the cover I can see that the waterpump housing is damaged and leaking, the clutch push rod is broken and the oil seal the push rod goes through is leaking. When removing the cover I removed the clutch screw?? from its piece of cover which is broken off and all the ball bearings fell out. Engine still runs and idles ok.

Any ideas for the best place for parts or advice on how to go about replacing the damaged bits would be appreciated (do I need to open up the transmission to replace that seal?). I have a manual for the bike. Though nothing like a good but of specific advice from someone who's been there and done it before.

[Warr]

Try Bike Busters ... He has recently moved. .... Dont know new address
Bike Busters
21 Hakarimata Rd
Ngaruawahia
Ph: 07 824 7705

[p.dath]

You don't really here about a lot of chain failures.

Do you think the chain was too tight, or had a weak link or something?

[CookMySock]

Chain would have been worn, and spat the dummy.

Steve

[00Pete]

Not sure. I took a walk back down the road to see if I could find the missing link, though I didn't spend too long looking as it was hot out and I was a little too pissed off to have a decent look around. Chain is pretty stiff now it's off, but I'm not sure how free they move when in good nik. I've not long had the bike and haven't had a chance to take it for a decent ride and do any maintenance that was lacking.

[quickbuck]

Right...
Sorry, can't really help with the broken parts apart from recommending bike busters too...

As for how it happened, well, there are a few scenarios.
Did the chain have clip type leader link?
Or, was it riveted?

If it had a clip, then these can be installed the wrong way round. Meant to be legs to the rear of direction on travel.
If a riveted link, these can also fail if not riveted properly.

Now, either type can fail IF the chain was done up too tight. About 25mm slack is normal in the middle of the chain.
Also, chains can develop tight spots where there is a seized link... this can also lead to undue pressure on a leader link.

Hope this helps out for the future.

[Pixie]

Not sure. I took a walk back down the road to see if I could find the missing link, though I didn't spend too long looking as it was hot out and I was a little too pissed off to have a decent look around. Chain is pretty stiff now it's off, but I'm not sure how free they move when in good nik. I've not long had the bike and haven't had a chance to take it for a decent ride and do any maintenance that was lacking.

Shouldn't be stiff at all

[F5 Dave]

Well. . .define 'stiff'. O-rings cause drag from new. But stiff stiff is obviously wrong. Anything you have trouble manipulating with your fingers is way too stiff. One would have expected that to show up as tight & loose spots as the tight area went around the front sprocket.

A split link shouldn't be used on a bike with this much power. Should be riveted properly (although some think you can do it with a hammer, without evidence no one can say it was, but this case sure points out the risk of getting it wrong).

Bad luck with the bits broken. Hope you can find replacements & obviously a decent chain.

[quickbuck]

although some think you can do it with a hammer, without evidence no one can say it was, but this case sure points out the risk of getting it wrong.

Well, technically you can indeed form rivets with a hammer.... Just got to know what you are doing.
As for Rivets on a chain, yes, even more so. Stuff all redundancy if you get it wrong! In fact, if you get one wrong, there is no chance for the second rivet to hold! So... Yes, potential for lots of damage, and potential for loss of bike/ life right up there!

[paddy]

. . .Chain is pretty stiff now it's off, but I'm not sure how free they move when in good nik. . .

My old chain had lots of kinks ----/\----V----- in it. They required pressure from a thumb and forefinger on both hands to flatten out the chain. My brand new chain was much looser. If you laid it along the ground it would still have links that sat up or down, but gentle pressure from a single forefinger would flatten it out. The chain wasn't quite heavy enough to flatten out under it's own weight.

Hope my description made sense and gives you an idea of how it should be.

[owner]

Also how many km has it done? That is the original front sprocket. Maybe 10 years of abuse without changing sprockets have something to do with it?
I had the same surging/lurching on my 600RR while maintaining constant revs. After reading the damage here I feel a bit better about doing some maintainance before I race again. My bike sits lifeless with new sprockets and no chain because I need the tool. Hopefully get one on Tues.

My gsxr400 snapped a camchain on my second ride. So dont feel to bad 00Pete

Fix the leak and get a new chain/sprocket kit. I payed $350 for my new kit. Putting the new sprockets on is easy, as is angle grinding the old chain off. But finding the rivet tool What a mission!!