MVX250 Project

**Scotty595** · 8th February 2010, 19:23

Originally Posted by dangerous

hahaha, ohhh sorry still loughing at WT having a mate... cos having a MVX is nothing to lough at aye

I never saw a MVX seize their habbit was holing pistons, the VF400 had the same fairing too if ya need one... and to hotwire a stroker all ya do is unplug the ingnition, they only stop when earthed out.

Having a MVX is definately no laughing matter

Oh wow. I didnt know it was so simple too hotwire. Dammit! would have got it started already if i knew that lol.

**RDjase** · 8th February 2010, 20:00

Originally Posted by dangerous

HUH? you have a 'mate'

hahaha, ohhh sorry still loughing at WT having a mate... cos having a MVX is nothing to lough at aye

I never saw a MVX seize their habbit was holing pistons, the VF400 had the same fairing too if ya need one... and to hotwire a stroker all ya do is unplug the ingnition, they only stop when earthed out.

Not sure there a Mag CDI like a LC.
I had to give jimmys one a power feed at the ignition switch to get spark (and the kill switch was sticky) wasnt hard to do. just need a multi meter to find the 12 volt wire. Jimmy should be able to send you which wires to use, was a while ago i did it

**Sable** · 8th February 2010, 21:22

Just pull out the ignition lock and take it to a good locksmith. They can either cut a new key from a number stamped on the lock or if it's unreadable/nonexistent do something called shadowcutting.

**Scotty595** · 9th February 2010, 05:45

Originally Posted by Sable

Just pull out the ignition lock and take it to a good locksmith. They can either cut a new key from a number stamped on the lock or if it's unreadable/nonexistent do something called shadowcutting.

Thanks for that. Will do it shortly

**Scotty595** · 9th February 2010, 05:45

Originally Posted by Sable

Just pull out the ignition lock and take it to a good locksmith. They can either cut a new key from a number stamped on the lock or if it's unreadable/nonexistent do something called shadowcutting.

Thanks for that. Will do it shortly

**RDjase** · 9th February 2010, 05:53

Originally Posted by Scotty595

Thanks for that. Will do it shortly

Im glad someone else gets double post's. Thought it was my PC

When do you plan to have the MVX running?

**Scotty595** · 9th February 2010, 06:00

Ahh dammit hate when that happens.

Well... Depends what you mean by running.

If you mean engine going and pootling up and down the road - then shortly. If you mean fully road registered and ready to go on rides... then a while (at least a few months probably more like 6-12)

I have sourced a new clutch unit and front fairing. So once i get the keys locksmithed and replace battery and sparks should be ready to go up and down street.. May just needa find someone to help me with the tuning so i dont go pop, before i ride it too far.

**RDjase** · 9th February 2010, 06:16

Originally Posted by Scotty595

Ahh dammit hate when that happens.

Well... Depends what you mean by running.

If you mean engine going and pootling up and down the road - then shortly. If you mean fully road registered and ready to go on rides... then a while (at least a few months probably more like 6-12)

I have sourced a new clutch unit and front fairing. So once i get the keys locksmithed and replace battery and sparks should be ready to go up and down street.. May just needa find someone to help me with the tuning so i dont go pop, before i ride it too far.

Just till if makes a noise and has some self propelled forward motion. Make sure you have freash 2 stoke oil and the oil pump is primed and working,

Start a thread in BFTP, There are heaps of helpfull members in Auckland to lend a hand

**dangerous** · 9th February 2010, 07:05

Originally Posted by Scotty595

.. May just needa find someone to help me with the tuning so i dont go pop, before i ride it too far.

I have seen that info but cant remember were, IIRC hondas timing was wrong and carbs proberly on the lean side... so how ever finds the info 1st post the shit up here.

**Scotty595** · 9th February 2010, 07:19

Originally Posted by RDjase

Just till if makes a noise and has some self propelled forward motion. Make sure you have freash 2 stoke oil and the oil pump is primed and working,

Start a thread in BFTP, There are heaps of helpfull members in Auckland to lend a hand

Yeah shouldnt take too long before it has some self propelled forward motion. No oil/petrol/etc in at the moment so will definately be topping that up first. Might post a thread once i get it running.

**Scotty595** · 9th February 2010, 07:20

Originally Posted by dangerous

I have seen that info but cant remember were, IIRC hondas timing was wrong and carbs proberly on the lean side... so how ever finds the info 1st post the shit up here.

Yeah i think someone said somthing about that in Jimmy's MVX thread.

**dangerous** · 9th February 2010, 07:29

Originally Posted by RDjase

Make sure you have freash 2 stoke oil and the oil pump is primed and working,

Start a thread in BFTP, There are heaps of helpfull members in Auckland to lend a hand

hey, I asume the MVX dosent have a fancy oil feed system like suzuki's CCI aye? so knowing how old these bikes are I think I would be removing the oil pump and premixing, then ya know its getting oil.

whats BFTP?

**Scotty595** · 9th February 2010, 07:34

Originally Posted by dangerous

hey, I asume the MVX dosent have a fancy oil feed system like suzuki's CCI aye? so knowing how old these bikes are I think I would be removing the oil pump and premixing, then ya know its getting oil.

whats BFTP?

Wouldn't be a bad idea but then I would need to carry 2 stroke everywhere. If I went on a longer ride it would be a pain in the arse.

BFTP (Blast from the past) - http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/group.php?groupid=110

**Scotty595** · 9th February 2010, 07:35

Originally Posted by scotty595

yeah i think someone said somthing about that in jimmy's mvx thread.

Originally Posted by f5 dave

there is all sorts of lore about those, one being that the timing is off & needs to be dial gauged & the pulsar retarded on the rear. Who know if that is myth/pub story, but it couldn't hurt.

Originally Posted by f5 dave

well first thing to do would be start at first principles & put a degree wheel on the flywheel (very cheap large protractor) using an extra nut with bolts to affix it to the crank end if there is enough thread poking out. Make a thin wire pointer line up to the marks on the wheel.

Then a dial gauge in the spark holes would find tdc for one set of pistons. Then wind it on to tdc for the rear piston & presumably that should align at 90 degrees to the front two (they are 90 deg aren't they?) if it is out by a few degrees then the crank wasn't assembled correctly.

Having not seen an mvx ignition set up i will continue with assumption;
presumably the ignition fire is taken off the flywheel by an internal or external pulsar coil. There will be two, one for each bank of cylinders positioned at 90 degrees away from each other. If you want to retard the rear one; slot it's mounting hole & rotate it say a mm or two in the direction the flywheel rotates. This will retard the ignition giving that cylinder an easier time. The coil should remain same distance away from raised bit or the flywheel will clout it, or not work if too far away.

You can work out which cylinder lines up with which pulsar coil as it reaches tdc it will line up with the f (fire) then t (top) mark on the flywheel & there will be a raised section passing under the related pulsar coil then. If performance falls off notably you could wind it back a little, there should be a sweet spot.

I'd also check that the fuel supply is ok to all carbs, watch fuel filters which can be hidden in carbs or taps. Make sure carb jets cleaned out, 2 strokes often seize on closed throttle meaning pilot jet. You could try wind the idle mixture screw in a touch more than the other cylinders which will richen the mixture a tickle.

10 chars!!!!