GSX750F banging noise?

[sammcj]

Mint, still got the covers off while doing a few other things, she should be up and running again tomorrow!
She's looking good, very tidy under the tank etc...

In the haynes manual it says "With the bike on the center stand the chain should have 20-30mm movement top to bottom" (From the center of the lower track).
I've got it set to about 30-35mm - seems pretty damn tight to me! - MSTRS what do you run on your GSXR?

[MSTRS:Me]

About 25mm. You need to rotate the wheel and measure chain movement at various points as it turns. This way, you find any tight spots and, if so, make the tightest point have the 25mm of play.

[quickbuck]

About 25mm. You need to rotate the wheel and measure chain movement at various points as it turns. This way, you find any tight spots and, if so, make the tightest point have the 25mm of play.

Also ensures your sprockets are concentric.... Believe me, I have seen some that are not in recient times.... Had us scratching our heads. It ias 1mm out, and hell it made a difference!

[MSTRS:Me]

Also ensures your sprockets are concentric.... Believe me, I have seen some that are not in recient times.... Had us scratching our heads. It ias 1mm out, and hell it made a difference!

Tell me about that.
Case in point. A mate of mine was having trouble setting the chain on his RF900. Got the bike round to mine, put it on the paddock stand, and proceeded to try setting the slack. An hour of fiddling later, I gave up. Turns out he had got the shop to fit a new chain and sprockets a few months ago. Big mistake - he didn't check what they'd done. New chain and rear sprocket only. He's done only 6000kms and his chain and new sprocket are fucked. We marked the tight spots on the chain BUT they keep changing because a sprocket is out of round, coupled with accelerated wear on the chain. He left here with a chain that varied between 25mm and near-on 45mm play, plus an instruction for the bike shop. REPLACE THE LOT.

[sammcj]

Any tips for a silly bastard on starting a flooded engine?
Tried the trick of full throttle and winding over for 10-15sec - no go.

[quickbuck]

Any tips for a silly bastard on starting a flooded engine?
Tried the trick of full throttle and winding over for 10-15sec - no go.

Leave it in the sun for a while... Oh, wait, sun is going down...

Then next step is to do as you did. You will be right on the 750 re fouled plugs, as they will eventually burn off the wet plugs.
250's on the other hand, you are best to pull the plugs and get them cleaned.

Question is, how did you manage to flood it?
These have a vacuum tap that won't actually allow fuel to run unless you are winding the bike over.... OR, did you leave it on "prime", and play on the bike?

I guess if you were winding it over excessively with full choke might have done it....
Not like you can do on the Honda's either, and that is wind it over with the kill switch set to the OFF position.

[sammcj]

So I should be trying with the Choke on?
Should I leave her sitting with the choke on or off?

I did it with the prime setting because I'm a food and was playing around, had the tank off checking air filter etc...
Looked at a plug and it was wet.

Dang, was hoping to put her all back together tonight, don't really want to if I might have to take her apart again!

[sammcj]

I guess I could take each plug out and clean them, worth doing or not worth the time (bit of a bugger to get to)

[quickbuck]

I guess I could take each plug out and clean them, worth doing or not worth the time (bit of a bugger to get to)

Okay, while it is all apart, pull all the plugs and give them a clean to get all the wet fuel off. Worth doing.

Now, note this bit for next time you want to start your bike after having it apart:

Put the fuel tap to PRIME only if you have drained the fuel out of the Carbs. Then only PRIME it until the bowls are full. (Can check this with a screw driver and a turn of the drain screw).
Else, start engine by having Fuel set to ON (Or RES) if it is low.
Now for the procedure proper:
1) Sit on Bike
2) Kick Stand Up
3) Turn on Key
4) Apply Full Choke
5) Pull in Clutch
6) Check bike is in Neutral
7) Press Starter (Note: I didn't say apply throttle), until engine fires but no longer than 10 seconds.
8) Wait for revs to climb above 2500 before reducing Choke (Can let the clutch out in Neutral at this point too).
9) Ride off when engine is stable with no choke.

Note, all your gear should be fitted before starting your bike, but many take short cuts re this....

Hope this helps (and I thought of everything).

[sammcj]

She's running like a kitten!

-Took plugs out and cleaned them again
-Left her sitting for 2 hours
-Apply full choke
-Start with no throttle
-Reduced choke but held throttle to keep her idling around 1600 for 20 seconds
-She was idling nicely!

Thanks again for your input, I believe when I had the tank off I may have set it to prime when fiddling around.

[sammcj]

I can see why the owner before last had a 45 tooth sprocket on the rear, I think when I do the chain I'll definitely replace the new 47 with a 45...

Do you ever need to 'align' the front discs / brakes? (sound warped)

[MSTRS:Me]

2 teeth up on the rear sprocket will alter your top speed down by about 10kph, but give you better acceleration. Did you pop a wheelie?
Discs do warp. Check by raising the front wheel off the ground, and give it a spin. The unscientific method is to look at the disc/s from the front, and note whether they appear to move side-to-side. If they do, you need to get them properly checked, using a springloaded micrometer attached to the fork leg/s.
Otherwise, to check when riding...gently pull in the front brake lever. If warped bad enough, you will feel the brake grab/let go/grab/let go. Also, you may feel the lever 'pulse' under your fingers. Heavy braking at higher speeds will cause the front end to shudder.
If the discs are this bad, they need to be replaced. Straightening discs is no recommended, as a rule. Prepare for a wallet raping...

[sammcj]

I think she possibly rev's a little too easily now but I probably just need to harden up and get used to it!

Yeah both the front and back wheel make contact with the brakes when you spin them by hand but they all feel pretty even, its like they need to release just a little more when they're off?

[MSTRS:Me]

If the wheel/s spin freely, then no problem. Otherwise, go for a ride...couple of kms...pull over and stop using one or other brake...now - quick - feel the OTHER disc/s...hot? or not?...repeat ride/stop/use other brake/feel disc/s...hot or not? If the pads are binding, the affected disc will be hot, without using it to stop.

[sammcj]

Can you just get the discs machined slightly like you do in a car?

Ah I believe the term for the issue is 'brake dragging' did some reading and some times a brake flush is some times the fix.