Er, what?
The regulator testing is done in volts (you are testing for continuity through the diodes) and the stator testing is done in ohms (you are testing for coil resistance)
what part of the chart are you working with? Section C?
Er, what?
The regulator testing is done in volts (you are testing for continuity through the diodes) and the stator testing is done in ohms (you are testing for coil resistance)
what part of the chart are you working with? Section C?
It's both a regulator/rectifier and service manual has it testing in Ohms. There are other tests for checking voltage running across the battery but they all involve running the bike. Something it doesn't do, resistance check just says if any of them are off to replace it entirely, so no real point checking the rest.
Can't really check any voltages without a running bike.
OK, didn't realize you had a service manual, I thought you were using the generic chart linked to above.
You still need to test the rest of the system after replacing the RR, as it may not be the only damaged part. Obviously this means the bike needs to run, so after replacing the RR and making sure you have a good charged battery, see if it will then start.
Cool, that's the plan, just waiting on the parts now. Having them shipped from the factory in Korea. Just to wait now.
She lives!
I guess you received and replaced your RR then?
But remember - you don't want to kill the new one because of another fault somewhere, so test the rest of the charging system![]()
Yep, has all been tested and fine, couple other parts shot but aren't wholly necessary so will swap them at my own leisure.
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