Bucket rules (or lack, thereof)?

[gatch]

So I fabricated a new manifold today, it is a bit of a sharpish bend. BUT the carb now sits flattish and should work. Couldn't find the clutch cable retainer, so I made one. The wiring loom is about a 1/4 of its original size. Started on the rear brake but ran out of time. Ordered some chain and fitted that, turns out the sprockets are nicely lined up, chur.

Looks like the gear shifter will be good to hang straight of the motor, pointing backwards so will be "race pattern", all good there. Mounting the rear brake cylinder will be fun, I never use the back brake on the track but is a requirement, so on it goes. Am going to extend the front engine mount stud, to accept some crash bungs, to avoid damage to the engine cases when I bin it. Hopefully battery turns up tomorrow, might be able to mount all the wiring/coil/battery.

Watch this space.

[koba]

So I fabricated a new manifold today, it is a bit of a sharpish bend. BUT the carb now sits flattish and should work. Couldn't find the clutch cable retainer, so I made one. The wiring loom is about a 1/4 of its original size. Started on the rear brake but ran out of time. Ordered some chain and fitted that, turns out the sprockets are nicely lined up, chur.

Looks like the gear shifter will be good to hang straight of the motor, pointing backwards so will be "race pattern", all good there. Mounting the rear brake cylinder will be fun, I never use the back brake on the track but is a requirement, so on it goes. Am going to extend the front engine mount stud, to accept some crash bungs, to avoid damage to the engine cases when I bin it. Hopefully battery turns up tomorrow, might be able to mount all the wiring/coil/battery.

Watch this space.

Don't make those bungs too long, short is good - less leverage to destroy things then.

[gatch]

Don't make those bungs too long, short is good - less leverage to destroy things then.

Just you wait, I have an idea..

[F5 Dave]

I use the rear brake on occasion & don't care who knows it.

[gatch]

So, today I got some footpegs and mounts made up and fitted. The brake is now attached too. Looks agricultural but fuck it.

Not much big stuff left to do now, sub frame still needs to be properly welded and I need to source a whole swag of bolts that are of better fit etc. But I can get the welding (shoddily) done tomorrow, plus get bolts on monday.

It's looking like a motorbike now..

[gatch]

So, my bike is at home in the shed. All cables are hooked up, gas is plumbed and wiring is hooked up well enough for a test.

It has fuel, it has a good spark and it has air. But it doesn't even make a pop or a bang. I have no idea why.

Please throw some ideas at me. I need inspiration.

[Ocean1]

I need inspiration.

Spray an imperial shitload of CRC ezy-start all over the plug cap and surroundings. Leap on bike and kick vigorously.




Edit: sorry, thought you said incineration.

[bogan]

ignition timing? compression? jetting?

[gatch]

The cam timing was out one tooth and now it at least pops, a little mist coming out the exhaust, so there is hope yet. Still doesn't run though.

ignition timing? compression? jetting?

Timing is all good so far as I can tell. The points are connected to the cam via a tiny key way, so if the cam timing is right, the points are too.

Compression is good, it's a freshly bored cylinder with new piston and rings. Feels crisp as when I turn it over.

Jetting should be in the ball park, it's a stock motor, excusing only the exhaust.

[Ocean1]

Float level OK?

[bogan]

if you got compression, cam timing, and a decent well timed spark, really only the fickle carby left. Piss with a few setting there, get to know her a bit better, should get there! as Ocean1 says, float height is worth checking, piss round with fuel screw a bit, make sure choke isn't sticking, etc etc. Is it electric or kick start? if the later a fast bump start may see some good results

[gatch]

Float level OK?

if you got compression, cam timing, and a decent well timed spark, really only the fickle carby left. Piss with a few setting there, get to know her a bit better, should get there! as Ocean1 says, float height is worth checking, piss round with fuel screw a bit, make sure choke isn't sticking, etc etc. Is it electric or kick start? if the later a fast bump start may see some good results

I'm not entirely savvy on how to determine the correct float height. The carb does sit on a slight angle, maybe 5 degrees or so from horizontal. Otherwise the float height would be the same as it was when it was running last (I bought he motor in pieces and have assembled it myself.......)

The choke is just a wee lever on the side of the carb, have tried it in all 3 positions and it seems to make no difference.

It has no starter motor, or kick starter shaft. I left the starter shaft out as it weighs around 2 kg.. So I have been tried to bump start it in the drive way.

I'd kill for a set of rollers right now ha.

[Ocean1]

New manifold. If that's got even a small gap somewhere it'll produce those symptoms.

If the beast's mechanically good and the spark's healthy then it's fuel. Pound to a pinch of shit it's either a vacuum leak or a blocked jet.

What's the carb?

[Henk]

Don't assume that the float level is right just because you haven't played with it.
Michelle bought a DT125 years ago that was supposed to be a runner that had the float level so far out that there was only ever 5mm of fuel in the bowl, max, fixed that and away she went.

[Ocean1]

If it's the typical Mikuni the float level will be 20mm.
Drop the float bowl and gently lift the float up until the valve tops out, (did I say gently?) Measure from the bottom of the floats to the bowl mount face. Bend the wee tab that bears on the valve to change it.

From memory the idle circuit can fuck you up a bit. Take the adjustment screw out and blow the hole out, screw it back in again until it bottoms out. Anywhere between 2 and 3 turns out should work.