110/70x17 front tyre - which one?

[cbfb]

I have sports demons on my bike, they will be the same as yours, size-wise. They are pretty highly rated tyres eh. They won't last as long as say the gt501 because they aren't dual compound and the center strip of the tyre isn't hard like some, but as you don't do huge straight line k's then it won't matter too much. You should get at least 10,000ks out of them, I think I was told about 12,000k's but of course that varies on how you ride etc.

10,000km, that's pretty impressive. With regular commuting that should last 18 months.

Not going anywhere today tho bloody flat battery!

[awa355]

[QUOTE=cbfb;1129955381]10,000km, that's pretty impressive. With regular commuting that should last 18 months.

Twenty years ago, I put a dual compound Continental Tourer on the rear of my XZ400. It did 22,000k's. I had hoped it might run to 25k but found the tread lifting away from the casing, so changed it quick. Was the only time I've had to replace the front tyre before the rear. You could tell when it moved off the hard centre to the sidewalls. Particually in the wet.

[ducatilover]

I run sport demons on all the bikes I have had, they are very nice all round tires. Cheap as chips too. I'm about to get a new one on the front of mine tomorrow!

[cbfb]

[QUOTE=awa355;1129955810]

Twenty years ago, I put a dual compound Continental Tourer on the rear of my XZ400. It did 22,000k's. I had hoped it might run to 25k but found the tread lifting away from the casing, so changed it quick. Was the only time I've had to replace the front tyre before the rear. You could tell when it moved off the hard centre to the sidewalls. Particually in the wet.

Well the one that's on there now has a wee bit of wear left in it but there is quite bad 'dryrot'. Plus it's some brand I've never even heard of and is 5 years old so I thought bugger it for under 200 it's not worth risking. Dodgy for a WOF too, which I need to get.

I run sport demons on all the bikes I have had, they are very nice all round tires. Cheap as chips too. I'm about to get a new one on the front of mine tomorrow!

Good stuff!

Just need to get the bloody thing started now, turns over but won't fire up. Will have another crack tonight.

[ducatilover]

Just need to get the bloody thing started now, turns over but won't fire up. Will have another crack tonight.

I'll bring my mallet around to persuade the fucker if you want

[cbfb]

I'll bring my mallet around to persuade the fucker if you want

ah the subtle approach!

[ducatilover]

ah the subtle approach!

Works well I have found! Just ask the wife....

[cbfb]

Works well I have found! Just ask the wife....

Tell you what I'm about ready to get the mallet out, after 3 months of rebuilding it's a bit of a bugger when it won't go

[ducatilover]

Tell you what I'm about ready to get the mallet out, after 3 months of rebuilding it's a bit of a bugger when it won't go

Got fuel in the carbs? Got spark/timing right?

[cbfb]

Got fuel in the carbs? Got spark/timing right?

Aye I had been blinkered into thinking 'dead battery' coz well, the battery was dead, but even with a new one it doesn't go.

Yep will check the fuel flow and spark tonight. Now timing is a funny one, I set the timing according to the timing mark on the end of the crank for TDC, but there's a 'T' and just next to it is a line. The manual refers to the timing mark, which I took to mean the line. Maybe I was wrong? Not sure if that 5 degrees or so of difference would make or break it?

Will report back if it still won't go (maybe you can bring that magic mallet round after all).

[ducatilover]

Aye I had been blinkered into thinking 'dead battery' coz well, the battery was dead, but even with a new one it doesn't go.

Yep will check the fuel flow and spark tonight. Now timing is a funny one, I set the timing according to the timing mark on the end of the crank for TDC, but there's a 'T' and just next to it is a line. The manual refers to the timing mark, which I took to mean the line. Maybe I was wrong? Not sure if that 5 degrees or so of difference would make or break it?

Will report back if it still won't go (maybe you can bring that magic mallet round after all).

I would use the "T" mark as trying to start a small engine like that on TDC will probably not work too well, if at all.

[Drew]

You've had the cams out of it aye? It is well easy to time those things 180° wrong. Swap the feed wires (the little wires into it) on the coils and problem might well resolve itself.

[cbfb]

I would use the "T" mark as trying to start a small engine like that on TDC will probably not work too well, if at all.

I would really be fucked off if that's the case, would mean quite a bit of rework. Will exhaust all other possibilities first before going down that route.

You've had the cams out of it aye? It is well easy to time those things 180° wrong. Swap the feed wires (the little wires into it) on the coils and problem might well resolve itself.

Yup had the cams out of it. And I see what you're saying, I did wonder about that at time but no mention of it in the manual so I thought I was over-thinking. By feed wires do you mean swap over the HT leads that go to the spark plugs or do you mean reverse the polarity of the leads going into the coils from the battery? I assume it's the HT leads because I didn't think the polarity mattered but just want to check.

[ducatilover]

Ah yeah the cam timing is a possibility. Are the (Cyl 1) valves open when it's on TDC?

[cbfb]

Ah yeah the cam timing is a possibility. Are the (Cyl 1) valves open when it's on TDC?

I have checked the clearances as described here and from the manual, it would seem that No 1 Cyl's valves are open at TDC as expected (all looking good so far):



Not sure if you've seen the inside of the wee bandit before so here's the end of the crank, you can just make out the 'T' mark and the '|' mark which I was on about earlier:



The reason I used the '|' mark was because this diagram seems to be indicating that:



Do you think I've done it correctly so far?