Cost of stators?

[E Ashmore]

I have a 2003 gsxr 600 with charging issues, i have a feeling the stator is rooted but i dont know. im just wondering what the costs are to get a new one or the one i have rewound.

[trumpy]

Mine was about $350 to get rewound as opposed to Triumph trying to flog me a new one for $1200.

[E Ashmore]

who did yo send it to to get rewound?

[boomer]

The stator rewinders

[Kickaha]

who did yo send it to to get rewound?

J.Halsey Rewinds, Auckland
0-9-534 4161

Cairns Electrical Services
11 Leonard Pl Dinsdale Hamilton
07-847 4233

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-262125128.htm

[CookMySock]

You can easily test it, or have it tested. At least that will give you a straight answer.

With the engine stopped, unplug the stator from the reg/rect and test megohms from each stator wire to battery negative terminal. You should get very high or infinite ohms. Low ohms indicate a short to ground. This is for an isolated stator (most are isolated?)

With the stator unplugged, start the engine and measure AC volts between any of the three stator wires. You should get 20V approx at idle, rising to 60-70V at 6-7,000 rpm. All AC volts reading combinations betwteen the wires should be the same or very similar. Any difference indicates a shorted pole or turns.

With the engine running, connect the stator to the reg/rect while monitoring the battery voltage - batt volts should rise somewhat, and the engine note should change slightly as you plug it in. Don't touch the bare pins on the plug or it will burn you - not badly, but you will likely drop something expensive or sharp.

If you have a clamp meter, with everything connected test AC amps in the stator wires, and DC amps in the output of the reg/rect - some system load current should show, and it should vary when you alter the loads (brake lights, head lights etc.)

Steve

[YellowDog]

Good explanation. Will keep it for future reference.

The only comment I would make is that a rewind is a much better option and likely to give you a better end result that will out last the OEM part.

[CookMySock]

Good explanation. Will keep it for future reference.

The only comment I would make is that a rewind is a much better option and likely to give you a better end result that will out last the OEM part.

Thank you.

Yes, you might think a hand rewound stator might be better. I did that, and eventually went back to a new OEM one, because ;

• The insulation on the bare metal stator was quite damaged after the new turns were nicked and damaged by this. It was a lot of work to recover the stator to a point where it could safely be rewound.
• The shellac baked on by the repairer wasn't really up to task, and remained tacky.
• A new oem stator was only a few hundred dollars.
• It was fun dicking with it for a while but I got tired of it.
  

Steve

[malcy25]

Check http://www.hpi.be. There may well be an aftermarket option ready to bolt on for your bike.

http://www.mdlracing.co.nz are the importers. Manufacturer will refer you to MDL (ie his authorised agent) if you try to buy direct.

Nicely made kit. I have a couple of their complete ignitions in my posession.

[Blackbird]

+1 for Kickaha's response. Have used Ken Cairns and his service was superb. He even rebuilt my Blackbird stator to a higher spec than OEM and it only cost ~ $200 delivered.

[notme]

E Ashmore - You don't mention why you suspect the alternator or even the charging system - use a chart like the electrex one that is on KB in many places (such as http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...ight=flowchart ) to diagnose the problem - it may not be the alternator at all, perhaps not even the charging system as such, it could be somethign as simple and CHEAP as a bad connection.