Yep, those tip over sensors stick, give 'er the bash and that should fix it.
Yep, those tip over sensors stick, give 'er the bash and that should fix it.
Drew for Prime Minister!
www.oldskoolperformance.com
www.prospeedmc.com for parts ex U.S.A ( He's a Kiwi! )
Someone posted the internals of one at one stage... I think it might have been in the racing thread?
Give it a bash? good one. They are electronic and cost a fortune for what they are and cannot be by passed. Turn on ignition and place a screw driver or something metal against them and draw the steel down. There is a steel disc inside and its magnetised with the 12V thats feed thru it. If ya racing and cant afford a new ign module (they dont need the return signal to operate) , the quick fix was to pop the lid and squirt silicon on top of the disc (to hold it down) then glue the unit back up. (but i didnt tell you that ok) The low voltage signal goes back to the ignition module.
Yup pull the codes, then reset. Make sure you short out the CORRECT WIRES,
Try putting it in neutral? and or
Clutch lever took more of a pounding than you say, dont know your bike but have you got wires comin out of the clutch lever or a micro switch attached to it??
While you are at it check the slow speed detection switch, this activates the landing gear prior to coming to a stand still. They have a tendancy to fail for all sorts of reasons.
Is this one of those trick brain teaser questions where everyone overlooks the obvious answer?
Is it still lying down on the ground?![]()
With out hyjacking this thread do you know a way of by passing a hall effects type switch? I know you can simply splice the power feed and return on the earlier types that simply make or break. Are you suggesting the same method and feed 12 V back to the ignition? Be keen to know as i was told it cant be done.
Have a look at the clutch lever microswitch. You've probably knocked the connection loose going over
If it says "CHEC" on the dash,
then it means something silly is stopping it from starting (i.e. kill switch on, bike in gear + stand down, or something like that). If the FI light is flashing it means the ECU has an error code in it. Put it into dealer mode and read it.
I also heard from someone that to reset the tip switch, you need to take the key out of the ignition, walk back a few meters (so that the transponder in the igniton can't read the key anymore) and then bring it back, an that supposedly resets it.
Alternatively, pull the battery terminals, squeeze the brakes to drain the last ounces of juice from the system and hook it back up.
I love the smell of twin V16's in the morning..
And the winner is ------- The C42 was flashing. (ignition switch) A peer down the wires and nothing odvious. That nice bloke from Moto Dynamix turned up (yea yea well Shaun can be nice sometimes) and lifted the tank and airbox out and there it was. One
wire from the loom to the connector for the ignition barrel was broken off.
At some point in the bikes past it had had a liedown and the wire had been shortened.
I'm actually pretty stoked that it happened where and when it did. It cost me a clutch lever but I'd much rather that than spend an entire trackdayor raceday sitting watching other guys out havin fun.
To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?
Pleased to hear it was something simple and fixable there Frosty.A man can't be sitting idle at a tack day! Nope not never.
Every day above ground is a good day!:
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