R6 clonks into first gear

**virtual120** · 7th January 2010, 15:36

My Yamaha R6 really clonks into first gear. Is this normal or does something need adjusting ?

Many thanks.
Tim

**R6_kid:Me** · 7th January 2010, 15:47

Your clutch might be dragging, you can adjust it on the right hand side of the motor. You might need to take the fairings off to do so.

**Taz** · 7th January 2010, 15:50

Almost every bike I've owned does that.

**virtual120** · 7th January 2010, 16:15

Originally Posted by R6_kid

Your clutch might be dragging, you can adjust it on the right hand side of the motor. You might need to take the fairings off to do so.

Does this mean I have to loosen the clutch cable ?

**CookMySock** · 8th January 2010, 08:00

Originally Posted by virtual120

Does this mean I have to loosen the clutch cable ?

No, tighten just a few millimeters and see what difference it makes - if that is the problem.

Have you just changed the oil? New thick oil will make it clunk extra hard into first gear.

Try waiting for the idle to come down a bit as the engine warms.

Steve

**vifferman** · 8th January 2010, 08:05

This is because the gears (dogs, driven gears and driving gears) aren't aligned so that they can mesh easily. When the bike's moving, they are rotating so it's easier for them to mesh, but when it's stationary, they can't.
An easy way to avoid the clunking is to roll the bike forward a few cm as you put it into gear - it makes the driven gears in the gearbox rotate so they can mesh more easily. YOu can also try letting the clutch out fractionally so the driving gears rotate instead, but this takes some finesse to do without graunching the gears.

**White trash** · 8th January 2010, 08:10

Fucken hell, a website full of motorcyclists and the most ovious answer isn't yet apparent. It's a Yamahahaha, they're shit and that's what they do.

Seriously though, most likely cause is that your chain needs adjusting. No shit, it's that simple.

After that try clustch adjustment.

After that check idle level.

**CookMySock** · 8th January 2010, 08:33

Originally Posted by vifferman

This is because the gears (dogs, driven gears and driving gears) aren't aligned so that they can mesh easily.

Well they aren't aligned whatsoever, coz one is moving and the other is stationary. The only time it won't clunk is if the trans oil is really low.

Steve

**Marmoot** · 8th January 2010, 10:37

Even when everything is well-adjusted and the stars aligned, big bikes always clonk into first gear.

Best to go around and look at your mate's bikes and bike shop's bikes to familiarise yourself with what is a normal clonk (e.g., sounds similar in 8 out of 10 bikes) and what is not. If your bike's clonk is similar to the normal one, stop worrying and enjoy riding.

**R6_kid:Me** · 8th January 2010, 13:53

Originally Posted by Marmoot

Best to go around and look at your mate's bikes and bike shop's bikes to familiarise yourself with what is a normal clonk (e.g., sounds similar in 8 out of 10 bikes) and what is not. If your bike's clonk is similar to the normal one, stop worrying and enjoy riding.

Is it possible to buy an upgraded clonk that doesn't make the noise?

**quickbuck** · 8th January 2010, 22:48

Originally Posted by R6_kid

Is it possible to buy an upgraded clonk that doesn't make the noise?

Yup, currently in area 51 the American military are working on a Stealth Clonk.
If you probe them the government will deny all... Then in 15 years it will be released.... and by 2030 the conspiracy theorists will prove that the stealth clonk never actually existed, and said it is all part of some cover-up involving Dana Scully in lingerie

**virtual120** · 9th January 2010, 18:26

Originally Posted by Marmoot

Even when everything is well-adjusted and the stars aligned, big bikes always clonk into first gear.

Best to go around and look at your mate's bikes and bike shop's bikes to familiarise yourself with what is a normal clonk (e.g., sounds similar in 8 out of 10 bikes) and what is not. If your bike's clonk is similar to the normal one, stop worrying and enjoy riding.

Yep, that makes sense. Im not used to the bike yet so know little about the noises etc. I do know however what doesnt sound right. I have new oil so that could maybe explain the clonk.

The other noise I have just noticed though is when I go from nueral to first and back to neutral and let the clutch out, the engine make a grinding noise. Could this just be that the engine isnt warm enough ?

Thanks for the help.

Cheers
Tim

**Marmoot** · 9th January 2010, 18:46

Originally Posted by virtual120

Yep, that makes sense. Im not used to the bike yet so know little about the noises etc. I do know however what doesnt sound right. I have new oil so that could maybe explain the clonk.

The other noise I have just noticed though is when I go from nueral to first and back to neutral and let the clutch out, the engine make a grinding noise. Could this just be that the engine isnt warm enough ?

Thanks for the help.

Cheers
Tim

New oil and old oil don't make a difference (except maybe the clonk would be ever slightly louder with old oil).
The grinding noise is either the 'clutch rattle' (which is very common on Honda sportsbikes) or cam chain.
Sometimes your cam chain may need to be adjusted, which can be detected during your regular service. But there is nothing to worry about.
Both clutch rattle and slight cam chain rattle are perfectly normal.

The reality is, big bike engines do rattle, grind, clonk, and make a lot of noise.
Again, if you can, surveying different R6 and other bikes might help you familiarise with what is common and what is strange.

That's what 'experience' is, I guess.

Regarding engine warmth, normal engine operation for 30 seconds is usually enough to warm up the engine. If you have digital temperature gauge, it would still show cold, but that is because the coolant thermostat is not yet open (and thus the coolant is still perfectly cold). After 30 seconds of idle from a cold start, you can start riding albeit sensibly (smooth throttle operation, no sudden rev increases) until reaching perfect operating temperature (65-80 C).
If anything, rattles are normally louder when the oil is very hot (e.g., stuck in traffic), although this is again nothing to worry about unless you are overheating.

**virtual120** · 9th January 2010, 20:58

Originally Posted by Marmoot

New oil and old oil don't make a difference (except maybe the clonk would be ever slightly louder with old oil).
The grinding noise is either the 'clutch rattle' (which is very common on Honda sportsbikes) or cam chain.
Sometimes your cam chain may need to be adjusted, which can be detected during your regular service. But there is nothing to worry about.
Both clutch rattle and slight cam chain rattle are perfectly normal.

The reality is, big bike engines do rattle, grind, clonk, and make a lot of noise.
Again, if you can, surveying different R6 and other bikes might help you familiarise with what is common and what is strange.

That's what 'experience' is, I guess.

Regarding engine warmth, normal engine operation for 30 seconds is usually enough to warm up the engine. If you have digital temperature gauge, it would still show cold, but that is because the coolant thermostat is not yet open (and thus the coolant is still perfectly cold). After 30 seconds of idle from a cold start, you can start riding albeit sensibly (smooth throttle operation, no sudden rev increases) until reaching perfect operating temperature (65-80 C).
If anything, rattles are normally louder when the oil is very hot (e.g., stuck in traffic), although this is again nothing to worry about unless you are overheating.

Thanks for that, I feel alot better now.

**DarkLord** · 11th January 2010, 21:34

Originally Posted by Marmoot

Even when everything is well-adjusted and the stars aligned, big bikes always clonk into first gear.

Best to go around and look at your mate's bikes and bike shop's bikes to familiarise yourself with what is a normal clonk (e.g., sounds similar in 8 out of 10 bikes) and what is not. If your bike's clonk is similar to the normal one, stop worrying and enjoy riding.

This.

My 250cc bikes would never clonk (or only very lightly) my SV650 does.

Means your engine has a bigger set of balls. Be proud of your clonk.