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Thread: Kibblewhite valves?

  1. #1
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    Kibblewhite valves?

    Anyone used these?

    Looking at replacing the stock ones on my R100 Race Bike with lighter valves and titanium retainer for some peace of mind when running to 7500 8000 rpm

    http://valvetrain.kpmivalvetrain.com...-5-motorcycle?

    (Tosser comments will be sent to PD where they belong and red rep given)
    DeMyer's Laws - an argument that consists primarily of rambling quotes isn't worth bothering with.

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    They have earned a good reputation in thumpers. FWIW

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    The GSXR1000 we run in the sidecar has got them in and it's been given a hammering for the last few years with zero problems
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


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    Even BP would shy away from cleaning up a sidecar oil spill.
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    beemers don't blow up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    beemers don't blow up.
    They fucking do with you riding them
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


    Quote Originally Posted by scracha View Post
    Even BP would shy away from cleaning up a sidecar oil spill.
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
    Send Lawyers, guns and money, the shit has hit the fan

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kickaha View Post
    They fucking do with you riding them
    that's cos I cant ride.

  7. #7
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    They're very good - use them.

    I've been caught trying to do odd size stainless valves and using blanks. Most aftermarket stainless stuff comes in 3 grades - and for an aircooled race motor you want the very top grade. Unfortunately some brands I won't name here are very poor at labelling the grades and you don't always get what it's supposed to be....Kibblewhite are exactly as described in my experience.

  8. #8
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    I've been running a stock BMW 308 cam which is ok but have picked up a proven German asymmetric cam. Also been using the valves that came with the engine, BMW 2 piece ones so looking to lighten the valves, put beehive springs and titanium retainers in.
    Looked at fancy light pushrods and followers but at 250 and 300 Euros a set ...eek
    Its not really worth the money given the rider does not have much talent.


    Hey Norog....I thought you were moving on up from Bavarian Tractor Power?
    DeMyer's Laws - an argument that consists primarily of rambling quotes isn't worth bothering with.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
    I've been running a stock BMW 308 cam which is ok but have picked up a proven German asymmetric cam. Also been using the valves that came with the engine, BMW 2 piece ones so looking to lighten the valves, put beehive springs and titanium retainers in.
    Looked at fancy light pushrods and followers but at 250 and 300 Euros a set ...eek
    Its not really worth the money given the rider does not have much talent.


    Hey Norog....I thought you were moving on up from Bavarian Tractor Power?
    Go hard, I'm still going to beat you on a stock one.
    I fixed my concerns about over revving stock parts, I smashed my tachometer to pieces in a massive crash & now I wouldn't have a clue what it revs to.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
    I've been running a stock BMW 308 cam which is ok but have picked up a proven German asymmetric cam. Also been using the valves that came with the engine, BMW 2 piece ones so looking to lighten the valves, put beehive springs and titanium retainers in.
    Looked at fancy light pushrods and followers but at 250 and 300 Euros a set ...eek
    Its not really worth the money given the rider does not have much talent.


    Hey Norog....I thought you were moving on up from Bavarian Tractor Power?
    Na given up in that idea, apparently you aren't allowed to run a reliable 46 year old stock engine.

    You can just get some pushrods made, I have aluminium ones which have just been made with ali tube and had some generic ends press fitted. Ive only managed to bend one so far.

    P.S. I weighed one against a standard old style pre 75 pushrod, and the difference wasn't even worth writing down, so I didn't, hence I cant remember what it was.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
    I've been running a stock BMW 308 cam which is ok but have picked up a proven German asymmetric cam. Also been using the valves that came with the engine, BMW 2 piece ones so looking to lighten the valves, put beehive springs and titanium retainers in.
    Looked at fancy light pushrods and followers but at 250 and 300 Euros a set ...eek
    Its not really worth the money given the rider does not have much talent.


    Hey Norog....I thought you were moving on up from Bavarian Tractor Power?
    I've been lightening rockers and making lightweight pushrods for years...it's not hard.
    Why beehive springs ? Every time i've gone away from normal good quality parallel wind ones, I've had trouble.....
    Edit - long time since i've had a BM bike engine on the bench, what dia are the pushrod ball ends ? I've got a couple of form tools here for doing alloy tips....

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    I've been lightening rockers and making lightweight pushrods for years...it's not hard.
    Why beehive springs ?.
    These "modern" racers seem to think they're all the rage.....apparently.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    ....
    Edit - long time since i've had a BM bike engine on the bench, what dia are the pushrod ball ends ? I've got a couple of form tools here for doing alloy tips....
    8.65mm, and I didn't even have to google that.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    .....

    P.S. I weighed one against a standard old style pre 75 pushrod, and the difference wasn't even worth writing down, so I didn't, hence I cant remember what it was.
    as it turns out I have far too much old shitter parts lying around, just found 2 push rods while looking for some sandpaper, 1 aluminium one and 1 pre 75 one.
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  15. #15
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    Well I don't have a form tool for that orphan size...It looks as though the OD of both rods is 10mm ?
    Personally I've never used less than 12mm OD alloy tube for pushrods. If you're going light gauge, you've got to go up in OD to keep them stiff in my experience.

    Best example was the Goggomobile TQ engine - very BM like and with pushrods about 15 inches long...
    With springs and cam good enough - and supercharged - the std pushrods flexed enough that the timing figures when measured on the bench were all over the place. Went to 1/2in OD 16g alloy tube and it flew...Till it blew a cylinder off.

    Nev - ever see valve springs with oval wire ? The kit for the first watercooled GSXR 750 used them. Absolute POS. A very short lived fashion.

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