Tyga / NSR300 anyone?

[Dodgy]

Hi there

I have acquired a MC28 and have got the Tyga pipes and reed cage coming.

Has anyone here done the 300 kit? If s, what else did you do? I am currently thinking along the lines of boring out the carbs as well (or fit RS250 ones)


cheers

[sil3nt]

Funny you should mention this when i just finished reading http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...nda-NSR300R-SP!

[McWild]

Was gonna say, that's pretty good timing man.

[Billy]

Got a pair of RS 250 carbs here if your keen,You could have them for $250.00 with the jet /needle kit.PM me if you want them,I have put one of these together before and there are a few little tricks

[{.bLanK}G_o_D]

Nothing but love for the Tyga 300 kit here.
I can't tell you how much extra power it will give you as I have done all the mods all at once. But from what I have read it will only raise your over all horsepower by several HP, but the extra torque gives a noticeable gain in the midrange which is very handy.

[Dodgy]

Thanks guys, PM sent. When you put the barrels in, did you carve up the cases to match, or carve the barrels to match the cases? I understand that peak will not go up much, especially with standard carbs - or have you bored or replaced them?

[{.bLanK}G_o_D]

Thanks guys, PM sent. When you put the barrels in, did you carve up the cases to match, or carve the barrels to match the cases? I understand that peak will not go up much, especially with standard carbs - or have you bored or replaced them?

No, Tyga do that, you buy the barrels ready to bolt onto a NSR250 crankcase.
Honestly, if it's a road bike, I wouldn't bother with the carbs. The 300cc kit gives you assloads of midrange. If you do any more mods than what I have done to mine, you will compromise too much reliability.

[satchriossi]

hey bro, i've got a fully tyga'd 300 with all the trimmings.

Your MC28 may still have most of its standard restriction. Have you got the HRC ignition card? I also seem to remember you need an MC21 flywheel aswell as race pipes to get full power.

You also have to rejet your carbs to suit any changes or YOU WILL SEIZE IT.

Your best bet is to join NSR-World.com and post your questions there - or use the search function on there to bring up an endless supply of wisdom. There are folks on there who have used RS barrels and heads - though it doesn't seem to be worth the effort and cost. The specific HRC F3 parts for the NSR are the way forward for max performance.

I could go on and on - i recommend you introduce yourself on the NSR forum and ask the Qs there.

[motogp1]

Hi there, Great to see another person with great taste!

I have a Repsol MC28 SP and as I use this as a road bike (as opposed to a racebike) I have performed the following mods with great success:

Harc Pro pipes and chambers
Tyga reed blocks and valves
Hrc replica airbox lid
Motoair airfilter
MC21 flywheel
careful jetting

The bike is smooth right through the range and is a pleasure to ride in 'normal' and 'nutter' modes.

I have chosen not to pursue an HRC card as this disables the speedo, indicators etc as these are intended for race use. I am considering a 300cc kit as I ride with the Rothmans 300cc SP here in Chch and there is no doubt it has very strong mid-range.

I work in the bike industry and the first question I usually ask people who want their bikes to go faster is:

What tire pressures are you running right now?

You'd be surprised how few actually know! A well sorted bike with good tyres, serviced suspension, greased linkages and bearings etc will always go better that a poorly maintained hotrod.

I have loads of spares as this is NSR number 13 or 14 for me so if you need anything.....

[Dodgy]

Sweet!

What is the deal with the HRC airbox lid? I was looking at something like that, and then I saw on NSR world that drilling 4x 1" holes seems to be the way to go?

[satchriossi]

I've not seen an HRC 'lid' but there is an HRC shroud for the carbs if you're running open carb or foam pod filters. I've got a carbon fibre replica of the HRC carb shroud (so does Glen Mason, who races an MC21SE in the VMCC winter series - i run open carbs, whilst Glen runs foam pods). This works with HRC's carb setup recommendations for use with their jet kit (which also recommends removal of the 2T pump), which is all aimed at making an F3 racer out of your NSR. For road use you're probably best off modifying the standard airbox lid so you can retain the standard filter (as most people do). Some drill holes as you say, whilst others remove the lid altogether and wire the filter in place so it can't move. If you search through the NSR-world forums you'll find other solutions too.

There's a Jha airbox lid with these crazy trumpets on it which is designed to improve flow and still keep the standard filter.

Motogp1; hey bro, how long has your friend been running his 300 for? Did he fit the wiseco pistons or is he still on the 'standard' cast 300 pistons?

[onearmedbandit]

Motogp1; hey bro, how long has your friend been running his 300 for? Did he fit the wiseco pistons or is he still on the 'standard' cast 300 pistons?

The 300 belongs to {.blanK}G_o_D in the posts above. I'm sure he'll be along to answer your questions soon enough, but he's had it back from the shop for about 3wks now and I understand it's running NSR150 pistons.

[{.bLanK}G_o_D]

Motogp1; hey bro, how long has your friend been running his 300 for? Did he fit the wiseco pistons or is he still on the 'standard' cast 300 pistons?

I have had the bike back now for around 3-4 weeks. No I didn't get the wiseco pistons or VHM heads. I had already spent thousands more than I intended to. Defiantly no regrets. She's a weapon.

[satchriossi]

I have had the bike back now for around 3-4 weeks. No I didn't get the wiseco pistons or VHM heads. I had already spent thousands more than I intended to. Defiantly no regrets. She's a weapon.

Reason i ask bro is because my cast pistons lasted 3 trackdays before the lower piston's skirt shattered on the exhuast side. The upper piston has a big old crack formed in the same place and therefore wasn't far from breaking apart either. Be aware of them if you thrash your motor often. You should be able to see any cracks by taking the exhuasts off and looking up the port whilst turning the engine over slowly by hand. It'd be worth checking every so often. It may save you having to get the crank out to clean all the aluminium particles out of the main bearings like i'm having to...

Failure has so far been put down to too much piston to bore clearance, though i expect the revs the NSR300 motor gets up to (as much as 13,000 in my case) are partly to blame - the pistons are sourced by Tyga from the KRX150 Kawasaki motor, which im guessing doesnt rev anywhere near that high. So its perhaps less suprising that the piston cant handle the abuse for too long before obliterating.

Biggest problem for me now is that Wiseco have discontinued the forged piston they do for that engine....

[imdying]

Thanks a lot for the information man. Piston failure seems to be a common theme for the NSR300 after a bit of rape.