2 Stroke Bike Maintanance??? Pls Help ;)

[StoneChucker]

Ok, so I just bought a second bike, Picture Here (ugly f***er on it is not me ).

I have quite a few questions, all help much appreciated.

It's an 82 Suzuki A100, the details of the 78 version are below (still the same I think):

A 100 1978
Overall Length: 1 855 mm (73.0 in)
Overall Width: 760 mm (29.9 in)
Overall Height: 1 040 mm (40.9 in)
Seat Height: 780 mm (30.7 in)
Ground Clearance: 140 mm (5.5 in)
Wheelbase: 1 200 mm (47.2 in)
Dry weight: 83 kg (183 lbs)
Engine type: Air-cooled 98 cc 2-stroke, 9,3 hp (6,8 kW)/ 7.500 rpm. 4-speed.

What I need to know is, are there any special maintanance issues with a 2 Stroke engine? I see that it takes 650cc of oil in the engine block, but it also has a container marked oil just under the seat on the right hand side. Is this second container the fuel oil (the oil which is mixed with the fuel for combustion)? Do I just put normal 2 stroke oil in the engine, and the same oil in the "fuel oil" reservoir? Or do you get specific fuel oil? (my head hurts now...).

Do A100's have an oil filter? How often should the oil be changed?
Finally, is it normal for the brights to not work until you've got the revs up? I understand this is because it works off an alternator, which is supplied directly from the revs of the engine? I'm hoping I don't have an issue like Paul in NZ with my solid front foot pegs. Thats how it came standard, don't see how they can fail me on it. (The wof/rego only expired last month)

So far I must say I'm pretty impressed. I thought it might be sluggish, but for an 82, 100cc bike it pulls pretty well, more than adequate for the use I have planned for it. That is, bucket racing. It's almost too nice to use as a bucket, as it's in seriously good nick. A side cover off e-bay ($9 US) and it'd be practically restored! However, my plans are to bolt skateboard wheels all over it like chicken pox and go racing... Speaking of which, I went to go watch BungBung at the Kaitoke Kart track, and as I suspected I'm all for buckets now! Some guys are really competitive and others have bikes you could run faster than. All I plan to do is up my skill, and learn correct lines / carrying speed through corners. Maybe in the future I'll try street stock and then F3, if the racing bug bites hard.

[Two Smoker]

Use 10W40 (i think) for the gearbox, and two stroke oil in the other tank... change the oil every 4-6000kms... and top up the two stroke oil when empty...

[Racey Rider]

... and top up the two stroke oil when empty...

Before empty!

[Kickaha]

... and top up the two stroke oil when empty...

errrrrrrrrrrrrrr you'd be much better to top it up before it's empty

[StoneChucker]

Use 10W40 (i think) for the gearbox, and two stroke oil in the other tank... change the oil every 4-6000kms... and top up the two stroke oil when empty...

So 10W40 in the engine block, and 2-stroke in the plastic reservoir marked oil? Sweet

Hmm, not sure how you check oil level though, got no dipstick or window (from what I can see).

[rua]

don't check it, just change it, 650ml can't cost much, nice synthetic in the fuel mix now, apparently bad to mix mineral and synthetic,
good luck.

[StoneChucker]

Another interesting if not obvious point is the difference between big bikes, and small entry level learner bikes. This one is SO easy to manouvre in/out the shed (having some shitty lawn / mud issues at the moment, and the A100 goes through the mud easier, or I can just pick up the back end and carry it in!). It has a much tighter turning circle, is lighter and in general seems alot less of a "chore" to get out the garage and onto the road (I keep the R1 on paddock stands, my earthquake protection. That, with the mud made it a hassle to get out. Fixed the mud problem today, so that's not an issue anymore )

Again, obvious, but you can see the reasons why small bikes are better to start with. Maybe it just seems so noticeable since I've come down in bikes, so to speak. Would hate to think of someone going from an A100 to 1000cc sports bike, with nothing in between as I doubt they would make it out their suburb without scaring themselves shitless, or worse!

[Marknz]

good onya SC, you'll have a ball racing on that thing.

I'm absolutely no use to you form a mechanical sense, but if you need any advice with respect to getting the bike setup to race and wire locked or whatever, drop me a line I'll be happy to come and take a look at it. That said, Eddie and Dave are probably your best options.

[StoneChucker]

good onya SC, you'll have a ball racing on that thing.

I'm absolutely no use to you form a mechanical sense, but if you need any advice with respect to getting the bike setup to race and wire locked or whatever, drop me a line I'll be happy to come and take a look at it. That said, Eddie and Dave are probably your best options.

Cheers Mark. I was under the impression that it didn't need wire locking, only all surface touching metal covered in plastic? I was going to go buy a dozen skateboard wheels and go mad with my drill and nuts-n-bolts.

But, I'll keep your offer in mind, cheers!

Say, how do you gear up, or down, or whichever increases acceleration (and enables wheelies ) Put a sprocket with more, or less teeth on the back, and/or front? You'd have to change the chain aswell right?

[Mr Skid]

Would hate to think of someone going from an A100 to 1000cc sports bike

That'd be almost as bad as someone going from a CBR250 to a R1

[StoneChucker]

don't check it, just change it, 650ml can't cost much, nice synthetic in the fuel mix now, apparently bad to mix mineral and synthetic,
good luck.

Cheers! Yeah, I wouldn't mix them myself. Is that Synthetic 10W40 in the engine block, and synthetic 2 stroke in the plastic container?
S'cuse the multiple NuBee (tm) questions, but I have no clue

[StoneChucker]

That'd be almost as bad as someone going from a CBR250 to a R1

Lol, yeah, who the hell would be THAT stupid!
PS: I love the "ring ding ding ding" of the 2-stroke A100

[Marknz]

Cheers Mark. I was under the impression that it didn't need wire locking, only all surface touching metal covered in plastic? I was going to go buy a dozen skateboard wheels and go mad with my drill and nuts-n-bolts.

But, I'll keep your offer in mind, cheers!

Say, how do you gear up, or down, or whichever increases acceleration (and enables wheelies ) Put a sprocket with more, or less teeth on the back, and/or front? You'd have to change the chain aswell right?

Jeesh, you've got all the speed aspects sorted haven't ya! From memory I used to gear my bucker in Aussie with a bigger front sprocket and smaller rear for the tracks like Eastern Creek and Phillip Island that had huge long straights, and when we were on tighht twisty go kart type tracks like the Oran Park Fig 8 then is was small front sprockets and HUGE rear sprockets. I used to have a ratio chart that told me what each combination would give me cause I had 2 front, 5 rear sprockets and two chains on the go at each meeting. sometimes if the slack can't be taken out of the chain with a rear axle adjustment, then we just swapped to a smaller chain... no what I mean?

[Coyote]

Damn you brought it! I wanted it

[StoneChucker]

Jeesh, you've got all the speed aspects sorted haven't ya! From memory I used to gear my bucker in Aussie with a bigger front sprocket and smaller rear for the tracks like Eastern Creek and Phillip Island that had huge long straights, and when we were on tighht twisty go kart type tracks like the Oran Park Fig 8 then is was small front sprockets and HUGE rear sprockets. I used to have a ratio chart that told me what each combination would give me cause I had 2 front, 5 rear sprockets and two chains on the go at each meeting. sometimes if the slack can't be taken out of the chain with a rear axle adjustment, then we just swapped to a smaller chain... no what I mean?

Yep Not sure if I'd be doing that though, might give it a few weeks/months to practice as is, then think about doing all that! Hells bells mark, any more than that and I'd need a pitcrew