It's a bit hard for my eyes to make out the details on the crank shot, but, by the looks of things it's all happy
The cams get timed to TDC, the ignition gets timed to the "T".
By swapping the wires I mean as follows...
You have two coils with four leads coming out to the plugs, leave those as they are.
The small wires on the coils are what make the coils discharge, on a Suzuki they are probably one black, and one orange with a different coloured stripe for each coil. Swap those.
Well for some reason it was playing silly buggers with me. Tried it again tonight, thought I would just charge the battery fully and crank it first, so I did that for about 5 mins. Anyway was about to give up when I heard a bit of popping so I carried on then put put put vrooooooooooooooooooooom she bursts into life at 8000 revsAm guessing it just took ages to suck gas through the engine (yep i did have it on prime).
That's a wee bit quick mind you to idle at! Somehow I've fucked up the idle speed/throttle adjustment when I put the carbs back together. Adjusted the throttle as low as it will go, got it down to 7500 revs, no idea what to do now but will go away and investigate.
Anyway much happier now I've heard it tick over and I know the last 3 months of tinkering weren't wasted! Thanks again for your help.
Great news man!
The huge idle explains why it wouldn't start.
As for the idle, is the throttle wheel that the cable goes on returning back to the adjuster screw? I'd look at the cables before pulling the carbs out.
Failing that ensure the slide are returning all the way to the bottom.
If that don't work, fire it up and give it a DAMN GOOD THRASHING! Usually sorts out the bugs for me.
Well I took the throttle adjuster screw off when I was rebuilding the carbs. So now I've loosened the throttle off completely (taken the adjuster screw out of the equation completely) and it's still doing 7500rpm. Although there is a good 5mm gap between the throttle wheel end and the carb body, looks like it should be able to return further but doesn't. At the opposite end of the throttle body is another screw, I don't know what this does but maybe I need to adjust that?
Sorry this is all very vague, naively I thought I could bugger about with the throttle adjustments while I was rebuilding and it would magically work again!
Is there any way of checking that the slides are dropping down without stripping the carbs again?
I was a bit worried about it running @ 8000rpm cold while it's settling in incase it blows up so I've been hitting the kill switch straight after it fires up - do you reckon I should grab some ear plugs and let it rev its nuts off for a few mins and see if it settles down? Like you say could just need a bit of a thrashing.
Was joking about the thrashing mate.
Sounds to me like the cable is too tight. There is an adjustment you can make just off the throttle to take tension out of the cable. (Just trying to decide how to describe it). Will send you a PM and get your phone number, talking is easier than writing.
Any luck yet dude? Tried running with the throttle cable disconnected? Where are the throttle butterflies set to on "closed" throttle and what about the needle heights etc etc
Must sound cool at 8000rpm though![]()
Hi sorry had moved the conversation to here because this thread had gone way off topic!
So far we've established that the throttle cable is as slack as it can be, and the throttles are fully closed. At the moment I suspect that a dodgy hose clip on the inlet manifold is the issue, although I'm having a nightmare of a time finding a replacement (most shops sell approx 12mm hose clips whereas this one is 8.6mm). Going to a breakers tonight though who say they might have something.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks