GSX1100F clutch dragging

[mioraet]

I've just obtained this tank and it goes really well for its mileage (140,000km but you wouldn't guess it) Everything seems nice and tight but the clutch keeps dragging making it hard to find neutral and causing occasional stalling at the lights. I just bled it the other day and its no better. It didn't seem to push the old fluid out too well requiring a lot of vigorous pumping (ahem..). Lever pressure feels good, clutch takes up smooth, no slip etc. There is a good inch of travel before it takes up properly. I think it could be a master cylinder problem but then I would expect it to take up immediately as soon as you let the lever out..hmmm. Suzuki want $485 for a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit (HOOOOWL!) there must be a cheaper way - Anyone? Any other ideas?? cheers

[robinm]

bleeding the mastercylinder first, by pumping it twice, then cracking the banjo bolt, re tightening it before you release the clutch lever, then proceed to bleed the line and slave cylinder. I find it easier to bleed the line and slave cylinder by taking off the sprocket cover and fashioning a clamp arrangement to prevent the slave cylinder piston moving, then bleed it, seems to bleed a lot easier this way. This is how I bleed both my GSX1100F and GSXR750. Don't forget to wrap a cloth around the master cylinder banjo before you crack it.

[Henk]

Asume you have had the plates out to check that they aren't warped.

[98tls]

Asume you have had the plates out to check that they aren't warped.

As above,clutch plates would be worth a look.

[sidecar bob]

Pull the clutch lever into the handlebar & tape it to the grip. Release the bleedscrew & tighten it again immediately. Leave the lever taped in overnight & in the morning remove the tape & start by gently tapping the lever a few mm, slowly working up to a full stroke & fully releasing it for a few secs after each stroke.
What happens is that air ends up near the top of the clutch hose & because it drops vertically the bubbles keep rising in between bleed pumps, so remain trapped there.
The method i described allows the air to come out of the compensating port in the master cylnder.
Do it with the cap off so you can see if any bubbles come out.
You can also take the slave cylnder off & fully depress it by hand, That will have a similar result, or you may need to do both methods.

[nadroj]

Try changing to a different oil next change. Castrol 4T made a difference & stopped the clutch dragging on my GSXR1100L when I had it.

[Henk]

Another thought is that with that mileage the clutch basket may have some grooves in it causing the problem. If you have no joy with the bleeding it may be time to take the clutch cover off for a gander. Will only cost you a gasket and an oil change so probably worth doing anyway.

[mioraet]

Thanks guys. will try bleeding again. I just changed to Castrol power GPS and I think that made it worse. As for parts can someone suggest where i could get a clutch kit should I need it as I find going to the Suzuki shop to be somewhat "pricey". Used to get parts from overseas for my Yammy (gen. Yamaha) heaps cheaper than from the dealer here (including shipping etc) How does that work?!!

[t3mp0r4ry nzr]

yes, have a look at the basket. may need filing flat. did mine (CR125)the other week and solved clutch drag issues

[terbang]

Straight out of the Suzuki GSX1100F Service manual

Clutch drive plate (fibre) thickness 2.52-2.68mm
Clutch driven plate (steel) distortion .10mm
Clutch spring free length, service limit 38.1mm

Make sure that all the springs are fairly close to each other in length as well.

[Max Preload]

I just changed to Castrol power GPS and I think that made it worse.

I used GPS for a while between R4 fills but have just changed to Fuchs Comp 4T (Silkolene). The gear selection is better, but I just put new clutch steels/frictions/springs in so I can't say definitively what caused the difference, but gear and neutral selection is much better.

As for parts can someone suggest where i could get a clutch kit should I need it as I find going to the Suzuki shop to be somewhat "pricey". Used to get parts from overseas for my Yammy (gen. Yamaha) heaps cheaper than from the dealer here (including shipping etc) How does that work?!!

I get all my parts from US and A. It simply doesn't make sense to pay what they're asking here. There shouldn't be anywhere near as much difference in price as there currently is - buying retail in US and A is like buying wholesale here. The world is a much smaller place these days too - 7-9 weeks ex-Japan? C'mon! 10 days tops ex-US and A (I've had stuff here in 3 before). No contest really. As for local 'service' and 'backup' I've yet to receive, witness or hear anything of that mythical beast.

[mioraet]

I get all my parts from US and A. It simply doesn't make sense to pay what they're asking here. There shouldn't be anywhere near as much difference in price as there currently is - buying retail in US and A is like buying wholesale here. The world is a much smaller place these days too - 7-9 weeks ex-Japan? C'mon! 10 days tops ex-US and A (I've had stuff here in 3 before). No contest really. As for local 'service' and 'backup' I've yet to receive, witness or hear anything of that mythical beast.[/QUOTE]

Who do you use? I have had a look at a few sites and they don't say if they ship overseas

[sidecar bob]

If you send the cylnders to a guy in tauranga, he can do them for peanuts using parts he has in stock.
The company is Powerstop Engineering, He did my Katana 1100 master cylnder for $55 plus GST including parts & labour.
If you sent it to me i could handle it for you.

[JimO]

If you send the cylnders to a guy in tauranga, he can do them for peanuts using parts he has in stock.
The company is Powerstop Engineering, He did my Katana 1100 master cylnder for $55 plus GST including parts & labour.
If you sent it to me i could handle it for you.

i vote bob for site goodbastard

[sidecar bob]

i vote bob for site goodbastard

I vote jimjim for site pisstaker, both here & T.M messageboard.