"Roxanne's" Stripping For Winter

**RiderInBlack** · 18th June 2005, 21:43

Got the Swingarm, Wheel Rims and Clutch Cover Plate back today from ProCoat. They have done an awesome job

Bit tight putting the bearings back into the Swingarm, but have got it back on now. Will refit the rims and plate tomorrow.

Question for the Mec's here. If I have put new rings in the pistons but have not needed a rebore, have had a very slight bit taken off the head to relevel it, will I need to have the carbies retuned?? If so what would you recommend as to the best way to have this done?? I will nee to take the bike to Custom Chambers after I put her back together as the whole pipeworks is rotten and the cans have been rattling for quite sometime

I an think of getting the exuast system done in S/S and then getting ProCoat to do a ceramic powder coat inside and out. Would look at retuning then.

**RiderInBlack** · 19th June 2005, 14:08

Note to self:

If the item that is to be bead blasted and powdercoated has threads, make sure thatyou have the right thread tap as you may find the threads need retapping

Luck for me the home workshop had the right tap (8mm metric). It's the only metric tap we have here but (bloody lucky). I when to put the discs back on the front rim and found that the most of the retaining allen key bolts would not start properly. This was most likely due to some of the powdercoat getting in the thread holes, but could have been thread damage due to the thread not being protected when it was bead blasted (although I would think that ProCoat would have protected the thread). Carefully started the tap with my fingers before useing the tap handel. You have to be very careful doing this otherwise you end up cross-threading the old thread instead of just cleaning it (personally I find it much esaier to cut a new thread than clead an old damaged one, especially when you are dealling with aluminium).

**RiderInBlack** · 24th June 2005, 19:14

Well nearly all her bits. They found a spit in 1 of the 4 inlet boots that join the Carbs to the head. Replacements are coming from Japperland. 1 has arrive but there are 3 more to come.
Must take so pic's of her all in bits before putting her back together. REALLY should have taken pic's as I was stripping her (bit kinky but) to remind my where everything went

Now comes the hard part, putting her back together right

Have the Haynes Manual for her, plus Greg (Head Mech from Planet Honda) has given me a copy of head and block part of the Honda workshop manual even though I didn't ask for it. Thanks Greg

Greg has been helpful and patient with me giving this a go. Have got him to do the bits I dare not attempt. Like:
Removing and setting the values.
Checking the head and block for level. The head was a little out and got set to get releveled.
Checking the old and new rings for fit and refitting the pistons into the block. The block got sent to get honed for the new rings.
Splitting the new Camchain and feeding it into the Crankcase.
Have got all my parts through Planet Honda so I have a fair bit to pay them. Some of my moo-la should get to Greg's pay packet (so it should, he's work hard for it).

Have told myself that I'm not allowed to start putting back together until I've finnished my tax return

If I didn't I'd be down the road as soon as I could get her back together with the end results of Aunty Helen's Goons taking too much interest in my business

**RiderInBlack** · 28th June 2005, 21:15

Who else does a good job on pipes up here? Staintune does not make S/S pipeworks for the CBR1000F anymore (they stopped making them 2 years ago). New from Honda NZ standard (not S/S) pipework cost over $2000. I could import this from UK for about $1000 (150 pound for the pipes + frieght + duty + GST). I would still have to get 2 new cans as well. 1 after market can can set me back $500. I need 2! That's comes to around $2000 for the whole system, so if you know someone that can be trusted to do this work, I would really like to know them.
I think Custom Chambers said that they would make the pipeworks plus the 2 cans for around $2000. I will need to check that before mid-July as that is when I should have "Rox" ready for them. Custom Chambers needs my bike to make the pipe fit properly. Will Neptune or Cyclworks need the same? Where are they? I live in Whg so where I send "Rox" should be not further then Hamilton.
Do Cycleworks or Neptune make S/S pipeworks (I know they make cans)? I need the whole exhaust system from the outlet on the engine throught to and encluding the cans.

Really need help on this,

Doug

**riffer** · 28th June 2005, 22:42

I've seen a number of early 80s bikes like KZ1000, GSX1100 at Cycleworks with the full exhaust being done to them, so I'd say they do it.

Give Damon a call.

BTW great to read about your mission. I look forward to seeing pics of the finished product.

**badlieutenant** · 28th June 2005, 23:16

Im assuming your forks are the basic honda type (front)
Ive been thru a drama of fiddling with oil levels, preloads and oil types. If you ever fiqure out a way where all the manufacturers have a universal grading for fork oil let me know. I found thier were 10s and thier were 10s. And in the end the best oil Ive found was motul (at least for my old honda) sold as a heavy duty oil for older cartridge style forks. And it doesnt seem to have gone off like the others did.
Cheap option for rebuild of a standard honda rear shock - give this chap a ring gouden gizler (probably sp there) his number 09 236 9023. For $215 he rebuilt mine (including a vavle so that it can be regassed easily) and it works better than the new honda one I had. Just be sure and tell him what type of riding you intend doing, two up or single hardout he'll set it up for you (and how much you wiegh)

**badlieutenant** · 28th June 2005, 23:20

Originally Posted by riffer

I've seen a number of early 80s bikes like KZ1000, GSX1100 at Cycleworks with the full exhaust being done to them, so I'd say they do it.

Give Damon a call.

BTW great to read about your mission. I look forward to seeing pics of the finished product.

wat riffer said.

**RiderInBlack** · 29th June 2005, 19:45

Originally Posted by badlieutenant

Im assuming your forks are the basic honda type (front)
Ive been thru a drama of fiddling with oil levels, preloads and oil types. If you ever fiqure out a way where all the manufacturers have a universal grading for fork oil let me know. I found thier were 10s and thier were 10s. And in the end the best oil Ive found was motul (at least for my old honda) sold as a heavy duty oil for older cartridge style forks. And it doesnt seem to have gone off like the others did.

Thanks for reminding me BL. Had forgot about the changing the fork oil. Yep it's Motul 10 I was going to put in "Rox's" forks.

**RiderInBlack** · 6th July 2005, 21:28

Yep, slowly putting her back together now.

$2400 for engine parts and labour being paid to Planet Honda.
$226 for Powder Coating paid to Pro-Coat.
Still have $1600 to $2000 I'll need to pay to get new pipes and cans. Estimate from Custom Chambers goes as follows:
$600 per S/S can. I'll need 2 so thats $1200.
$400 - $600 for the pipes using steel for the 4 extactor pipes, going to a S/S collector with the standard 4 into 1 and out to 2 set-up.
Will get Pro Coat to ceramic coat these.

I've put the cams, camchain and camchain tensioner back in. Had fun getting the cams set right. Instruction went:
"Turn the crankshafty counterclockwise and align the index mark on rotor with the "T" mark on the crankcase."
Sweet ease enough. Look down at the the rotor and find 2 "index marks" on the rotor a mere mm or 2 apart

Which fu*king mark dudes? Talked to Planet Honda (PH) and found that they would have had the same problem. Greg (Head Mac @ PH) said the best bet was to find TDC for piston 4 using a rod going through an old spark plug and down into 4. Well there wasn't much difference between these 2 marks using that method, so I opted for the mark that was on the outter edge of the rotor (the other one was in a mm from the edge). Followed the book from there

I'll know if I've got it right when I try starting her again

Set the valve clearances. Had to alter a 10mm spanner for that (just as well we have more than one. Glad we have a gas torch in our workshop

Had to put some new bends in the spanner to get it to reach the valve lock nuts.
Put the cylinder head back on. Borrowed PH's 3-Bond sealant for that (thinks guy's).

Still have some bits to put back on the "Rox's" "heart" before putting it back into her chest.

Slow and steady and I'll make less mistakes. Have learnt now that it is better to stop if I'm getting frustrated than to carry on when working with motors. I do less damage that way. Would beleave that I learn that one for reading "Zen And The Art Of Motorbike Maintance ( even though that's not what the book is mainly about)!

Thanks Ron (Pritch008)

**John** · 6th July 2005, 21:50

Wow great news sounds like its getting back to its beast form!
Good on you for attacking the engine, cam alignment is so confusing - timing and all these crazy sprockets and numbers, I failed 5th form maths so anything more complexed that 1x1 really starts to stump me

..

Cant wait to see it when its done

(common! give us some pictures!)

**RiderInBlack** · 6th July 2005, 22:21

Originally Posted by John

Cant wait to see it when its done

(common! give us some pictures!)

She's still a bit "naked" at the moment

**John** · 6th July 2005, 22:35

wow, looks like your having alot of fun

keep up the good work

..

**RiderInBlack** · 7th July 2005, 20:08

Used to floods here. Thats why the house is on top of a hill. River come up but has not broke the banks as yet. It been good weather for getting "Roxanne" put back together (cann't shoe horses or help Pa on the farm in this)

Have got her heart back into her chest but haven't got the carbs in yet. Hoping I won't have to do much to the carbs as they have been balanced before by the shop. It will be a big learning curve for me if I have to rebalance them before she will start. Have charged her battery and have a heavy duty 12volt battery charged up on stand by to give her a little boost to get her going again. Still a bit to do yet, but I just cann't wait to here her motor running again.
Once she's back together, I'll take her to Custom Chambers to get the exaust system done. Then it will be shake down time to make sure she's upto doing Rustnuts' GC this year.

Doug

**RiderInBlack** · 9th July 2005, 18:36

God it was good to hear her breath again

Still have a coolant leak but

It's around where the coolant pipes joint. I'll have to strip that part tomorrow. Hope it is just a split in the coolant pipe and not the jointer (or anything else expendsive and hard to get).