Rebuilding the GP100

[Slingshot]

I've got a few questions about putting my GP100 motor back together, the first one is rhetorical.

- Why did I think it was a good idea to fix something that wasn't broken.
- Should I put some locking compound on the outside of the bearings to keep them from spinning in the housing...or is this not necessary?
- I've got a new gasket set..the question is should I use a gasket between the crank case halves? And should I use goopy stuff to make the seal better?

I'm sure I'll have more questions, but answers to the above would be handy to start with.

Cheers John

[TZ350]

- Should I put some locking compound on the outside of the bearings to keep them from spinning in the housing...or is this not necessary?

- I've got a new gasket set..the question is should I use a gasket between the crank case halves? And should I use goopy stuff to make the seal better?

Is this a Suzuki GP100. if so. Things the workshop manual does not tell you:-

Team ESE have not used locking compound on the outside of their main bearings and had no problems with them spinning in the cases.

A GP100/125 does not use a gasket between the case halves. Some Suzuki singles do some don't. Use Yamaha bond or something similar to seal the case halves. We have found that they can leak if you use that red Locktight Master Gasket Goo.

When you put the rotary valve back put the shiny polished side to the outside and a bit of sealant on the rotary valve driving dog where it buts up against the main brg. So the motor can't suck out the gear box oil.

One side of the driving dog has a smooth ground surface for the oil seal so get it the right way around when you put it on.

You can only put the mainshaft key in after the rotary valve driving dog has been pushed on the crank and all the way up to the main brg.

There is a little notch on the rotary valve that lines up with the keyway. You can put the rotary valve back two ways, one side will be a little polished from rubbing on the outer cover. Put it back with the polished side out ("out" means facing you).

Remember "Notch", "Keyway" and the fact that the "Inlet" opens way before TDC (top dead center) and closes early ATDC (after top dead center) and you can't go wrong.

There are seven little pins, six of them hold the clutch springs the seventh goes in the plastic gear and shaft that drives the oil pump and tacho. People often forget the oil pump drive pin and then it all blows up a few miles later. A sure sign that this pin is missing is that the Tacho drive does not work.

Inside the gearbox there is a small washer that goes on the small end of the output shaft.

And a very thin "O" ring that goes over the output shaft on the outside at the sprocket end. This "O"ring seals the output brg and the small sleeve behind the sprocket so gearbox oil does not leak from there.

Hope this helps.
.

[quallman1234]

I wouldn't bother with locking compound with the bearings. As this is your first rebuild you might end up taking it apart again, plus its unlikely that it will spin in the cases.

Does the gasket set come with a gasket for the case halves?
If so then yes, you should use it. If not just use some goo stuff, make sure its high temp.

[F5 Dave]

Suzukis don't usually run center gasket. That grey goopy sealant is good, the same as Yamabond, name escaping me, something like 3M but not. Bike shop should stock.

I've had to use bearing seal, but only once on a worn set of cases where you could see the bearing turning.

[Skunk]

Suzukis don't usually run center gasket. That grey goopy sealant is good, the same as Yamabond, name escaping me, something like 3M but not. Bike shop should stock.

Threebond. Two types - one for 'normal' cases and one for 'damaged'. I've always used the 'normal' one. Called something like Threebond 2-11 I think.

[F5 Dave]

Ahh, thank you 3 Bond.

[Slingshot]

Good info, thanks.

Next question, I was going to reassemble the motor without the kick-start assemble. Is this as simple as not sticking those bits in and plugging the case where the shaft comes out?

[Skunk]

Was for me.

Ferkin hard to start mine now though... I think it misses the parts and is getting back at me for it.

[F5 Dave]

Yup, hook the parts out & epoxy a 2c piece (or whatever currency fits in there) in place after scrupulously cleaning it, maybe followed up with some Kneed-it (try borrowing Skunks, he seems to give it away for free).

Then don't be a pussy & push it.

[bucketracer]

.

ThreeBond 1215 and it comes in a white box with red and white logo and some black Japanese writing.

Also has "Liquid Gasket. Gray Solventless Silicone Sag Type." on one side.

So there we have it, just the Bees Knee's.
.

[Skunk]

Yup, hook the parts out & epoxy a 2c piece (or whatever currency fits in there) in place after scrupulously cleaning it, maybe followed up with some Kneed-it (try borrowing Skunks, he seems to give it away for free).

Then don't be a pussy & push it.

Don't be a cheap arse.
Get a frost plug the right size and save the coin and gasket goo/epoxy/knead-it etc.

You can't get any knead-it from me. I gave it all away.

[Kendog]

You can't get any knead-it from me. I gave it all away.

Do you 'knead-it' back?

[Skunk]

Do you 'knead-it' back?

That was pathetic. Try again.

[Slingshot]

Don't be a cheap arse.
Get a frost plug the right size and save the coin and gasket goo/epoxy/knead-it etc.

You can't get any knead-it from me. I gave it all away.

I was planning on having a thread put in the case and plugging it. What's a frost plug?

[Skunk]

A dished plug that is hammered into the hole. They are used in (older) cast iron engine blocks on cars to fill the casting holes needed to form the water jacket. They are availble from Repco, Tonys Auto Centre (Tory St) and the like.