For the record, 42% of bike 'accidents' are caused by other vehicles. In a lot of cases that will include some failing on the rider's part as well.
Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?
Including the single vehicle accidents that go unreported?
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Figures shmigures...
If somehow we could stop all bike accidents due to rider fault, we'd still have crashes and we'd still get hurt.
Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?
At the risk of being a stuck record - don't shop for insurance by price, you'll get what you pay for.
+2 for Kiwibike.
http://www.kiwibike.co.nz/
They have a range of options. Cost comes down what you want cover for.
Thanks for the comments. I take the point about not just focusing on price- obviously it is only if and when you need to claim that you find out how good an insurance outfit is. I phoned around pretty extensively and found that Kiwibike and Protecta offered the best rates and cover for the money. AMI were almost double with a $1000 excess!
I'm in my 40s, riding an ST1300, and have returned to riding after a long lay off. My starting point for the return to (hopefully safe) riding is to disengage ego before engaging first gear- you have to accept that your skills, intuition and reflexes take time to get back to where they once were.
Obvious question and one I thought about a lot before buying the bike.
The bike's heavy but you don't feel the weight that much once it's moving due to rake angle and length of wheel base. Superior braking, lighting, road presence and visibility compared with a 250. I also have other options available for dirt/ off road riding which is crucial to developing/refreshing riding skills.
Buying and selling bikes, say starting with a 250 then selling that, buying a 550-650 then selling that, then moving to a larger bike is a very expensive and time consuming exercise. Didn't have either the time or money for that.
If you have a brain then whatever the size of the bike, you ride within your limits. Speed is obviously crucial here. Most of the time I'm using my bike to commute to and from work at speeds under 100k.
Also doing riding course and (unlike most bikers I've seen in Dunedin) wearing leathers, boots, decent gloves, back protector, SHARP five star rated helmet.
So, overall, sure I take your point that it makes sense to start with a smaller bike, but in every other respect I'm adopting a conservative approach to my return.
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