Cornering light mod?

**imdying** · 12th February 2010, 15:10

Originally Posted by Drogen Omen

ok i have found the lights i'm gona use. here's some pics...

Just remember those have an IP rating of sweet fuck all, they'll panic at the first sign of moisture (i.e. rust out, resistance goes up, followed by current draw, followed by the fuse blowing, followed by throwing the corroded mess in the bin). Steal some driving lights off a car, some with decent refelectors, dichorics are shite.

**Drogen Omen** · 12th February 2010, 15:40

Originally Posted by imdying

Just remember those have an IP rating of sweet fuck all, they'll panic at the first sign of moisture (i.e. rust out, resistance goes up, followed by current draw, followed by the fuse blowing, followed by throwing the corroded mess in the bin). Steal some driving lights off a car, some with decent refelectors, dichorics are shite.

remember i would still like to have them look like they were ment to be on the bike... if i had a second hand crashed streetfighter i would just get some foglights from super cheap auto...

regardless i will document my process and have before and after shots for all that would like to do the same...

more positive sugestions ideas welcome...

**AllanB** · 12th February 2010, 16:18

I agree that those lights will die mighty quickly on the bike. Supercheap (well my local one) actually has a few small spot lights that are tidy and could be discretely mounted for your intended purpose. If it all works out you can always look at making some fancy covers or what-ever to spruce them up.

A few cars have the same system you describe for cornering, some have even had lights that physically turn into the corner.

Eric would be proud of your idea.

**Drogen Omen** · 12th February 2010, 18:30

Originally Posted by AllanB

I agree that those lights will die mighty quickly on the bike. Supercheap (well my local one) actually has a few small spot lights that are tidy and could be discretely mounted for your intended purpose. If it all works out you can always look at making some fancy covers or what-ever to spruce them up.

A few cars have the same system you describe for cornering, some have even had lights that physically turn into the corner.

Eric would be proud of your idea.

thanks, i hope it comes out good.

are you guys saying that the light housing i have chosen is the crap or the halogen light?

going to repco and super cheap on the weekend so will look for other light fittings.

the lights i have already ordered i got at cost price through a friend so $40 for the 2 isnt a big loss.

**rapid van cleef** · 12th February 2010, 18:50

he must be a mod

**Drogen Omen** · 12th February 2010, 18:54

Originally Posted by rapid van cleef

he must be a mod

huh!!!

that doesn't help me...

**AllanB** · 12th February 2010, 21:11

I'm presuming they are a indoor light - thus problematic on a bike if ridden in the wet. But there are some pretty spunky outdoor ones - hopefully you've been supplied these. Halogen lights whack out a fair bit of the old bright stuff, you'd want a 50wt minimum. I do doubt if a 'home' styled one will offer enough length for a bike travelling at a bit of speed.

Another consideration is some form of easy isolation switch or plug for warrant times - disconnect and as they are not operating they won't be bothered with them.

Has it been done on any of the big touring rigs? Gold Wing, BMW etc?

**Coldrider** · 12th February 2010, 21:57

12v halogen lamps get verrrrrrry hot as well.

**LBD** · 12th February 2010, 23:10

Originally Posted by Drogen Omen

ok i have found the lights i'm gona use. here's some pics...

Or you may like to try a set of these with switch wiring and instructions.....Available from SWMotech imported by Darbi industries...

http://shop.sw-motech.com/lshop,show...erfer-kit,.htm

**Drogen Omen** · 14th February 2010, 07:51

Originally Posted by AllanB

I'm presuming they are a indoor light - thus problematic on a bike if ridden in the wet. But there are some pretty spunky outdoor ones - hopefully you've been supplied these. Halogen lights whack out a fair bit of the old bright stuff, you'd want a 50wt minimum. I do doubt if a 'home' styled one will offer enough length for a bike travelling at a bit of speed.

Another consideration is some form of easy isolation switch or plug for warrant times - disconnect and as they are not operating they won't be bothered with them.

Has it been done on any of the big touring rigs? Gold Wing, BMW etc?

there are specialist ones like these but are expensive.

the housings are indoor lights, but i will be modifying themto be waterproof and remove any vibration.

Originally Posted by Coldrider

12v halogen lamps get verrrrrrry hot as well.

the lights i have selected are vented very well and should get sufficient air flow.

Originally Posted by LBD

Or you may like to try a set of these with switch wiring and instructions.....Available from SWMotech imported by Darbi industries...

http://shop.sw-motech.com/lshop,show...erfer-kit,.htm

these are ones i looked at before but they are way too expensive.

so far i have spent.

$40 for 2 light fittings
$38 for the wires, relays, diodes, switches and wiring box.

Total $78

plus it gives me something to do on rainy day's...

**hmmmnz** · 14th February 2010, 18:19

im not a big fan of using diodes, as the buggers get hot, (as a spark i would say avoid them if you can)

you can make the wiring simpler if you dont use both the lights on together,

and even simpler if you use a main switch and then switch then a directional switch (down to 1 relay)

apparently the bike generates 494 watts peak, you just have to figure out how much of that is free

but this may be all moot if your changing system doesnt have a 100watts to spare,

**quickbuck** · 14th February 2010, 19:30

Okay,
Can't be bothered reading all the thread.... BUT when I'm cornering and need more light, I find I am on such an angle that the "PASS" Switch on the handle bar does the trick, unless the light is already on High Beam....
In fact the Pass Button actually sheds more light, as it operates both beams....

**Drogen Omen** · 14th February 2010, 19:57

Originally Posted by hmmmnz

im not a big fan of using diodes, as the buggers get hot, (as a spark i would say avoid them if you can)

you can make the wiring simpler if you dont use both the lights on together,

and even simpler if you use a main switch and then switch then a directional switch (down to 1 relay)

apparently the bike generates 494 watts peak, you just have to figure out how much of that is free

but this may be all moot if your changing system doesnt have a 100watts to spare,

i will talk to the electrical guys at my work and ask them about the Diodes and if them heating up is an issue.

can you give me a list of what you think i should do?

i have no idea what i am doing so need all the help you guys can give me.

Originally Posted by quickbuck

Okay,
Can't be bothered reading all the thread.... BUT when I'm cornering and need more light, I find I am on such an angle that the "PASS" Switch on the handle bar does the trick, unless the light is already on High Beam....
In fact the Pass Button actually sheds more light, as it operates both beams....

well i would do that but the headlights on my buell are inset and have no side bleed and makes no difference when i have tried it. i even went as far as to tape my passing switch on so both my lights were on all the time.

**quickbuck** · 14th February 2010, 20:15

Originally Posted by Drogen Omen

well i would do that but the headlights on my buell are inset and have no side bleed and makes no difference when i have tried it. i even went as far as to tape my passing switch on so both my lights were on all the time.

Ummm,
What I am saying is that "When Cornering" you actually need light to go UP in effect... Well, more like 45 degrees upwards......

All side bleed will give is a nice lighting up of the road you don't need to worry about/ Shouldn't be looking at, or won't be riding over in any case.....