Moto Guzzi service?

[Jackal]

My 2000 Moto Guzzi California is due for a 20000k service. Thought I would give it a crack myself. Question to other do-it-yourself Guzzi owners is: Who in New Zealand are good suppliers of quality filters for Guzzis. Also what make of engine oil is best for my Italian Stallion?

[Taz]

Moto kiwi.

I use caltex Delo 400 diesel oil in all my bikes.

[Paul in NZ]

Pete and Debs at Moto Kiwi for parts and advice on oil....

For what its worth - I use Penrite oil in da engine, any EP90 in the box and Motul in the diff (the one fortified with Moly)

Have you ever taken the sump off to get to the filter??? If not you will need gaskets and dont forget the 4 bolts in the middle.

Adjusting the valves is a bit odd as its done at TDC (S and D on the flywheel)

If you get stuck sing out and one of the local Guzzi greaseballs will help out ;-)

[Jackal]

Thanks. Have just sent an email to Moto Kiwi

[nudemetalz]

Have you ever taken the sump off to get to the filter??? If not you will need gaskets and dont forget the 4 bolts in the middle.

4 bolts in the middle?
Which are those, Paul?
My V11 only has the 14 bolts around the edge of the sump.

I've reused the sump gasket a couple of times. Just found if really careful and use a little sealant it's fine and doesn't leak oil.

The tappets are dead easy to do, .10 inlet and .15 exh at TDC.
California should be the same as they're virtually the same engine as the Sport save for detuning.

[SS90]

Adjusting the valves is a bit odd as its done at TDC (S and D on the flywheel)

What's odd about setting valve clearances at TDC?

[Paul in NZ]

4 bolts in the middle?
Which are those, Paul?
My V11 only has the 14 bolts around the edge of the sump.

I've reused the sump gasket a couple of times. Just found if really careful and use a little sealant it's fine and doesn't leak oil.

The tappets are dead easy to do, .10 inlet and .15 exh at TDC.
California should be the same as they're virtually the same engine as the Sport save for detuning.

Nope - the V11 is a broad sump engine, its a bit different to the Tonti framed Cali one... at least the calis I've seen ;-)

[Paul in NZ]

Setting the tappets at tdc is confusing on a guzzi the first time (for some)

Most, ok, many, engines are set on the heel of the cam and because of overlap on many engines setting them at tdc is impractical as they are either open or on the opening ramps. The confusing part is setting them on the marks S (left) and D (right) because in the excitement folks forget that the marks pass the pointer twice in each cycle and tdc is not when the mark is reached every time, its every second time. Given the uneven firing of the engine it feels 'wrong' to many folks ending up with clattery noises and bent push rods...

This...

Basic Instructions for a Guzzi Big Twin Valve Adjust

1. Put machine on stand then remove spark plugs.

2. Move back wheel back and forth. Select a high gear, at least fourth.

3. Remove both rocker covers.

4. Obviously the rocker to the front of the bike is the Exhaust rocker, the one nearest the
carb/injector is the Inlet rocker.

5. Now watch one cylinders rocker gear at the same time get a friend to rotate the rear
wheel in the normal (forward) direction of rotation (DOR) slowly,

6. Now what you want to do is first watch the EXHAUST rocker go down and come back up,
carry on rotating and do the same to the INLET rocker but as soon as the rocker stops
cease rotating the rear wheel for a moment, then find a small piece of rod say 2MM wide
by at least 300MM long, insert through the spark plug hole and rest on top of piston
then continue rotating wheel slowly until the rod comes up toward you to the highest
point then stop. The piston will be near enough at TDC to set valve clearances.

7. You will need to know the clearance for you're particular machine stated in the (ManSpec)
Manufacturers Specifications, look in the manual under rocker / valve clearances.

8. Select a Feeler Gauge as stated by you're manual and insert it in the clearance between
the rocker arm and the valve stem, so if it is a sliding fit with no excessive clearance the
valve will not need resetting. If the stated clearance is say 0.35MM, and a 0.37MM gauge
will slide slightly tight in the clearance I would not adjust it, but any clearance larger than
this then I would. If in the manual it states two clearance sizes, the larger clearance will
always be for the EXHAUST.

9. The same routine applies to the other cylinder, it doesn't matter which is done first.

10. The clearances are adjusted via undoing the Locknut and rotating the screw in the
required direction, then retightening the locknut.

11. Once you have done the above the valve clearances are set.

12. Replace all covers and plugs "rock" the rear wheel to select neutral gear.

13. At the end of action #6 with the piston at the uppermost position, if you wanted to find
true TDC this is normally located on the flywheel, by removing the rubber bung on the
clutch housing and looking in you will see a scribed line on the surface. These marks
will be also used for setting the ignition timing. You may have to "rock" the engine as
prescribed above about 25MM either way to accurately align the line with the associated
marker/pointer.

14. So if you’re setting the IGNITION timing, you MUST use the timing marks on the
flywheel, but if you’re just setting the valve clearances Nos 1-12 will suffice. Please note
that each cylinder will have its own marks (2) on the flywheel for both ignition and tdc,
you cannot use ONE set of marks for BOTH cylinders. The two marks per cylinder
scribed on the flywheel will be within 30MM or so to each other. If you rotate the engine
the way it runs (via fourth gear) the timing mark that appears first will be for IGNITION
timing, the next mark will be TDC. To make life a little easy after you have set the piston
via small rod to the highest point, highlight the flywheel marks via white paint or use
Tipex as i do.

is from here...

http://www.guzzitech.com/

this is useful

http://thisoldtractor.com/guzzi_training/

[Dodgyiti]

Thanks. Have just sent an email to Moto Kiwi

Sometimes it pays to call him. Emails are so impersonal.

20,000 service - that would be the fork oil and all the other fluids and lube the d/shaft splines?

Pretty straight forward bikes, yours is injected eh? So if you have not played with the air filter or mufflers that part should be ok, if you get fussy, you could vacume balance the throttle bodies. Otherwise the owner's handbook will give you the basics of what and how to do it without having to splash out on a workshop manual. Plus there is the internet, plus there is Paul....

... who has helped me over the years