What Phreak said.
What Phreak said.
Hahaha I had the same problem with my 2000 750Y but I found out the loom running through the triple clamps rubs on the lower bolt and rubbed through one of the power wires shorting out the dash and luckily for me blowing a fuse before any permanent damage could be done. (went through 3 fuses as the only blew when turning left and rub through was only pinhole size but slight black mark on fork gave it away)
So check your loom as you may have a short somewhere pulling a ridiculous amount of amps through the instruments and frying them..
Lump lingered last in line for brains,
And the ones she got were sort of rotten and insane...
Lump lingered last in line for brains,
And the ones she got were sort of rotten and insane...
I'm kinda wondering --perhaps way off base but- Battery knackered. Jump start -nothing to slow the alternator charge rate- I wonder if the reg rec is fried and the next component in line is the dash.
To see a life newly created.To watch it grow and prosper. Isn't that the greatest gift a human being can be given?
Cats land on their feet. Toast lands jamside down.
A cat glued to some jam toast will hover in quantum indecision
Curiosity was framed; ignorance killed the cat
Fix a computer and it'll break tomorrow.
Teach its owner to fix it and it'll break in some way you've never seen before.
Expensive and a right royal pissoff......"use the chart, Luke": http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...post1129907972
Ok this is where I show my awesome expertise with using a multimeter.....
I set it up fine, is all very step by step and simple, I just need to know whether the reading should go down when opening the throttle.
I tested it, at idle it reads around 13.5+ 'ish', then revved to 2500RPMs (thereabouts-remember no gauges on the bike) reading went down to 12.8'ish' until I dropped the throttle, then pinged back up over 13.5, then the same with 5000RPMs it dropped to around the same, and was reasonably steady then it pinged back up to over 13.5 but under the 14.8 stated on the chart.
If that is what it's supposed to do, according to the chart it's all fine, if not then I guess there's an issue (hopefully that's all normal).
Anyone?
Cats land on their feet. Toast lands jamside down.
A cat glued to some jam toast will hover in quantum indecision
Curiosity was framed; ignorance killed the cat
Fix a computer and it'll break tomorrow.
Teach its owner to fix it and it'll break in some way you've never seen before.
Voltage dropping with revs is definitely not right mate - could be either Reg/Rect or battery. Unlikely to be the alternator, so don't bother with the stator testing part of the chart just yet.
A quick and easy way to test for bung battery or alternator is to swap the battery for a known good one - maybe from a mate's bike, maybe a friendly shop will let you buy one and return it if it's not needed, maybe you have one around. A lot of home alarms, jetskis, quad bikes etc have similar batteries to your bike, as long as it's a 12V battery and close to the same AHr rating as yours (printed on the side, probably 7 or 12) you can use it for a series of tests.
So get a good battery and put it in, repeat the testing - the battery volts should go UP with revs, but no higher than the max of 14.8V.
If the good battery gives you the same readings, it's the reg/rect, so you would have to repeat the swapsies with a know good one of them or get into testing the RR itself.
I always recommend the battery swapsie first since it is usually the quickest and easiest way to check things, and it's also the most likely piece of the puzzle to fail.
Good luck :-)
EDIT: BTW, the pinging back up in volts when you drop the throttle could be the key to the original problem - you may be getting big spikes (20, 30, 40V+) when the revs drop, and that could easily kill a dash when repeated over a period of time..... You won't see those spikes with a multimeter either unfortunately. Just a theory, so don't get too worried just yet :-)
Hi Firefighter
I had a similar problem.
Found that when switching on, no speedo etc, nothing when pressing starter button.
Problem was that the electrical system was not connected to the negative battery terminal because there was a corroded plug.
Follow the negative wire from the battery terminal to where it earths on the crankcase. This is below the back of the fuel tank.
There is a black/white wire that leads from there to a plug which plugs it into the wiring harness. This is the plug that was corroded on my bike. Fix and make a good connection and it may fix your problem.
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