Can you loan a flywheel holding tool?

[Staticam]

I haven't looked at buying or making one yet - thought I'd ask here first. I'm trying to get at the starter clutch on the Cagiva again. I can't budge the main nut, even with a bit of wood jammed through the rear wheel.

So, has anyone got one of those special C shaped tools I can borrow?

Flywheel dimensions; 134mm OD with two 9mm dia holes at 180deg.

[CookMySock]

Rattle gun? Or is that too hard on the gearbox etc?

I have also seen a small wedge of ally placed in the primary gear teeth so to lock it. Dunno if I'd be swinging on the other end of the crankshaft though.

Steve

[Staticam]

Dunno about a rattle gun. The wood is jamming it up fine, but what I should have added is that the nut ain't coming loose because the crank is slipping via the clutch.

[thepom]

I had the same problem and broke parts of the clutch trying to loosen it....my mate told me you have to use a rattle gun......I took it to work and it was off the second touch of the rattle gun, I didnt even need to hold anything as the shear force of the gun just broke it lose immediatley......cost me 200 bucks in spare parts for my clutch

[imdying]

I had the same problem and broke parts of the clutch trying to loosen it....

To clarify, was it the previous attempt or the rattle gun attempt that broke something?

[Harvd]

Made one using: two 400mm bits of steel flats, three 50mm bolts (diameter to suit holes as closely as possible), and 6 nuts to make the thread length poking out fit the holes.
Worked just fine and no damage to any parts.

[thepom]

It was not the rattle gun......I was trying various tools to stop the basket from rotating with a long scrwdriver and snapped the lug off.So after it was broken I tried again with a different tool and method and broke one of the legs off too......kicked the dog and bought one off e bay for 200 bucks only to get a pm from one of the KB guys who had one spare for 50 bucks.......dog ran for its life ha ha

[CookMySock]

The rattle gun must find the opposing torque somewhere - probably in the mass of the gearbox. I wonder if it might take a tooth off somewhere.

Steve

[F5 Dave]

Apply a decent amount of heat to the nut, if it is loctite'd it will help break down the loctite. Rattle gun with the part held with a rag in neutral should be the go.

[Staticam]

I will attempt to make one just as harvd has done. I've yet to have a scrounge around the garage to see what metal sticks are lying about. Any excuse to purchase some more tools, both heat and rattle guns would be nice. But I still need the spanner to effect tightening.

[Staticam]

I made a spanner, a couple of bolts screwed through some flats that were welded onto a length of angle. I got the nut off, yep it had been loctite'd. Got the flywheel off and it all looks perfectly fine. What a waste of time. I've got no idea where the bloody knocking is sound coming from.:slap:

[CookMySock]

Knocking sound? Check the clutch basket isn't loose.

Steve

[Staticam]

Initial knocking was - till it locked up - the starter clutch bolts backing out into the crankcase. http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...nk-crank-clonk!

That's all been fixed, but I really am getting paranoid because I swear the noise was coming back and getting louder. Hence I've gone from DEFCON 3, ticking to DEFCON 2, knocking. Which leads onto to the fact that I've just pulled it apart to make sure. Well thus far, paranoia confirmed.

Image shows damage to crank casing caused by the sprag bolts that backed out. Two of four sprag bolts are visible behind the ring gear, somehow they got through the holes.

[F5 Dave]

So you can grab the crank & not get too much shake from the mains? (there will be clearance movement, not bugger all). & this noise happens whilst stationary. is there slack in the starter cush drive?

[Staticam]

I can't detect any movement in the crank other than rotational. The starter clutch and gear train has no slack, it freewheels one way and locks up in reverse. I had the clutch side open about a year ago, I don't think there's any problem with it.

The noise is heard while idling but I reckon it's still there when under way but you can't hear it for the rest of the clamour. Perhaps it's valves it's the right frequency. I tried a screwdriver to the ear trick in place of a real stethoscope, and it really sounds to be coming from the bottom end somewhere.