Does anyone see an issue with this idea?

[BASS-TREBLE]

Couple of weeks ago was reading up on quickshifters and how easy it can be done with a power commander kit on injected bikes and thought about how I could do it on the FZR.

Since I've had the wiring harness fully apart before I knew what did what sohad a ponder and thought about putting a switch in the highlighted wire below and putting a switch by the shifter.

The wire runs direct from the relay to the ignitor, providing an earth.

Reason I didnt want to interupt it at the sidestand switch before the relay was to avoid the extra time of the relay having to activate again.

I personally don't think the quick cutting out will hurt the ignitor but I'm hoping that someone can confirm this, or point out why it wouldn't be.
Or if you have any other ideas let me know please

Bike is a 87 FZR1000

Cheers guys

[pete376403]

Is the idea to momentarily kill the ignition so you can shift without the clutch or closing the throttle?

Relay in the supply line to the ignition through normally closed contacts, power to relay coil from master supply switch / ignition switch /whatever and a button on the left bar to ground the relay coil. Tap the button and the relay picks, opening the contacts/killing the ignition for as long as the button is pressed.

Should make for wonderful bangs in the exhaust when the ignition comes back on

Not much new under the sun - when my dad told me, when he was racing speedway at Kilbirnie back in the '20s, he had a button on the bars that grounded the magneto, killing the spark. Was used going into the turn, rather than closing the throttle.

Ever heard the expression "to button off" meaning to slow down a bit?

[avgas]

Should be fine as your pre-exup..... I had some issues getting it to work on the FZ1, and so left it out. But got it to work on the ol' Chevette.
You should know however that it is just fucking annoying if you not shifting in 0.5 sec (or quicker). As you can kill the motor depending on the setup. DAMHIK
Good if you chuck a master override in. So that you don't have to "hit it" all the time in a ride.

Will see if I have got the papers here somewhere....

[BASS-TREBLE]

Cheers for the feedback.
So both of you are saying that there is no issue cutting the ignition by using the wire that I highlighted?

Thats a start, I'm still not sure if I should switch it with a bar mounted switch or one on the lever though.

Is a bar mounted switch easy to get used to/use it?

[Crasherfromwayback]

Cheers for the feedback.
So both of you are saying that there is no issue cutting the ignition by using the wire that I highlighted?

Thats a start, I'm still not sure if I should switch it with a bar mounted switch or one on the lever though.

Is a bar mounted switch easy to get used to/use it?

Do yourself a favour and just back the throttle off for a split sec instead.

[pete376403]

Bar mounted button would be easier. Gear lever operated switch would have to work in both directions - or two switches, one either side of the lever.

Shouldn't have any effect on the life of the ignition components as it's not doing anything different to what happens when the ignition is switched on or off.

The master override would only be required if it was an automatic (ie shift lever switched) system. If its a bar button, you can still not use that, instead do the close the throttle/use the clutch thing.

Do the bar button first. If that seems to do what you're after, move on to the lever switch(es)

[bogan]

I would be hesitant about floating the earth (i assume earth as it's black) to the ignition system, I would recommend the switch replicate how the engine stop button works, as that is designed to kill a running engine, whereas the sidestand switch is more designed to stop one starting. Just a safer option I reckon.

[Gubb]

I'm still stuck in the maze you posted up. How do I get out with the cheese?

[Robtharalson]

The method you outlined will work, but there is a better way: cutting power as the kill switch does will work better from a circuit protection point of view and is easy to do as the wires are already up front where you probably want to mount the button.

The only problem with kill switch shifting is if the shift isn't complete when the ignition cuts back in the sudden surge of power from the now revitalized motor can force the trans to complete the shift whether it wants to or not, and can cause considerable damage to the engagement dogs on the gear in question, sometimes stripping them right off and sending lots of pieces of hardened steel wandering through the gears and everything else that can trap it and cause more damage.

One setup I have seen that seems to work well is a switch on the shift drum detent arm / ball that will cut power as soon as the drum starts to move past a certain angle and keeps the ignition off until the arm / ball drops into the next detent. It can be a bitch to get it installed and adjusted properly, and if you miss a shift badly enough it can kill the motor until the shift is completed, usually when you have coasted to a stop.

How much faster do you think it will shift with this setup versus the standard clutchless "roll off the throttle until the preloaded shifter begins to move, complete the shift, roll the throttle back on" method? According to a timing circuit I rigged up my average shift time is less than 65 milliseconds when I'm on the track and in a hurry, and around 110 milliseconds when being lazy on the street. Either way it's pretty damn fast, and once you know what you are doing poses little more risk of trans damage than using the clutch.

At any rate a quick shifter will be of benefit only when drag racing, and even then it will show an average E.T. improvement of only 0.005 second or so, at least in my experience.

Rob