Chch Weds Maintenance Evenings 2010

**maxf** · 26th August 2010, 22:04

Originally Posted by cruza

I just press the starter button , check

Yeah, reading this I immediately thought of Star Trek and them checking if someone had ejected the warp core or not, cos they might have missed it...? I'm a sick puppy, I know.

(Can you get an ejector button for your battery? I've been tailgated by a couple of trucks I'd have liked to give a nice "gift" to...)

Also - cross posting for those that don't read the Sat Rides thread...

1) Save yourself from some more Govt. sponsored SPAM ... As of 1 November 2010, a new law comes into effect which allows third parties (authorised by the Ministry of Transport) access to your name and address details via your vehicle registration plates. Click on the link below to opt out , and send this to anyone who values their privacy

https://transact.nzta.govt.nz/transa...ess/entry.aspx

2) Show off your thrash curves... Check out your kms/yr curves on the current (or old) vehicles at http://www.carjam.co.nz - the general details are free, you only get to pay for the extras.

Hope you all have some fun...

**maxf** · 26th August 2010, 22:54

Originally Posted by KiwiPhoenix

MaxF: mine looks more like this http://newzealand.rs-online.com/web/...94&cm_vc=av_nz

We'll see how it goes on Sunday!

No it's not... that's the type/model I've got in the BMW

... have to have a look on Sun; did have a look at Repco today and they don't seem to have any bike-size batts in any more, wondering if they've dropped the line, they do seem to be trying to sell more GPS units than anything else nowadays!

**robertvi** · 26th August 2010, 23:54

Originally Posted by maxf

1) Save yourself from some more Govt. sponsored SPAM ... As of 1 November 2010, a new law comes into effect which allows third parties (authorised by the Ministry of Transport) access to your name and address details via your vehicle registration plates. Click on the link below to opt out , and send this to anyone who values their privacy

https://transact.nzta.govt.nz/transa...ess/entry.aspx

https://transact.nzta.govt.nz/Error/UnknownError.aspx
An error has occurred.
Sorry, we are unable to process your transaction. Please try again later. If you continue to receive this message, you need to go to an NZ Transport Agency agent to lodge your application.

it's a conspiracy I tell you!

**willytheekid** · 27th August 2010, 00:07

Ohh god batteries!...don't get me started

BOTH! of mine have died due to winter (and age), replacement cost......$154 EACH! ($308 for two...sob)..and thats the cheapest I can find.
Can you buy reconditioned batteries for bikes?? (I just can't believe the cost of them nowdays).

**neels** · 27th August 2010, 08:22

Originally Posted by willytheekid

Ohh god batteries!...don't get me started

BOTH! of mine have died due to winter (and age), replacement cost......$154 EACH! ($308 for two...sob)..and thats the cheapest I can find.
Can you buy reconditioned batteries for bikes?? (I just can't believe the cost of them nowdays).

Have you gone and leaned over the counter at the Century Yuasa shop in Carlyle street? The guys there can do some pretty good deals if you ask them nicely, might as well cut out the middle man if you can.....

**maxf** · 27th August 2010, 13:45

Originally Posted by willytheekid

Ohh god batteries!...don't get me started

BOTH! of mine have died due to winter (and age), replacement cost......$154 EACH! ($308 for two...sob)..and thats the cheapest I can find.
Can you buy reconditioned batteries for bikes?? (I just can't believe the cost of them nowdays).

Yeah I know, that's how I got onto the conversation with KP - that some of the computer UPS batteries will fit and run for bikes (with due care in the choosing) - and they're usually "better" - sealed, maint free, slower self-discharge, can install in any direction but upside down and often glass mat too so less sulphation... My DIAMEC 18ah was a swap for the BMW batt & over $100 saved, have had it in for over 4yrs now of daily use.

Only other thing is to use a "battery tender" - another thing to show KP, managed to get one SH of TM for $50, only 2A but that's good. Dunno if I'd want one new tho, they seem to have suddenly gotten a bit pretentiously pricey at ~$150 starting now it seems...

Apart from that - use the bike more, don't deep discharge (leave sitting in winter with parasitic loads eg clocks, alarms) and maybe look at one of the "sulpahtion stop" additives (if you dare, some could well be snake oil). And NEVER let the water levels drop.

Good luck??

**cruza** · 27th August 2010, 17:46

emoto ones seem to be good to from what i hear , and very well priced

**cruza** · 27th August 2010, 17:48

Originally Posted by neels

Have you gone and leaned over the counter at the Century Yuasa shop in Carlyle street? The guys there can do some pretty good deals if you ask them nicely, might as well cut out the middle man if you can.....

Will they sell direct ? ...on the quiet

**willytheekid** · 27th August 2010, 20:15

Originally Posted by neels

Have you gone and leaned over the counter at the Century Yuasa shop in Carlyle street? The guys there can do some pretty good deals if you ask them nicely, might as well cut out the middle man if you can.....

Great idea! thanks for the info, will go there on tues

(days off tues-wens)

**willytheekid** · 27th August 2010, 20:31

Originally Posted by maxf

Yeah I know, that's how I got onto the conversation with KP - that some of the computer UPS batteries will fit and run for bikes (with due care in the choosing) - and they're usually "better" - sealed, maint free, slower self-discharge, can install in any direction but upside down and often glass mat too so less sulphation... My DIAMEC 18ah was a swap for the BMW batt & over $100 saved, have had it in for over 4yrs now of daily use.

Only other thing is to use a "battery tender" - another thing to show KP, managed to get one SH of TM for $50, only 2A but that's good. Dunno if I'd want one new tho, they seem to have suddenly gotten a bit pretentiously pricey at ~$150 starting now it seems...

Apart from that - use the bike more, don't deep discharge (leave sitting in winter with parasitic loads eg clocks, alarms) and maybe look at one of the "sulpahtion stop" additives (if you dare, some could well be snake oil). And NEVER let the water levels drop.

Good luck??

Cheers, But being a guzzi the batteries are "odd" -20amp, so I wouldn't risk a UPS battery-she's not a BMW ! <(built to last...its delicate Italian electrics were dealing with lol...that Ive spent ALOT of time and money fixing the previous owners "butchery")
A battery tender....now thats a great idea! (high drain on this bugger when cranking her over)
As for "use the bike more"

she's my everyday transport....no pampering here! lol
Just had her off the road lately getting the last of the major work done to her (carby rebuild...a very costly FCR carby rebuild

)
Many thanks for the help and ideas...knew someone on here would have a sugestion in the right direction.
If the carbys and tune go well on tues, will pop along on wens night....as long as the "phat Girl" is behaving lol.

**maxf** · 29th August 2010, 17:37

Originally Posted by willytheekid

Many thanks for the help and ideas...knew someone on here would have a sugestion in the right direction.
If the carbys and tune go well on tues, will pop along on wens night....as long as the "phat Girl" is behaving lol.

Well, more ideas after having a play with an "interloper" (you know who you are, Cupcake

):

- check your idle speed; sounds dopey but changing the idle up about 100 or so RPM (by ear) took the batt voltage from 12.6 to 14v - obviously there's some sort of cut-in threshold in this design so yours may vary, but probably worth checking; at least now this bike theorecally won't be flattenning the little battery every time it goes to idle.

- check earth return for voltage drop too; this fine steed had ~0.01v between crankcase and battery -ve (big wire for starter current) but ~.6v between batt -ve and frame with usual loads on (wimpy earth line into the loom with a connector, and nothing but friction between the crankcase and frame I guess). Extra ground return from batt -ve post to a good chassis/frame earth point (in this case, the case of the alternator regulator cos it was convenient!) got frame drop down to less than .02v.

It might still be that the battery is a basket case & just not up to delivering the amps when needed, but I'll be preachy and also say the obvious - always check the charging system and bits around the batt when it's being replaced (or contemplated for replacement) - batt will always look "soft" if it's not getting a charge.

Back to the nap.