Kings of 50cc help with my Scootermotard

[rabidnz]

i cant find my cdi, i dont think :P
all i can see is what i think is the coil and the reg/rec
here is a couple of pics of them just in case im retarded and the reg rec is built onto the side of the coil

[F5 Dave]

do a search about rules or look on MNZ site. Basically non competition parts inside the engine but pistons, ign, carbs, pipes or chassis are free.

That inlet looks heinous, but what is space like behind cylinder?

bike pic link?


hmm, looks at bad internet pic. . . looks ok for straight inlet.

[F5 Dave]

CDI is in the coil.

[rabidnz]

ok so does that mean i will need to ditch the whole unit and get a cdi and a coil?
how specific is the coil to the cdi? will pretty much any single coil be ok?

[Spearfish]

http://www.gasgasmotos.es/en/manuals/search-rookie.html

Its the closest I've found

[rabidnz]

cheers mate, got that one already, more of a user guide though, although the speedo instructions will come in handy once my replacement arrives.

heres some photos,
first couple showing the oodles of room behind the cylinder, but the most room is immediately left or right of the intake, which is why that right angled intake could be perfect. There is heaps of room where the airbox lives, but you have to squeeze past the shock a bit, which could cause trouble there.

next is the difference between the baby stocker and a tm28, that little baby has to go asap! also there is the restriction i found in the carbs, obviously this isnt restricting anything at the moment as you can see the bore of the inlet manifold is equally as tiny, ill remove it, but will probably fit an aftermarket reed cage at some point.

now the last two pictures are a curiosity a boy racer pointed out to me, he said my front tyre is on backwards, and it sure looks like it to me, ive never seen a tread pattern that would appear to collect water to the center of the tire before? It is clearly marked as a front tyre, with the arrow showing that it is mounted in the correct direction... was someone having a siesta at the tire factory on that day?

[Buckets4Me]

now the last two pictures are a curiosity a boy racer pointed out to me, he said my front tyre is on backwards, and it sure looks like it to me, ive never seen a tread pattern that would appear to collect water to the center of the tire before? It is clearly marked as a front tyre, with the arrow showing that it is mounted in the correct direction... was someone having a siesta at the tire factory on that day?

a metzeler tyre by any chance if so sll the ones i've seen (on the big HD's) all look like that on backwards
thats how they are

http://www.us.metzelermoto.com/en_US...V_LASERTEC.pdf

[gatch]

a metzeler tyre by any chance if so sll the ones i've seen (on the big HD's) all look like that on backwards
thats how they are

Avon race tires look the same I think.

[TZ350]

If they look backwards at the top, have a look and see what they are like at the bottom where the tread contacts the road, the tread will point in the correct direction.

[rabidnz]

cool, just making sure as it does look kinda odd.

Now for the ignition system, will i need to ditch the combined cdi/coil, and pick up something like this

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-319801156.htm

and this?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Mo...-318564339.htm

is there any benefit in paying for chinese aftermarket brightly coloured stuff?

[Spearfish]

The cdi will be no better than the one you have.
Some daytona CDI's give you 3 or more map settings + it has no rpm limit. The different ignition maps are quite different depending on what stage your at with mods. But they are very expensive I paid 200 just for the single map version, slightly better curve top end and no rev limits. I also had to go up 1 jet size for insurance.

[SS90]

next is the difference between the baby stocker and a tm28, that little baby has to go asap! also there is the restriction i found in the carbs, obviously this isnt restricting anything at the moment as you can see the bore of the inlet manifold is equally as tiny, ill remove it, but will probably fit an aftermarket reed cage at some point.

Looking at the picture of the reed block and stuffer, that is a really common reed block set up, and used on pretty much any standard 2 stroke set up (some use the stuffer, some don't) ranging from 50s to 135 big bore kits.

Personally I do not see the need to replace the reed block in my opinion, I know such an assembly with a malossi 133cc kit can be set up to produce 20 horsepower, so changing that will net you very little.

I would just enlarge the manifold (you can take the stuffer out of you like, but perhaps f5dave can relay some experience with 50cc and stuffers)

As far as the ignition goes, I will have a look around the wholesalers here to see what is offered, I am pretty damned sure you can just buy an cdi/coil set up that has a higher rev limiter and will plug straight in, rather than
pissing about with new looms and so on.

Did you take up the 22 mm carb offer? I am pretty sure that would be close to ideal for you, as the expensive carbs will only be a real gain if you go "all in" with your tuning.

[rabidnz]

hey thanks man, the reeds seem to be well engineered like you say, they still look new with no light shining thru so they will stay, i took out the stuffer and didnt really notice any difference - it looks as if it was actually smoothing out some of the bad casting lines in the carb.

I took up the offer on the free carb, but it is from a rotary valved gp100, and as such there is no way to mount an air filter on to it besides using gaffer tape. So those gp100 carbs are up for offer to whoever wants them for free, pm me ya addy.

I have found some cheap cdis with no rev limit and 3 adjustable timing settings for about fifty bucks, think ill dig into the wallet this week and splurge on a new inhaler for this emphycemic little beast

[bucketracer]

Hi Rabidnz

Glad you received the carb Ok. It might not be the one that eventually suits your bike best but it was something to start with/look at. Passing it on, if it's not going to work for you is a good idea and the Bucketeers way.

The team are now looking to use modified "OKO" brand, Keihin copy carbs, its easy and realitivly cheep to get the jets/needles etc for them.

It might be worth looking to see if Scooterazzi has anything. http://www.scooterazzi.co.nz/

I Goggled “motorcycle carb” and found a couple of good links about carb tuning to look up if you want too. Not everything on the net is true gold but when you look around a bit you can pretty quickly sort the chaff from the hay.

Motorcycle Carburetor Theory

http://www.justkdx.dirtrider.net/printcarbtuning.html

And

http://www.dansmc.com/carbs2.htm

Please keep posting pictures and details of your work, it’s interesting to see how others are getting on with their projects.

Regards Bucket……

[SS90]

hey thanks man, the reeds seem to be well engineered like you say, they still look new with no light shining thru so they will stay, i took out the stuffer and didnt really notice any difference - it looks as if it was actually smoothing out some of the bad casting lines in the carb.

I took up the offer on the free carb, but it is from a rotary valved gp100, and as such there is no way to mount an air filter on to it besides using gaffer tape. So those gp100 carbs are up for offer to whoever wants them for free, pm me ya addy.

I have found some cheap cdis with no rev limit and 3 adjustable timing settings for about fifty bucks, think ill dig into the wallet this week and splurge on a new inhaler for this emphycemic little beast

I got curious just now and had a wee look what is available, and it seems every supplier has the same stuff as you would expect!



From what I have read over the last 10 minutes, it would seem that you need to have 20,000 rpm.

This ties in with the story I was told that the 50s doing over 25ps spin to "more than 23,000 rpm"!

In this link you will see a malossi ignition kit (second one down on the left..... (You will need a translator for it, as it a German only site), for, what I can ascertain is suitable for your bike (expensive but) there are a few other cheaper options available on this site

http://www.racing-planet.de/index.ph...6&level2=11176

Just change the options, and you can see what else is available for the AM6 I see they have a Tasinari reed blocks (they would be the only reed block worth buying in my opinion, they work really well)

from what is written I would say the key to getting your bike moving is simply enlarge the inlet manifold, fit a bigger carb, change the gearing and unlimit the coil.

I don't think it will be a costly exercise in the slightest.
I realize it is expensive stuff, but I assure you that you can find this all second hand on Ebay all over the world cheap as chips.