Cornering light mod?

[Drogen Omen]

Ummm,
What I am saying is that "When Cornering" you actually need light to go UP in effect... Well, more like 45 degrees upwards......

All side bleed will give is a nice lighting up of the road you don't need to worry about/ Shouldn't be looking at, or won't be riding over in any case.....

yeah but having light bleed works with your periferal vision and gives you an idea of how close you are to the inside of the corner. it is also effective when you are going low.

[hmmmnz]

first decide how you are going to use the lights. do you really need them both to come on at 1 time??
do you want to use a directional switch (like indicator switch) or are you going to use a 4 pole twist switch,
you have to have a place where its easy to use other wise its useless,

im not saying you can't use diodes, i personally don't like them because they can get hot, alot of current passes through them ( eg i=p/v , 50/12 = 6 amps)

i have no problem doing the wiring for you if you want to ride out to houghton bay one night,

[Drogen Omen]

I think you might be looking at this wrong dude. If your standard headlights aint giving you what you need thats the first place to look for changes.

i was told that i would need to buy a hole new lighting unit as the Buell bulbs can not be changed. you can replace the bulbes when they blow but there will always only be one light on at a time.

i would like to have both headlights on at the same time and be able to switch them both from low to high beam. but thats another mod.

i can get brighter bulbes, but without side bleed and only a 45 degre angle of light there is no point.

[Drogen Omen]

first decide how you are going to use the lights. do you really need them both to come on at 1 time??
do you want to use a directional switch (like indicator switch) or are you going to use a 4 pole twist switch,
you have to have a place where its easy to use other wise its useless,

im not saying you can't use diodes, i personally don't like them because they can get hot, alot of current passes through them ( eg i=p/v , 50/12 = 6 amps)

i have no problem doing the wiring for you if you want to ride out to houghton bay one night,

ok i want to be able to have both of them off when i start the bike and then either have one or the other or both ON.

i have a little box to put the switches in and resin them in place, the box will fit into a space next to the indicator switch.

thanks for the offer mate, but i basicaly know nothing about my bike or electrics so want to do this and try to learn something about bikes other thean how to ride them...

will ask for help if i get stuck.

[FROSTY:Me]

Mon I dunno about your particular bike so I guess you may be right. I've had success in that situation with the bike on lo beam and mashin the pass light--the lo fills in the area close in. BUT if you're on a bike with headlight on the forks one downside is thsat the headlight points where you turn the steering so countersteering means the lights pointing to the outside of the bend

[hmmmnz]

ok i want to be able to have both of them off when i start the bike and then either have one or the other or both ON.

i have a little box to put the switches in and resin them in place, the box will fit into a space next to the indicator switch.

thanks for the offer mate, but i basicaly know nothing about my bike or electrics so want to do this and try to learn something about bikes other thean how to ride them...

will ask for help if i get stuck.

ok sweet, in that case your best and most reliable option is to follow the diagram i have drawn
(use 2x spst (single pole single throw) relays and 1x dpdt (double pole double throw) relay, and 1 x 4pst switch


or if you want to use 2 switches then you just need 2 spst relays, and 2 switches

[imdying]

remember i would still like to have them look like they were ment to be on the bike... if i had a second hand crashed streetfighter i would just get some foglights from super cheap auto...

Not all driving lights are ugly, have a look on eBay for a start (greater range than locally available). Surely they're not going to look any more out of place than something designed for a kitchen?

[Drogen Omen]

ok finaly have all the gear to start this little project later this week.

- 2x spst relays + blade fuse
- 2x waterproof switches
- 2x 2 meters of wire (Blue & red) extra for just in case i make a mistake... and I'm sure i will.
- 2x schottky barrier diodes
- 2x light fittings
- 2x 12v 50w halogen bulbs
- Small tube of Silicone Sealer
- 50cm x 50cm x2mm think clear Perspex
- Soldering Iron & Solder


2007 Buell XB12SS factory power specs
Electric
Battery (per Battery Council International Rating): Sealed lead acid, maintenance-free, 12V,12 amp/hour, 200 cca
Charging:494W peak, 38-amp, permanent magnet,3-phase alternator with solid-state regulator
Starting: 1.2 kW electric with solenoid shift starter motor engagement
Lights (as per country regulation): Headlamps(twin quartz halogen [H7])
Tail/Stop Lights: License Plate Light
Turn Signal Lights: 55-watt low beam, 55-watt high beam, 5W/21W, 10W manual canceling, 5W

[hmmmnz]

if you are using 2 switches you don't need the diodes

[Drogen Omen]

if you are using 2 switches you don't need the diodes

sweet thanks, have printed this off.

[CookMySock]

im not a big fan of using diodes, as the buggers get hot, (as a spark i would say avoid them if you can)

They are ok if you are just using them for the relay signal, but yeah not wise in the main circuit. Also it will be difficult to strain-relieve the tiny leads effectively - best way will be to solder them to something rigid nearby, such as the pins on the switch.

apparently the bike generates 494 watts peak, you just have to figure out how much of that is free

Not too much of a show stopper, provided the lights aren't left on and your battery is in good nick. You might be able to use a simple FET + RC timer circuit to auto cutout, if you can google one or get someone to draw it for you, but hey we are getting ultra-techie now.


Steve

[Pixie]

The indoor halogen lamps are unsuitable for anything that will be exposed to getting wet or bug spattered.The quartz envelope will go opaque from acid attack or crack from rapid cooling.

Sticking plastic in front of the dichroic will result in:
1. melted or blistered plastic or:
2. overheated lamp
3. or both

[Pixie]

im not a big fan of using diodes, as the buggers get hot, (as a spark i would say avoid them if you can)

you can make the wiring simpler if you dont use both the lights on together,

and even simpler if you use a main switch and then switch then a directional switch (down to 1 relay)

apparently the bike generates 494 watts peak, you just have to figure out how much of that is free


but this may be all moot if your changing system doesnt have a 100watts to spare,

Diodes in the coil circuits of relays will only be carrying milliamps.Why would they get hot?

[Pixie]

Jaycar have a 10 amp on/off/on toggle switch. Jaycar Cat No. ST-0576 $5.90
You can use that for 55 W lamps without any relays.
Splashproof hood for the switch is Jaycar Cat No. ST-0592 $3.50.
Relays are Jaycar Cat No. SY-4068 $9.90

The diagram has two circuits,one with relays,one without.

As for lamps.You can get LED alternatives for the Halogen lamps that fit the same housings and don't have the heat and durability disadvantages of Halogens.
Check out these Cat Nos. at http://www.jaycar.co.nz/
ZD-0320,ZD-0340,ZD-0346 None of these require more that 3W for a similar output to a 20W halogen.

[imdying]

You're correct, they won't.