Ahhhh yes the megaphone. Haven't seen one on a moto3 bike yet. Back to the airbox thing. Before Taupo I had a bit of a desater with an needle that was almost worn through at the clip. I epoxyed it onto place and then noticed it had a couple of weid holes in the power. I had cleaned and serviced the carb and check everything. It was running pretty much open. I figured it was time to build a proper air box. 1 hour later fitted to the bike with longer intake she ran crisp and clean. The length could be out for sure but the main thing I noticed it the consistency of the engines power delivery. It just did not miss a beat. It used to.
interesting article:
http://motortecmagazine.net/article.asp?AID=1&AP=1
Far to many strokes for my liking; but horses for courses.
Hummmm
Anyway, since I've taken a backwards step and made a tempory move to quad stroke; I thought this tread should be bumped.
What's been happening in Palmy (GPR headquarters)??
5 freshly finished GPR tuned FXR engines Have been completed
(including one very lucky welly rider).
We have managed get from 14.7hp to ~21hp. Piston, pipe, cams & carb and head mods.
Currently there is a stock fxr sitting on the dyno and are going to test out some simple bolt on mods to see what can be made easily. Pipe, carb, timing, fuel etc
The idea here is to get a simple set of mods for newbies to follow. ~18Hp is the aim which isn't bad to start with.
Too share the love we will post up our findings. And try and do some YouTube stuff show and tell.
Side notes to get things started:
1. Challenge fuel vs BP 98 (0.5 Hp gain on back to back test on full worked GPR engine)... Something to think about here (is it safe)...
2. Cam chains. Old stretched chains can move timing by up to 10 degrees. Might be why engines feel the best before they shit themselves.
They are cheap so replace them regularly to save heartache. Check and record your cam durations (opening etc). If they drift do something.
3. Clean your chains. The frictional losses on the dyno are surprising. >1Hp loss.
Make sure you get everything lined up correctly (and clean& oiled). don't over chain your bike (buckets don't need anything more than a 420, 415 DID race chain is good for 50+ hp, so think about your 520 chains and how much weight and friction you could loose).
More later when I've got time.
Really interesting, thanks Bert.
A way of varying the inlet tract length and picking up a couple of thousand rpm at the lower end.
From experiments I did with Kel and Gigglebuttons bikes I think a 4T could gain a lot from varying the inlet and exhaust header length as required by just 100mm for the inlet and 50mm in the exhaust.
not seen this thread so going to have a good look![]()
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