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Thread: Anyone got a blind bearing puller they are willing to lend?

  1. #16
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    30th July 2008 - 18:56
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    Quote Originally Posted by DangerousBastard View Post
    Split hair much? In this case it falls out. Doesn't matter what they are made of. Take a large and heavy hammer, a solid punch, and a bearing, and bash it hard, and you will get shards. Wear safety glasses or pay the price.

    Steve
    Don't take a BFH (big frecking hammer) to anything you dont want to bugger. The bearing shell is a lot stronger than the steel the steering tube is made of. Back in the old days you might have been able to split a shell but the metals used now days are very tough and strong.

  2. #17
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    9th June 2008 - 22:46
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    To clarify its the outer race thats pressed into the steering head and I got the dimesion wrong its 55mm not 30mm
    I got the outer lower race off with a dremel cut off wheel there a great little tool
    Thanks for your advice
    any idea why the welding trick works?
    The project bike builders motto: The perfect is the enemy of the good

    GS 500 page includes wiki : http://www.gstwin.com/

  3. #18
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    24th July 2006 - 11:53
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    Quote Originally Posted by birdhandler View Post
    any idea why the welding trick works?
    The heat expands the shell, but because it's constrained by the headstock most of that expansion becomes internal shear, within the shell itself.
    When the shell cools the contraction is unconstrained, so it shrinks more than it expanded. wolla.

    Actually doesn't need to be an arc welder, any method of heating the shell (quickly) and not the headstock will work. It's just that a stick is easy to aim and control in there.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  4. #19
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    9th May 2010 - 00:04
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    Hi I am in Drury and should be able to give you some assistance call me on 09 2948102 after 9.00am Ron

  5. #20
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    30th July 2008 - 18:56
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    The weld goes in hot and the weld shrinks as it cools. It also anneals the bearing shell which softeners and allows the weld to shrink the shell.

    Don't forget to disconnect the battery and put the negative terminal as close to the weld as possible. Your electronics don't like stray earth currents.

    One last thing try a good hard punch, and grind the end so it has say a slight 15 deg slope on it. You might then just be able to catch the side of the shell and get it out the normal way. Its worth a crack before you try the welder.

  6. #21
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    9th May 2010 - 00:04
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    HI the above are good to some extent but if the inner race is stuck on the stem be carefull not to get too heavy with the hammer or you will be buying more than new bearing. if this is the bottom bearing inner which would be pressed on the base of the stem then heat will increase the bearing size allowing it to fall off if on the other hand you are talking about the outer races in the head stock they may have been fitted with the new Locktite materials and heat will release them also. Give me a call on 09 2948102 on Monday after 9.00am I am in Drury and could assist if required to remove the bearing as we have a engineering business and get challenges like this all the time so dond destroy the bike to remove a little bearing as many before have done out of frustration!!!

  7. #22
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    18th May 2005 - 09:30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flip View Post
    unless you mean a die grinder in which case you have a lot more patience than I do.
    yep, took me a while last time


  8. #23
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    13th September 2005 - 18:20
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    I've never seen a taper roller bearing cup in a headstock that couldn't simply be drifted out. And I've seen shitloads. Just like wheel bearings on non-driving wheels of cars.
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

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