Bleed valve woes...

[magicmonkey]

So I've finally got the ZXR running well, the engine is top notch now I decided that it'd be a good idea to replace the brake fluid as its been in there at least 3 years so it needed to be done. When I unscrewed the bleed valve on the front left calliper it stripped the thread from the calliper, rather than the bleed valve, meaning that the calliper is pretty much useless now. Just wondering, is there some sort of magic trick I can use to sort that out or is it time to try and find a replacement?

Also, anyone got a spare calliper knocking around

[FJRider]

So I've finally got the ZXR running well, the engine is top notch now I decided that it'd be a good idea to replace the brake fluid as its been in there at least 3 years so it needed to be done. When I unscrewed the bleed valve on the front left calliper it stripped the thread from the calliper, rather than the bleed valve, meaning that the calliper is pretty much useless now. Just wondering, is there some sort of magic trick I can use to sort that out or is it time to try and find a replacement?

Also, anyone got a spare calliper knocking around

at least you have a hole ... they often snap off.

Either drill and re-tap a new thread with next size thread and replace with next size bleeder with the thread of that size ... or a heli-coil and use a new bleeder of the original size thread.

[magicmonkey]

at least you have a hole ... they often snap off.

Either drill and re-tap a new thread with next size thread and replace with next size bleeder with the thread of that size ... or a heli-coil and use a new bleeder of the original size thread.

is a helicoil ok to use in the brake system? I know the bleed valve isn't under that much pressure but I'm always wary of brakes ...

[Drew]

Bigger hole and bleed nipple, or helicoil for sure.

These are brakes though remember! The calliper needs to be TOTALLY free of swarf once the drilling and tapping is done, or the shit could very well hit the fan really quickly.

[Drew]

is a helicoil ok to use in the brake system? I know the bleed valve isn't under that much pressure but I'm always wary of brakes ...

They helicoil spark plug threads, what do you reckon?

[FJRider]

Bigger hole and bleed nipple, or helicoil for sure.

These are brakes though remember! The calliper needs to be TOTALLY free of swarf once the drilling and tapping is done, or the shit could very well hit the fan really quickly.

NOT the job you do with it still on the bike ..

[magicmonkey]

ok, I've never used a helicoil before but doesn't that involve drilling and tapping?

[schrodingers cat]

Depending on the material around the nipple there are options

1. Since a nipple relies on a tapered seat they don't need to be terribly tight (60"/lb for a 3/8 thread - about 5ft/lb) Most motorcycle nipples are about a M6 thread
Therefore you can helicoil the calliper, Ensure the helicoil is fitted square!

2. Find a larger thread size nipple and tap accordingly

3.Wilwood produce a replacement nipple. It consists of a brass insert (1/8" BSP) with a 1/4 UNF nipple in it. Most (car) speed shops will know what you're talking about

(Before any predants jump on me, I've guessed at the thread sizes but they are there or there-abouts)

Don't take it to a mechanic. Take it to a practical engineer/machinist/fitter

[schrodingers cat]

Bigger hole and bleed nipple, or helicoil for sure.

These are brakes though remember! The calliper needs to be TOTALLY free of swarf once the drilling and tapping is done, or the shit could very well hit the fan really quickly.

Fill the hole with vaseline or grease and bleed throughly when finished. Or if it is off the bike remove the piston and clean while you're there.

The tapered seat does the work NOT the thread

[magicmonkey]

Fill the hole with vaseline or grease and bleed throughly when finished. Or if it is off the bike remove the piston and clean while you're there.

The tapered seat does the work NOT the thread

well, I figure that it's going to need to come off the bike either way so I may as well just take it off today. One thing the manual doesn't say, and probably a really stupid question, but I assume I need to drain the fluid out before taking off the callipers right?

[schrodingers cat]

well, I figure that it's going to need to come off the bike either way so I may as well just take it off today. One thing the manual doesn't say, and probably a really stupid question, but I assume I need to drain the fluid out before taking off the callipers right?

Trust me. Take the calliper off and the fluid will find its way out

[magicmonkey]

Trust me. Take the calliper off and the fluid will find its way out

sweet, at least that's what I thought would happen time to find a metal bucket

[schrodingers cat]

Brake fluid is a bit corrosive so give everything a wipe down with a damp cloth

[FJRider]

Just remember the effect brake fluid has on paint ...

[T.W.R]

Don't f@#% around tapping out the nipple hole just get a replacement caliper from a wrecker
To effectively ensure there isn't any chance of swarf getting where it shouldn't be you'll have to split the caliper anyhow, and that's going to cost a set of seals along with the other expenses involved