To the original poster.
STOP NOW.
While I realise that everyone who is posting here have good intentions, the simple fact is that it's highly risky to go making assumptions particularly via the internet.
From what you describe, (in my professional qualified opinion) it's not the carb.
It COULD be the reeds, but, you suggest that there is a 0.2mm gap in the reeds, (but I assume there are no splits etc), then that will be OK (the negative pressure in the reed block will close them)
"Decoking" (on modern two strokes) is not like it used to be.
FFS do not put your expansion chamber in a fire. (Sheesh!)
If you really want to fix this problem with-out taking it to a workshop, (though I recommend that you do) then think about this.
The archillies heel of the RG150's is the power valve.
The power valve is located on the font of your cylinder, above the exhaust.
I suggest, due to your symptoms, that this is the problem.
If you remove the fairings, and look at the font of your cylinder you will see a rectangular cover, secured by 4 screws.
Remove these screws.
A small amount of burned black oil will come out when you do, but don't fret, it's ok.
under this cover is the power valve mechanism, and in all likely hood, the power valves will be jammed open/damaged in some way.
If this sounds a little technical/difficult, perhaps a shop wold be better.
It may save heart ache.
It could be partial seize, which has damaged the bore and piston enough to
drop the compression. This will make the motor a flat and gutless slug.
Power valves falling to bits is common, and one type of failure has the valve(remains) wearing way at the edge of the piston. This is a cause of the seize (above). It's amazing how well they go with stuffed power valves in this state as well. If you take off the cover and lots of bits come out to meet you, then you need a thorough power valve service, and I modify them to give the best future chances. In exteme situations I fit new single stage valves, lapped to fit the (usually) knackered bore they live in. These are way cheaper than originals and way better as well. I do about 1 barrell assembly a fortnight for people all around NZ so if you need that service PM me for details.
Or it could be fuelling. As many have said, thoroughly clean all jets including the float needle. The taps are prone to blocking so take it out and clean well. Water easily gets in the tank causing big trouble too, so clean and dry the tank. (But it doesn't rain in Auckland does it?) Check the cap breather is not blocked. One quick way to check re fuelling is when a bike is giving such symptoms, turn the choke on. If it momentarily improves things, fuel is a dead ringer for the first place to look
If the bike runs mint over 8500rpm and flat below then the power valve is stuck open - if the bike runs mint up to 8500 then feels flat above the power valve is stuck closed. Which is the case????
Not sure about the rg150 but most power valves have a clean cycle when you turn the ignition on - easy as you should hear it rotate. If it doesn't you can always check that the solenoid/motor works as you rev it to over 8500rpm - just blip the throttle - you should see it rotate/move - if not, it is stuck or the solenoid/motor stuffed.
I am still not entirely convinced it is the power valve though - it wouldn't have died if just the power valve was stuck open UNLESS you expected it to be able to pull a high gear at low revs. It would feel like it has absolutely no power below 8500rpm but should still run bit like a car with a blown head gasket - runs but no power.
I wouldn't bother with the carbon in the exhausts at the moment - get it running mint first. When you do, get a hot air gun, that way the heat is controlled and the oil/carbon will starting burning and the air keep it burning hot enough to burn the carbon.
Easy things first. 1.check the spark & spark plug 2. check the fuel 3. check the power valve is rotating. 4. clean the jets/carb - if it is still not running then take the exhaust off and check for signs of a partial seizure.
Put your hand on a hot stove for a minute, and it seems like an hour. Sit with a hot girl for an hour, and it seems like a minute. That's relativity. Albert Einstein
It's like it's stuck open. Nothing wrong with carb or reed valves.
When I took off the powervalve plate some stuff fell out which was attached to the one powervalve but haven't managed to get the three screws off yet to inspect the powervalves so can't be 100% certain as to it's them that's causing the problem. Have to wait for the impact driver to arrive before I can take them out. But as to what fell out, it looks like a bracket that holds the powervalve actuator thing (broken in half, will get a new one machined when I get to a lathe) and a spring.
What the bracket looks like
http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=k1fsc4st.jpg
What the bracket is meant to look like.
http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=4r1sm3xi.jpg
Should I make it out of aluminum which is what I think it is already or make it out of something stronger like stainless steel? It doesn't rub up against anything so it shouldn't matter, right?
Yeap so it's the powervalve. MUNTED! Anyon have any ideas if I can get an engineering shop to make me some? Would be expensive but cheaper than ordering from Japan.
PS. Does the RGV150 use the same engine as the RG150, with powervalves etc...?
The broken bit is called " SPACER, exhaust valve Part No 11263-08011"
It's common to see them broken. I make new ones from mild steel, way better. Making them requires a bit of care, the hole has to exactly in the right place so I have a precision drilling jig to acheive this, plus the hole is a very strange size, so I've ground a special drill diameter to suit.
The offer is still there, I can service and repair the whole arrangement. Send the barrell and head attached as a complete assembly. If the power valves are a write off I'll fit new ones at around $200 for the valves plus fitting. Way cheaper and better than the originals. PM me if interested.
Oyster, I gave you a PM.
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