Diesel oil engine flush?

[avgas]

Using diesel oil in an motorbike engine is black magic.
As is running ethanol mix.......
Fricken voodoo.
Hell riding a motorbike with 100hp is INSANE according to some here.
So clearly KB members are all knowing and all seeing.

My 2c, done it, works good - trick is to only mildly flush / run. Don't do more than 50km on the stuff (depending on the engine - some I would only idle the stuff for 30 seconds then drain).
Works really good on small block japa's who collect stuff in the smallest nooks. Especially tired old engines.

However don't be a knob about it - I told my friend, he put new filter in, then put diesel oil in and when I came to drain the diesel oil from it for him, he didn't under-stand why I threw out the filter and asked him for a new one........he said it was new, I replied he had just stuffed it and should have left the old one in.

[avgas]

OMG.........Why do people think they know it all to the point of discarding manufacturer recommendations and Oil companies advise.

You may be pleasantly surprised to what the pump manufacturers state in regards to not flushing during service........ However sometimes not all information trickles down into the lowly motorbike user guide......

[Flip]

Bike magazine ran an kawasaki 600,on the rev limiter,with no oil or coolant in it to see how long it would last.
It ran till the carbon can caught fire and they had to stop it.It didn't actually seize.
I think putting anything in the engine is not going to kill the engine instantly.
Why don't you use Caltex Delo 400 multigrade as your regular oil? lots of people do this.

The diesel has a couple of problems. Firstly new low sulphur diesel is a crap lubricant. When it is cold it’s a bad lubricant hot it is as thin as water and looses any ability to lubricate.

Fuel dilution usually damages the cam followers on modern motors first. The thin hard facing on the follower needs a good strong oil film to keep it off the nice relatively soft cam shaft. The moment the cam touches the follower well it’s the beginning of the end for these parts.

I do run a mixed fleet lube in almost all my vehicles. The Valvolene 15w40 is CI/SL oil so it is a dam good quality lubricant, it’s relatively low cost and it's available locally in 10 and 20 litre containers. My opinion is well good fresh oil is my friend.

I have flushed a few vintage motors out will all sorts of things from Whyns motor flushing stuff to hydraulic oil. But these were old low tek probably half stuffed motors that were full of sludge and we were trying to get them going after they had been sitting for decades. You should never have to flush a modern motor that is in service. There is nothing in the sump that shouldn’t be there already, and the last little bit of dirty oil is of no importance.

IMHO if you want to put fuel into the sump of your Hayobang and take it for a ride, well you go for it. Those Hayobangs have a wonderfull reputation for quality and are basically a bullet proof motor. But I won't be doing it to any of my precious motors.

[jonbuoy]

I run diesel rated oils in my CB750 as it allegedly gives better protection for old school flat tappet engines. Wouldn´t dream of doing it on a modern bike engine. No good will come of putting fuel oil in your lube oil .

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...l_summary.html

[FruitLooPs]

Fuel dilution usually damages the cam followers on modern motors first. The thin hard facing on the follower needs a good strong oil film to keep it off the nice relatively soft cam shaft. The moment the cam touches the follower well it’s the beginning of the end for these parts.

So true, my old gsxr has lost some hardening on a couple of the cam followers and scored the camshaft. It also had leaky float valves in the damn carbs that freaking hydrolocked the engine and bent a rod.

[pete376403]

The diesel has a couple of problems. Firstly new low sulphur diesel is a crap lubricant. When it is cold it’s a bad lubricant hot it is as thin as water and looses any ability to lubricate.

Fuel dilution usually damages the cam followers on modern motors first. The thin hard facing on the follower needs a good strong oil film to keep it off the nice relatively soft cam shaft. The moment the cam touches the follower well it’s the beginning of the end for these parts..

Are you suggesting diesels don't have cam followers and can therefore survive on crap lubricant? OMG, why did I waste several years of my life doing an apprenticeship at GGH on Cat tractors.
Diesels also get blowby, leading to carbon contamination of the oil. What do you think the blackness (of used oil) is? BTW, blackness is good, it means the carbon is in suspension in the oil so it can be removed at oil change time, rather than building up inside the engine.

I've worked on Cat D8s where the oil came out totally black, yet the inside of the crankcase, etc wiped clean.

If you really want to know how your oil is doing, Goughs do oil analysis. They can tell you exactly what is in the oil, and where is most likely came from.

[Flip]

I run diesel rated oils in my CB750 as it allegedly gives better protection for old school flat tappet engines. Wouldn´t dream of doing it on a modern bike engine. No good will come of putting fuel oil in your lube oil .

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...l_summary.html

That Valvolene stuff I use is a low ash which meand it is a light diesel oil, and it has passed the API testing as both a petrol and light diesel oil.

[JMemonic]

Are you suggesting diesels

Actually go back and reread, there seems to be two schools of though and discussion in the thread, one is about using diesel oils in petrol engines as a flush, the other is about using diesel (the fuel) as a flush. So unbunch your panties and go back a little, I would suspect that on the fuel (diesel) side of things Flip might know a little more than a mechanic (sorry not trying to take anything away from you there but I know what he does for a crust). He has pointed out he actually runs a mixed fleet oil, you know one suitable for light diesel and petrol engines.

If you really want to know how your oil is doing, Goughs do oil analysis. They can tell you exactly what is in the oil, and where is most likely came from.

This has been recommended before by in other threads, its a tad costly for most of us to get it done on every oil change though.

[avgas]

You should never have to flush a modern motor that is in service. There is nothing in the sump that shouldn’t be there already, and the last little bit of dirty oil is of no importance.

Sorry I call BS here.
What happens in a wet sump.........
Common causes in motorbike clutch slip are?.......
New engines are just the same as old ones. In fact some are worse as the alloy needs "bedding in" in some situations.
I have seen all sorts come out in first oil changes in new bikes. A flush can only benefit this process.

[Flip]

Sorry I call BS here.
What happens in a wet sump.........
Common causes in motorbike clutch slip are?.......
New engines are just the same as old ones. In fact some are worse as the alloy needs "bedding in" in some situations.
I have seen all sorts come out in first oil changes in new bikes. A flush can only benefit this process.

Sorry you are being a bit criptic for me.

Are you talking about running in oil?

[LBD]

If you must flush your engine.....and there is a case for that (used oil remains in the oil galleries, pump, cooler etc) then... Drain the old oil, change the filter, fill with new correct spec oil and go for a short ride to operating temps drain and refill. If you want to be pedantic, change the filter again. (In a hydrailic circuit some 25 % of the oil is in the pumps/pipes/and cylinders)

Do not use diesel a specific diesel engine oil in your petrol bike. Friction modifiers in the Diesel oil may cause clutch slip. Use the OEM recomended oils

Do not run diesel instead of oil to "Wash" the engine. The low viscosity will not prevent metal contact. When you drain the flushing diesel, some will remain in the galleries, pump, cooler etc. meaning when you refill with the correct oil, it will be diluted with any remaining diesel left in the system

Do change oil on or ahead of schedule. If different filters are available, go for the finest Micron rating available.

35% of the soot produced in an engine (Including those black smoky diesels) goes out the exhaust, the remaing 65% goes into the oil.

Valve gear is usually the first to fail when there is a lubricant problem.

Soot particles are nearly as hard as diamond. Soot particles agglomerate and can form wedges leading into the cam/follower interface, wiping the lubricant away starving the interface and causing rapid wear.

[nallac]

My HD manual recommends "Only use the specified oil, however if it is not available a quality Diesel engine oil is acceptable but must be replaced as soon as the specified oil is available.Honestly

I know a guy that runs Diesel oil in his Sporty,its done over 160k....so it seems to work in the ole low tech harley engines....
But then again H-D says you can use its as a back up untill you can get in and buy some over price H-D branded oil.

From LBD's post above,"Do not use diesel a specific diesel engine oil in your petrol bike. Friction modifiers in the Diesel oil may cause clutch slip."
Most likely why H-D's can run/use it cause of the seperate primary drive..

[The Pastor]

there is so much confusion in this thread its brilliant!

Two things people are talking about here

1. mixing diesel (fuel from the petrol station pump) with normal oil for an engine flush.

2. Running a bike on diesel oil. Oil made for diesel engines - NO diesel in the oil. (imo its pretty much the same as bike oil)

I think a few posts on here are mixing the two up.

[DEATH_INC.]

There is soooo much misinformation in this thread too. Who here can tell me the chemical composition of a diesel engine oil and a bike oil? And what the differences are? ( shaddup Quasi! )

[Quasievil]

A Really good tip is to also add a tea bag (new) per litre of oil to the engine oil, the tanins in the tea enhance the oil quality and bring a soothing effect to the lubrication qualities, but dont use Bell etc, use Dilma, its the best.
I got a mate that has been doing this for years and he swears by it