My KTM 690 Adventure

[.chris]

excuse my ignorance but wouldnt it be easier to get a 690adventurer than modifying the enduro

For the same reason you did not buy a 2010 XR650R :P

The enduro ticks quite a few of the right boxes for an adventure bike.
I think if they had made the tank just a big larger (up to 18l at least)
Added a bit more structure to the rear subframe/tank setup (for luggage and extra fuel weight)
Decent front faring to keep the wind off
A wider more comfortable seat they would have a pretty decent 690ADV.
The 5000km service is not too bad, easy enough to do the 5000km ones yourself, the 10,000 need a dealer.

[Night Falcon]

Warewolf posted some data a few weeks back, when we were discussing the effect of suspension adjustments. The graphs he posted also had a second curve set which showed the effect of adding a 2" lowering link. (I haven't been able to figure out how to copy it into this post)

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...-a-DR650/page2

post number 26

Basically, it kinda screwed up the rising rate action of the rear linkage, especially near full compression.
Nothing is free it seems.
Personally, I think I would rather have the handling and put up with the height, but hey, a 1" link may not make that much difference.

All very interesting stuff!! I have done plenty of track and trail work over the years so I know all about bottoming out rear and front shocks. Shock absorbsion is a factor of weight and momentum and as i don't plan to be doing anything that will overly stress the suspenders the reduced absorbtion should not be a problem. I guess if it does become an issue I can always re-fit the stock link....as you rightly point out, the 1inch link may not be too detrimental...I guess I'll find out though!!

[Night Falcon]

Who are the people doing the work on the seat? I would like to get some adjustments done to my corbin (they made it too long and I can't open the gas cap without releasing the seat)

Where abouts are you located?
If you are localish I would be happy to let you try the corbin as it may be a good guide for the work on your seat, and I would be interested to see if it would fit under the Safari tank.

Charmin motor trimers in Napier...you can check out their web just google them. You probably have someone in your area who could do the mods for you...it must be a pain in the azzzzzzz takin the seat off every time you gas up!

[dino3310]

For the same reason you did not buy a 2010 XR650R :P
.

cause i was broke.

R they hard to get or really expensive.

[Padmei]

Noticed on Umopoms one yesterday that there's nothing to grab hold of to lift the rear end if it gets stuck. Anyways around that? (apart from not getting stuck - sorry someone would have stated the obvious)

[.chris]

Noticed on Umopoms one yesterday that there's nothing to grab hold of to lift the rear end if it gets stuck. Anyways around that? (apart from not getting stuck - sorry someone would have stated the obvious)

They do come with hand rails on the back if you want them fitted, or like mine has a rear rack which can be used as a getting unstuck handle.

R they hard to get or really expensive.

Dino, they never made them. There is no such model as a 690 Adventure, the 640 Adventure was the last LC4 Adventure they made.

[warewolf]

I watch with interest.

This should be interesting...couple of questions, why the lowering links (the 690 isn't tall) and why the low front guard? This is coming from someone who threw away the low front guard on the 640 Adventure and uses all the suspension movement available.

What he said. Many people with low-guard Adventures retrofit the Enduro high guard, but each to his own. Watch you don't run out of clearance at full compression; you have to have travel + the thickness of the guard + the gap between tyre and guard. DAMHIK. And you probably won't be able to drop the triples 1" down the forks to maintain geometry to match the lowering links.

All very interesting stuff!! I have done plenty of track and trail work over the years so I know all about bottoming out rear and front shocks. Shock absorbsion is a factor of weight and momentum and as i don't plan to be doing anything that will overly stress the suspenders the reduced absorbtion should not be a problem. I guess if it does become an issue I can always re-fit the stock link....as you rightly point out, the 1inch link may not be too detrimental...I guess I'll find out though!!

It's not just _at_ full compression that is a problem, but every bump you hit, and _getting_ to full compression. The shock's damping is designed for the travel based on the standard links - change the linkage geometry and it all turns to shit, IMHO. I was using 1 1/8" links, and the performance was abysmal. Choppy, horrible, under-sprung and and poorly-damped ride, all from changing the linkage. And don't forget, the linkage doesn't change the travel, so check that you have 1" extra clearance to the undertail at full compression vs the standard link.

In summary: lowering links as a cure are far worse than duck's disease itself.

This is the chart:

The 2" links' difference is shown with the blue line starting at only -100mm. It's line should extend to the 200mm point, but unfortunately with very little provocation it slams into the undertail at 150mm.

But hey, you've bought 'em, give it a whirl, report back here

PS Reading the Koubalink site, you're a braver man than me:

We have also shortened the the "KTM8" link slightly so as not to allow the tire to bottom on the fuel tank as easily. The tire still may touch if bottomed very hard and/or are running the large knobby tires with this "KTM8-2" link.

Note that per the chart, lowering links make bottoming very hard a reality.

[Woody2]

For the same reason you did not buy a 2010 XR650R :P

The enduro ticks quite a few of the right boxes for an adventure bike.
I think if they had made the tank just a big larger (up to 18l at least)
Added a bit more structure to the rear subframe/tank setup (for luggage and extra fuel weight)
Decent front faring to keep the wind off
A wider more comfortable seat they would have a pretty decent 690ADV.
The 5000km service is not too bad, easy enough to do the 5000km ones yourself, the 10,000 need a dealer.

I brought the aftermarket KTM screen for mine, helps keep the wind at bay. I may at some stage buy the touratech luggage rack which has the pillion pegs as well. Looks way stronger than the factory rack. Haven't worked out what do to regarding the seat yet!

[Bass]

I watch with interest.

PS Reading the Koubalink site, you're a braver man than me:
Note that per the chart, lowering links make bottoming very hard a reality.

That's pretty much what I thought, but I didn't want to kill the man's enthusiasm and he might still get lucky.

I've always thought the DR system of having a second set of holes in the bottom clevis for lowering, was a good idea as it doesn't change the geometry much. Pity it's a crap shock in the first place.

[Night Falcon]

That's pretty much what I thought, but I didn't want to kill the man's enthusiasm and he might still get lucky.

I've always thought the DR system of having a second set of holes in the bottom clevis for lowering, was a good idea as it doesn't change the geometry much. Pity it's a crap shock in the first place.

Thanks for your comments...I have sent a copy of your thoughts to the technician at Koobalink for thier comments. I donot intend to compromise on safety/handling to the extent you have described. We will see what they have to say...meanwhile back to build.

Checked out the seat adjustments this morning and it looks great. The Guys at Charmins really no their stuff. I should have the seat back tommorow so if i get time will put shom pictures up for you. I am also making some brackets that will allow me to mount a couple of top box options; one for touring and a smaller one for round town.


Cheers, Night Falcon

[Bass]

Thanks for your comments...I have sent a copy of your thoughts to the technician at Koobalink for thier comments. I donot intend to compromise on safety/handling to the extent you have described. We will see what they have to say...

Good call but remember that they have a vested interest.
Let me say that it's a great project you have taken on and I think there are many out here looking to see how it turns out. However, I think that is all the more reason that we should help you succeed if we have anything useful to add.

Everything that follows should be tempered by the thought that it is a 1" link that you have and that the data that Colin posted is for a 2" link. We also need to remember that changing the link is not a major and so neither is changing it back.
Having said that, the chart that Colin posted shows a linkage multiplication factor for a standard link that goes from about 0.6 to about 4.2.
In contrast, with the link fitted, it goes from about 0.6 to around 1.7.
That's a big change. It would lead to an undersprung and underdamped situation especially nearing full compression.
However, because of the longer link, the apparent axle weight comes down and so the change in the load on the spring and damper is not as pronounced as it might at first appear
Consequently, you may still be in with a 1" link and so the "suck it and see" policy is still a sensible one.

[ducatijim]

I think I'll just crawl back under me rock.............................................. ..

[warewolf]

I have sent a copy of your thoughts to the technician at Koobalink for thier comments.

They might point you back to their FAQs, esp. point 7(?).

Regardless of any theoretical hows whys & wherefores, I rode the 1 1/8" links and learnt first hand they were best avoided. Give them a go, but maybe after you are settled in with the bike, put the originals back on for a while to compare.

Dr Robert also has some thoughts on the matter, but he also has a vested interest. However, I agree wholeheartedly with him: it is better to pay for the shock to be modified (which will probably work better than OEM anyway) than it is to pay for lowering links that ruin the suspension action.

Righto, back to the shed and on with it Mr Falcon

[dino3310]

They do come with hand rails on the back if you want them fitted, or like mine has a rear rack which can be used as a getting unstuck handle.


Dino, they never made them. There is no such model as a 690 Adventure, the 640 Adventure was the last LC4 Adventure they made.

bugga thats a shame, nice bike too.. cheers for clearing that up for me

[Night Falcon]

Comments from the man himself.....Norm Kouba.

Dear Night Falcon,
We had some problems with the first link we built for the 690's that lowered the rear a full two inches, non-aggressive lighter riders liked them fine, but the more aggressive riders or ones that wanted to ride double were bottoming the tire into the underside of the tank. Since then we have started building the 1" and 1 5/8" links and have not had the problem with the tire rubbing the tank. Not to say that if a rider bottoms the rear hard enough that you cannot put a rubber mark on the underside of the tank but that is pretty much the case with most bikes as the neoprene stop on the shock makes up for the different riders and allows for a 3-4 inch fender clearance when it hits the stop. To be sure on how much clearance you have, one can remove the spring from the rear shock, reinstall the shock on the bike and raise the rear wheel until the weight of the bike is resting on the neoprene shock stop. You'll find that with the stock link you will have 3-4" clearance to the fender. The longer links are cutting into that clearance margin but should not be a concern especially with the 1" lowering links. If you cycle the shock thru its stroke with both the stock link and KoubaLink you will find you have slightly more travel with the longer links than with the stock links. All motorcycle mfgs that I am aware of advertise the total travel as if that neoprene shock stop is removed, thus showing approx 2-4" more travel than they actually have. I'm not sure what bike is referenced below but it looks similar to the charts for the Suzuki DR or DRZ. If that is the case, we recommended a heavier rear spring for those to make up for the added leverage of the longer links. You should not need a heavier rear spring on the 690 with the longer links unless you are carrying a lot of weight or are super aggressive. Thanks for your inquiry and please let us know if we can help with anything.
Norm