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Thread: Idling @ 8000 rpm

  1. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSTRS View Post
    Excess fuel (rich) burns black. Excess oil burns blue.
    As a rule.
    Thanks, as I thought but was trying to persuade myself all that white shit is just fuel

    Ah could be nothing, won't panic too soon will check the needle valve o-rings and go from there.

    Cheers

  2. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbfb View Post



    Sounds good, what is Viton? Will I find it at Ripco or Supercrap? Is it a sealant? I have some rubber grease but don't know about using that??


    Nitrile and Viton are types of material the O Rings are made from,

    If they are stuffed you will notice they float valves will come out on the carbs easy and the o ring wont be sticking out from the outside of the float valve and the fuel will bypass and overflow your bowls.

    Take the Orings ,carb and float valve to Saeco or SKF (if you have one where you live, look under bearings suppliers in the Yellow Pages) They will be able to figure out what section and diameter size O Rings you need,

    I think Nitrile Viton O Rings are orange, the origianls might still be black

    Dont put rubber grease in there, It dont like fuel, some oil will be fine to lube the o rings

  3. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by RDjase View Post
    Nitrile and Viton are types of material the O Rings are made from,

    If they are stuffed you will notice they float valves will come out on the carbs easy and the o ring wont be sticking out from the outside of the float valve and the fuel will bypass and overflow your bowls.

    Take the Orings ,carb and float valve to Saeco or SKF (if you have one where you live, look under bearings suppliers in the Yellow Pages) They will be able to figure out what section and diameter size O Rings you need,

    I think Nitrile Viton O Rings are orange, the origianls might still be black

    Dont put rubber grease in there, It dont like fuel, some oil will be fine to lube the o rings
    Ah OK. Well rather than bugger about figuring out which bowl is leaking might as well just change all the o-rings, doubt they are too expensive? Save finding another leak in a few months'.

    Yep got Saeco and SKF here.

    Cheers

  4. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbfb View Post
    Ah OK. Well rather than bugger about figuring out which bowl is leaking might as well just change all the o-rings, doubt they are too expensive? Save finding another leak in a few months'.

    Yep got Saeco and SKF here.

    Cheers
    Yep, do all 4, they dry out and shrink/crack when sitting.

    I got a couple of dozen O rings for VM and TM Mikunis as most of my bikes use them.

    You must be at the end of your problems now aye

  5. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by RDjase View Post
    Yep, do all 4, they dry out and shrink/crack when sitting.

    I got a couple of dozen O rings for VM and TM Mikunis as most of my bikes use them.

    You must be at the end of your problems now aye
    Good stuff will do that.

    Yeah man it's looking like I'm getting there, still shitting myself about that white smoke though. Pray to fuck it's nothing serious. Will get the carbs right then go for a ride see if it clears up.

  6. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by RDjase View Post
    Nitrile and Viton are types of material the O Rings are made from,
    What he said.

    Quote Originally Posted by RDjase View Post
    If they are stuffed you will notice they float valves will come out on the carbs easy and the o ring wont be sticking out from the outside of the float valve and the fuel will bypass and overflow your bowls.
    Just to clarify for cbfb - it's the valve seat bodies. They're normally recessed into the carb body and held by a small machine screw (that's just a bolt that is fully threaded).

    Quote Originally Posted by RDjase View Post
    Take the Orings ,carb and float valve to Saeco or SKF (if you have one where you live, look under bearings suppliers in the Yellow Pages) They will be able to figure out what section and diameter size O Rings you need,
    Not sure they'll have them - I've struggled to get anything but nitrile there in the past so I just go straight to Seal House or Seal Imports.

    Quote Originally Posted by RDjase View Post
    I think Nitrile Viton O Rings are orange, the origianls might still be black
    I've never seen viton in anything other than black.

    Quote Originally Posted by RDjase View Post
    Dont put rubber grease in there, It dont like fuel, some oil will be fine to lube the o rings
    Correct.

    HERE is why you don't use nitrile (NBR) in contact with fuel (even vapour).
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  7. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max Preload View Post
    Just to clarify for cbfb - it's the valve seat bodies. They're normally recessed into the carb body and held by a small machine screw (that's just a bolt that is fully threaded).
    Hmmm, not held in place by a machine screw, if it's the right bit I'm looking at it's just pushed into place and held by the friction of the o-ring. Ducatilover is popping over later to take a look, and I can stick some photos up if we still can't figure it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Max Preload View Post
    Not sure they'll have them - I've struggled to get anything but nitrile there in the past so I just go straight to Seal House or Seal Imports.
    Cool they've got one in Palmy too!

    Thanks

  8. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbfb View Post
    Hmmm, not held in place by a machine screw, if it's the right bit I'm looking at it's just pushed into place and held by the friction of the o-ring. Ducatilover is popping over later to take a look, and I can stick some photos up if we still can't figure it.
    It'll be held there mechancially somehow - it won't be relying on o-ring force.

    It's the bit that the float valve taper end goes into. Normally has a strainer on the top of it that you can't see until it's removed.
    If it wasn't for a concise set of rules, we might have to resort to common sense!

  9. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbfb View Post
    Hmmm, not held in place by a machine screw, if it's the right bit I'm looking at it's just pushed into place and held by the friction of the o-ring. Ducatilover is popping over later to take a look, and I can stick some photos up if we still can't figure it.



    Cool they've got one in Palmy too!

    Thanks
    All will be sorted once Dukelover gets there

    Your bike is putting up a great fight but the Might of KB will fix.............eventually

  10. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max Preload View Post
    What he said.


    Not sure they'll have them - I've struggled to get anything but nitrile there in the past so I just go straight to Seal House or Seal Imports.

    I've never seen viton in anything other than black.


    HERE is why you don't use nitrile (NBR) in contact with fuel (even vapour).
    I forgot about Seal Imports, get stuff from them for work sometimes, Seaco is across the road tho and I am usually getting bearings too and let them sort out odd ball parts. Seal Imports have got so many differnet types of seals, Handy having one local

    I get bright orange O rings that may be a Gunuine part for some of the machines I work on, Cant remeber if after market are Black or Orange or what type they even are

    Nordson glue machine O rings are a dull orange, Hi Temp (200 Deegree C)

  11. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Max Preload View Post
    It'll be held there mechancially somehow - it won't be relying on o-ring force.

    It's the bit that the float valve taper end goes into. Normally has a strainer on the top of it that you can't see until it's removed.
    Yep there is a strainer but it seems a bit different to what you've described, better get some pictures...

    Quote Originally Posted by RDjase View Post
    All will be sorted once Dukelover gets there

    Your bike is putting up a great fight but the Might of KB will fix.............eventually
    Hopefully! Yeah she's really trying hard to piss me off

    Yeah dunno what I would have done without KB... have a permanently broken bike probably

  12. #117
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    Well a bit of an update... Ducatilover came over yesterday to have a look at it, we got the fuel leak sorted I think, needed the float height adjusting on one of the carbs. Bit strange as it was only out on one carb, but anyway it doesn't seem to be leaking anymore.

    Last remaining issue is that once the bike is warmed up, the white exhaust appears (doesn't do it when cold) and the idle gradually increases on its own from around 1500 to around 2500. We were thinking it might be an air leak, the carb rubbers look mint but I'm gonna replace them with a thin layer of sealant to see if that helps.

  13. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbfb View Post
    Last remaining issue is that once the bike is warmed up, the white exhaust appears (doesn't do it when cold) and the idle gradually increases on its own from around 1500 to around 2500. We were thinking it might be an air leak, the carb rubbers look mint but I'm gonna replace them with a thin layer of sealant to see if that helps.
    White exhaust...you mean white smoke? Suggestive of a water leak into a cylinder.

    Possible airleak...got a can of ether? StartYaBastard is essentially that. A very short squirt onto each inlet rubber (do one, then allow to disperse, then the next etc) will tell you if there is a leak.
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

  14. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSTRS View Post
    White exhaust...you mean white smoke? Suggestive of a water leak into a cylinder.

    Possible airleak...got a can of ether? StartYaBastard is essentially that. A very short squirt onto each inlet rubber (do one, then allow to disperse, then the next etc) will tell you if there is a leak.
    White smoke yup. And yup I'm hoping that's not what it is. Checked the head/block wasn't warped/damaged and replaced the gaskets so dunno how that could be happening, would be a pain in the arse if so. Will deal with the rough idle first.

    Not got a can of ether, saw the price of it and thought I'd see if using sealant on the inlet rubber fixes it first. If that doesn't work I'll get some ether.

  15. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbfb View Post
    White smoke yup. And yup I'm hoping that's not what it is. Checked the head/block wasn't warped/damaged and replaced the gaskets so dunno how that could be happening, would be a pain in the arse if so. Will deal with the rough idle first.

    Not got a can of ether, saw the price of it and thought I'd see if using sealant on the inlet rubber fixes it first. If that doesn't work I'll get some ether.
    CRC or WD40 sort of does the same job as Ether, it just seals the air leaks when it is sprayed on and sucks it thru the vacuum leak/leaks.

    Ether does work better and wont make the manifolds slippery as you want to seal them with RTV

    Getting closer mate

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