Back brake issue.

**JMemonic** · 22nd February 2010, 19:23

Originally Posted by DangerousBastard

So what happens when the pads and the discs wear?

Steve

If the rotor is that badly worn on a bike that its more than about 5ml of fluid in the time you are doing your flush every two years there is more to worry about than a little fluid, you would want to get a little metallurgy done one the materials used to make the disc.

And if you are keeping that fluid at home chances are it wont be sealed in the container thus it would be absorbing water happily for you.

**quickbuck** · 22nd February 2010, 19:44

Originally Posted by paulmac

Sounds like it needs bleeding. Ring your local zuki dealer and ask for an estimate to do this. Should'nt cost too much. ie: under a hundy !

HOLY COW!
I'm going to start a Brake Bleeding Business in Auckland!
Will do both ends with fluid for half that!

Of course a Full Brake Service will cost a bit more... With pads and all....

**paulmac:Me** · 22nd February 2010, 20:52

Don't know or seen the bike so sweeping generalisation !! If I said $20 and they go to a shop and it costs 120 cause the pads are fucked then I look like a twat !! interweb thingy and all !! If they were in the naki then I'd tell em to come see me !!

**imdying** · 24th February 2010, 11:13

Shame tags are limited to 25 characters... we can't put 'People who correct obvious spelling mistakes after the OP has acknowledged it are stupid faggots with too much time on their hands, doubly so for idiots like Mon and Hitcher who didn't even add any useful advice'

If it works fine, but the pedal goes all the way down randomly, and there are no obvious fluid loss (i.e. no visible leaks, and the fluid level doesn't go down), then it is possible that you have a master cylinder that is bypassing internally.

The first thing you should do is rebleed it with fresh fluid, and see what happens.

Should that not correct the problem, then you need to isolate the problem by using a brake hose clamp on the hose when it happens next. If clamping the line up near the master doesn't make the pedal firm again, then your master cylinder needs a rebuild, if it does, then either you have not bled it correctly, of there is a surely a leak.

As master cylinder rebuild kit is fairly easy to fit if you have some fine pointed circlip pliers to remove the piston retaining circlip with, but if you get that far down the track come back for some more detail on how to do the job.

**imdying** · 24th February 2010, 11:15

Originally Posted by DangerousBastard

So what happens when the pads and the discs wear?

Braking systems are generally designed so that the volume of the reservoir is sufficient to allow for a fresh set of pads to wear fully. He is correct, you should never have to top up a brake fluid reservoir on an in service vehicle.

**CookMySock** · 24th February 2010, 13:23

Originally Posted by imdying

Braking systems are generally designed so that the volume of the reservoir is sufficient to allow for a fresh set of pads to wear fully. He is correct, you should never have to top up a brake fluid reservoir on an in service vehicle.

I see. Point taken and conceded. That might be a useful first-glance method of checking pad wear, unless some helpful person has topped it off.

I encourage people to work on rear brakes, as they are perfectly straight forward, and it's a little hard to get in trouble with them. I do worry in this instance though, as the OP seems to rely somewhat on them, rather than the primary front brake.

Steve

**imdying** · 24th February 2010, 13:50

Yeah for sure, if only you work on your bike, and you've run at least one set of pads down to have an idea of the pad wear to fluid level relationship, then it could be used as a useful wee indicator. Probably more so on a car where the pads are harder to see, pretty easy to get a visual on a bike pad

You are correct, they are very simple to work on, you can't go far wrong if you have access to the right tools and a little common sense

**sharky** · 24th February 2010, 19:23

PM me and I'll check it out for you if you like. Not sure where you are but I'm in Torbay.

**Pratz** · 24th February 2010, 20:51

Originally Posted by imdying

Yeah for sure, if only you work on your bike, and you've run at least one set of pads down to have an idea of the pad wear to fluid level relationship, then it could be used as a useful wee indicator. Probably more so on a car where the pads are harder to see, pretty easy to get a visual on a bike pad

You are correct, they are very simple to work on, you can't go far wrong if you have access to the right tools and a little common sense

"little common sense" funny, I wish I had a clue.

Originally Posted by sharky

PM me and I'll check it out for you if you like. Not sure where you are but I'm in Torbay.

thanks for volunteering to help man, a mate just offered to have a look at it. See what he says..hopefully its not a huge issue ay. cross fingers xx