Out of my depth

[F5 Dave]

he's just fired an engine of probably unknown parentage in a different frame. Made a non std exhaust & presumably no airbox & surprise it doesn't run properly. An airbox would be nice to try if you have one & it still fits, -it is a good suggestion so you can get a decent start to fault find other issues. Perhaps one leaking float, or the choke on, or another problem.

presumably the smoke is black on that side (rich), not blue (oil residue)?

But consider if rich' means at idle, it could be lean at full throttle which is a different cct & thus different jets. This richness (if real) could be due to a fault as described & jet swapping won't help until fixed.


And Jason, How dare you disagree with me bitch? Dog big black up you get a.

[Moooools]

OK NOW I AM GOING TO SHOUT BECAUSE YOU ARE NOT LISTENING ARE YOU?


Originally Posted by F5 Dave
. . . .

Biggest thing is (once you have the choke not jammed on or waggling in the breeze) is to consider the problem only by throttle position, not revs.

Not revs.

By throttle position.


Repeat every time you think of a symptom.



Therefore if you have a problem on full throttle you will need to adjust the mains. try bigger first in small steps, if it gets worse then smaller.

presumably you have ditched the airbox? that should make it quite lean to start with.

so clearly changing the mains will have little effect on how it starts or off close throttle.

Will it?

No it won't.

Also making big changes will likely confuse you more than learn you up.

I AM GOING TO SHOUT RIGHT BACK EVEN THOUGH THIS IS NOT ACTUALLY SHOUTING IT IS JUST WRITING WITH CAPITAL LETTERS.

I AM REALLY CONFUSED.

I marked out the throttle position the throttle tube and it was just to hard for me to work out what was happening. I now have come to the realization that how it idles has nothing to do with it.

I will try and give a description in terms of throttle position:

Before: Would not bog at any position. WOT would still not bog. However at 1/2 throttle or greater, any load would lead to the engine bogging.

After 20 decrease in jet: Would not get to 1/2 throttle at all. Engine would die when throttle opened.

I never had an airbox as the engine came from a wreckers. It is on pod filters but I know that they are crap.
It is also not on stock exhausts as it is an engine transplant. Going back to the baseline isn't really an option. Nothing has been altered except the needle height and main jet.

I always knew it wouldn't run well for a start, but the whole thing just confuses the shit outta me!

[White trash]

OK NOW I AM GOING TO SHOUT BECAUSE YOU ARE NOT LISTENING ARE YOU?





so clearly changing the mains will have little effect on how it starts or off close throttle.

Will it?

No it won't.

Also making big changes will likely confuse you more than learn you up.

Lol. You're funny as fuck man. I just sprayed my keyboard with Steinlager Pure and it's all sticky.

Cockhead.

[F5 Dave]

Lol. You're funny as fuck man. I just sprayed my keyboard with Steinlager Pure and it's all sticky.

Cockhead.

Better beer than the usual reason you pervert

[F5 Dave]

. . . .

Before: Would not bog at any position. WOT would still not bog. However at 1/2 throttle or greater, any load would lead to the engine bogging.

After 20 decrease in jet: Would not get to 1/2 throttle at all. Engine would die when throttle opened.
. . .

ahh, so there is more to the story than first ventured.

well there is bog & bog. one is like rich burrble bog & one is lean bog, sort of dies, but can get more bitchy. can be hard to tell.

but with a huge change in mains you could have gone from too rich to too lean or viceversa & missed the midpoint.

But in this case it was too lean & you've made it waay too lean. small to medium steps richer than 88 to see if it gets better.

But with the plug fouling thing you want to clear that up. go baqck to where it ran & sort that out before proceeding. My be just a duff plug, a duff coil/cap, or that carb, or that cylinder. swap out where you can.


obviously full testing has to be done under load. What will run just ok in neutral will be too lean for under load & needs to be richer.

it makes sense that you will need to go up a mainjet size or so for a std engine with the airbox removed. other jets may need a tweek with adjuster or a pilot size up, or may get away with it.

[speedpro]

OR . . . . you could be pissing in the wind with a weak ignition. Stock standard 125/2 ignitions are crap. Instant horsepower is to be had with an electronic version, say from an FZR250, plus suddenly it will start easier and on both cylinders. Tried and tested on a dyno, not a theory.

[Buckets4Me]

OR . . . . you could be pissing in the wind with a weak ignition. Stock standard 125/2 ignitions are crap. Instant horsepower is to be had with an electronic version, say from an FZR250, plus suddenly it will start easier and on both cylinders. Tried and tested on a dyno, not a theory.

I remember mucking around with my first ever bucket to be
lots of fiddling with the points and mucking around with sandpaper
it would run nice on 2 then drop back to 1 cylinder
I sold that and got a 2 stroke instead

I think speedpro may have the answer for you find someone down welly way to help and change the ignition or at least help you set up the points properly

[Moooools]

The ignition is actually CDI. So there shouldn't be too much of an issue there.

I have ordered some more jets so that I can test richening the mixture as well. I also will end up with a fair range of jets to pick from so whichever way I need to jet it I should be able to optimize it.

Anyway for now I will wait for those to come through and avoid confusing myself anymore that I need to be.

Might make myself a spark plug cleaner in the mean time as between this and my two stoke I am going through far to many.

[Henk]

From what I can tell from the wiring diagram with the switch on, Black and Red are conected to allow the electrons to flow and with the switch off Green and Black/White are connected to kill the ignition.
I'd try
1. Hard wire black and red together to get the system livened up
2. Hook Green and Black/White up through a kill switch so you have some way of turning the thing off.

Then kick it over with the plug out to see how things are going, you should be able to turn the spark on and off nicely. Try it with the plug out since if I'm wrong you may end up with a bike you can start but can't stop.

As for the airbox, they run a different set of rules in Chch so if you leave it off you may find yourself kicked up into a class where that isn't nearly enough in the way of modifications to make you competitive, I'm not sure if they run the modified and stock bikes at the same time, if so no big deal, if not you may find yourself getting seriously demoralised and if the speed differences are big enough quite a hazard.

[Buckets4Me]

The ignition is actually CDI. So there shouldn't be too much of an issue there.

makes life easier

as for sparkplugs EBAY and get them by the box

[SS90]

Better beer than the usual reason you pervert

Now that is what I call "owned"

[jasonu]

[quote=f5 dave;


and jason, how dare you disagree with me bitch? Dog big black up you get a.[/quote]

cobblers!!!!!

[Moooools]

From what I can tell from the wiring diagram with the switch on, Black and Red are conected to allow the electrons to flow and with the switch off Green and Black/White are connected to kill the ignition.
I'd try
1. Hard wire black and red together to get the system livened up
2. Hook Green and Black/White up through a kill switch so you have some way of turning the thing off.

Then kick it over with the plug out to see how things are going, you should be able to turn the spark on and off nicely. Try it with the plug out since if I'm wrong you may end up with a bike you can start but can't stop.

As for the airbox, they run a different set of rules in Chch so if you leave it off you may find yourself kicked up into a class where that isn't nearly enough in the way of modifications to make you competitive, I'm not sure if they run the modified and stock bikes at the same time, if so no big deal, if not you may find yourself getting seriously demoralised and if the speed differences are big enough quite a hazard.

I think this was meant for the noob question thread?

[Henk]

Right. Sorry. I'll paste it across. Blame it on incipient senile dementia.

[Moooools]

I think that I do have an oil leak in the engine. There is still a bit of blue smoke coming out after the top end rebuild.

New rings cost $80, new cylinders, pistons, rings and gaskets cost $180. I think I know which one I'm going for.
Hopefully those will arrive soon and then I can be sure of everything I do.