Pity F1 engineering is so far away in Cameltron. I have a bike I'd like to get checked on their jig too.
Pity F1 engineering is so far away in Cameltron. I have a bike I'd like to get checked on their jig too.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
unbolt the sidecar and go for a ride
It'll be because you'll have one arm shorter than the other
Or one longer...![]()
The Heart is the drum keeping time for everyone....
After checking many, many possibilities, three remain:
1. Frame not straight - I really hope it's not this one 'cause I don't have the money to check and fix it. Also, this bike is my daily commuter so I can't afford to keep if off the road for days or weeks
2. Bent forks - will be checking them shortly miself.
3. Uneven oil level in the forks - does anyone know if I can check this without completely disassembling the forks (like the manual says)?
4. Fucked/damaged damping valve(s) in one of the forks - have no ideea if this is possible and how to check for it (without full fork disassembly).
Anybody know how / if I can do points 3 and 4 without disassembling the forks? I can easily remove the top fork cap but anything after that (spring removal, etc...) involves tools that I don't have so will have to be done at the shop which means money that I don't have - just bought a new set of tires for the bitch.
I'd ignore 3 & 4. I can't see it puling to one side or another as a result. That front end is pretty well tied together.
You could also try putting a spirit level on one wheel or disc till the bike is upright, then on the other wheel to see that it is in the same plane.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Took the forks off today and did a basic check on them.
The only thing I found was the rods (the thinner half of the fork) seem to be slightly bent to one side - both forks in the same direction. However, I don't know if this bent is big enough to make a difference: with a straight rod secured to the thicker half of the fork and running in parallel to the rest of the fork, the distance between the rod and the fork at the end of the suspension travel part (where the wheel axle mounting unit is "glued" to the fork) variates about 2 mm.
Would this be enough to create my problems?
Bet you its a bent fork,had the same problem with mine pulling to the left and it looked ok till I stripped it and found a kink in the fork.Checked everything same as you did......![]()
Has it ever bothered you that Therapist is The Rapist if you break the word in two? It bothers me, especially when they suggest hypnosis.
Man i went down this road with my race bike! My problem was everything we looked at was bent so I couldnt tell you which piece actually fixed the problem haha
We had a bent frame, bent forks, bent wheels and triple clamps haha Im pretty sure the last thing we replaced was the forks and that fixed the problem
what he said.
not sure who that is in Wellington.
my neighbour has a CBR1000RR that be bought as a damaged writeoff. first thing on getting it back on the road was to get it laser aligned. I think it cost him 400 plus GST? something like that. they do it with (Dr Evil voice on) "lasers" or something. (Dr Evil voice off)
I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave
Definately your forks,now you have to strip the forks and do a runout check.....roll the shiny silver bits on a flat surface to see how much it wobbles....2 mm is a lot of differance...
Had a similiar problem but found it was only while riding past bottlestores and bars, worth a check
"If you haven't grown up by the time you turn 50, you don't have to!"
After removing the forks and installing them back, things are better. I also found a plastic label on one of the forks that was caught in the lower triple clamp. It is possible that was changing the alignment too.
Now, at high speeds it's almost unnoticeable. If I take my hands off the bars it will still go one side, but while normal riding, the pull is so small, it doesn't feel more difficult taking left hand corners.
The bend in the forks that I have seen must be from the factory. Neither the frame or the forks have any scratches to point to a crash and the bike's history is clean (was first registered in NZ).
For the moment it's good enough for me. Instead of spending thousands of $$ trying to get it perfectly straight, as long as the problem is small enough, I prefer spending the money on petrol and tyres.
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