Thanks guys, she's alive again. It was corroded and stuck inside the motor. Maybe Ive been a bit liberal with the water blaster. The manual is great!
Thanks guys, she's alive again. It was corroded and stuck inside the motor. Maybe Ive been a bit liberal with the water blaster. The manual is great!
Thread dredge. Our DR650SE has just suffered the same problem. Wouldn't start on Friday to go on the Lower North Island Adventure ride so I had to take my trusty Honda instead.
Our DR has spent its whole life doing nothing more than sealed or gravel roads and I never use a waterblaster on any of our bikes.
Monday I took the starter off and sure enough it is all corroded inside and the brushes are stuck within the holders on the backing plate. NordieBoy mentioned a $40 fix those years back. The kit today is closer to $70 bought through the local dealer but it does the trick.
The real issue with these is the flat profile rubber rings that are fitted to the body of the starter just squeeze out of the groove over time and water can leak in.
Today putting the new rubbers on, one squeezed out in about 30 minutes, so I took them off and are going with just black silicone gasket maker and sealant - I used JB Weld brand bought from Mitre 10. I'm letting the goo set and will fit it back to the bike tomorrow - sealant says give it 24 hours to set.
This is a good link to follow to do the job. Funny though it doesn't mention how hard it is to keep the rubber seals in place on the body of the starter. http://justdr650.com/starter-motor.php
See the pics - 1: The blimmin mess full of corrosion. 2: The freshly assembled version ready to go back on tomorrow.
Cheers
Merv
I cut and shortened the o-rings. SuperGlue the ends back together.
To check if its the solenoid join the two main terminals with a screwdriver or similar metal bar, if the starter spins its the solenoid if not you are sending voltage directly to the starter and if its not turning its likely that. you can then put 12v direct to the stater using a car jump lead to test if its the starter.
sounds like the starter motor though , rebuild kits on Trade me for $35 and solenoids for $30.
I have a 1995 DR650 and its blown through about 4 starter solenoids. (3 presumably aftermarket and 1 genuine suzuki part which was supposedly higher rated than needed.)
Its now blown out the 4th one. I sent it in to coleman suzuki who changed some of the wire attachments and installed the supposedly high rated suzuki brand but didn't seem to know what the issue was that was causing this
It starts just fine when I jump the solenoid poles
Any ideas what the issue could be??
For a great bluetooth headset at a cheap price go to www.nzseller.webs.com or email raoul1978@gmail.com.
I'm guessing the solenoid activation circuit is something like ; battery side of starter motor -> solenoid coil ->start button -> ground. (ignition switch will be in there somewhere) so pressing the button completes the circuit, solenoid energizes and becomes a magnet, which operates the armature and bridges the starter motor terminals. That there have been four failed solenoids suggests that the fault lies elsewhere. The current required to operate the solenoid is quite low, could be as simple as really dirty contacts at the starter button.
Edit - looks like the clutch switch and NSU switch are also involved
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
wiring diagram
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
For a great bluetooth headset at a cheap price go to www.nzseller.webs.com or email raoul1978@gmail.com.
might be worth looking at the diode.... AC & DC current could be coming in contact with each other
the start button has AC current going though it but the starter uses DC current..
..
Pete
90% of all Harleys built are still on the road... The other 10% made it back home...
Ducati... Makeing riders into mechaincs since 1964...
Sorry I misread the wiring diagram. The starter switch provides 12v (not ground) to the solenoid coil, which then goes to ground via the black w/ white tracer wire
You should be able to prove the solenoid is ok by putting 12V on the yellow w/ green tracer wire that goes via the clutch lever switch to the solenoid.
The NSU (located behind the clutch and with a history of coming loose) has a diode which is involved: From wiring diagram: Neutral switch, AKA NSU -inside the engine case behind the clutch basket. When witch is closed (in N) it grounds the diode above which allows power to flow through both the N light and the side stand relay - closing the relay, allowing power to flow to kill switch , which powers the starter button and CDI unit) So problem could be NSU and could be side stand relay as well.
I dont think dirty contacts could blow the solenoid - it's just a relay by another name. A low current circuit that energises a coil, making it a magnet. the magnet armature moves and joins two contacts which can carry a high current. Crud inside the solenoid could prevent the armature from moving.
Disclaimer: its a DR650 - Suzuki has its own interpretation of how electricity works. Believe me; I have an early '80s GS);-)
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
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