Didn't see it in the above posts, but I reckon double walled rims are a must if you're gonna 'use' it. That's what i kill first.... And v brakes are sweet, just chuck good pads in 'em. They aren't all the same![]()
Didn't see it in the above posts, but I reckon double walled rims are a must if you're gonna 'use' it. That's what i kill first.... And v brakes are sweet, just chuck good pads in 'em. They aren't all the same![]()
Drew for Prime Minister!
www.oldskoolperformance.com
www.prospeedmc.com for parts ex U.S.A ( He's a Kiwi! )
For your budget you'll have to be getting an awesomely good deal to get anything decent new, so something second hand is probably a better bet. From my limited experience...
If you're 6'2" you're looking at a large (around 21") frame
V brakes are ok unless you plan on getting dirty, then your pads are eating your rims
Good cable discs are as good as if not better than cheap hydraulics
8 speed parts are cheaper than 9 speed parts if you buy a bike needing some work
Find someone that knows there way around a bike to go shopping with you.
I have bought a couple of cheap 'project' bikes in the past, something that costs about $100 to buy off trademe is usually going to cost at least twice that to make into a presentable bike, but it's still cheaper than buying a bike in good going order because people are wary of stuff that needs work.
Riding cheap crappy old bikes badly since 1987
Tagorama maps: Transalpers map first 100 tags..................Map of tags 101-200......................Latest map, tag # 201-->
I just did this recently.
My total bill thus far has been $125.
I was going stir crazy as I needed some pedaling.
Bike cost $80 I think. Most of the stuff needed doing was modding and cleaning. But I have changed the pedals to platforms (Until I can find some cheap triple traps), put new grips on it, and some second hand tyres.
Its funny though as all the gear I took off it I sold for $20 (indicators, lights etc).
I remember back in the days an STX RC selector used to cost me $250........and yet now I have a working bike for just over $100.
Reactor Online. Sensors Online. Weapons Online. All Systems Nominal.
If the OP want me to make another Frankenstein bike for him let me know.
I quite enjoyed it.
Reactor Online. Sensors Online. Weapons Online. All Systems Nominal.
Riding cheap crappy old bikes badly since 1987
Tagorama maps: Transalpers map first 100 tags..................Map of tags 101-200......................Latest map, tag # 201-->
Ciao Marco
for a weekend warrier lockout front suspension is a waste of time. you shoudn't be climbing over the front wheel anyway. balance your weight between front and rear to stop the front from lifting on steep climbs. it shouldn't bounce. on fast short climbs there is little to be gained from locking out for the 5-10 seconds of climb unless you are trying to qualify for the worlds.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...-352963703.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...-352048492.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...-351564829.htm
the Kona is bit more specialised and they tend to be a little heavier, but they are also fantasticly strong commuter and skate-park bikes - my 6'5" 105kg son hasn't broken his one yet and he rides vert ramp on it! (his is single speed, not 8 speed though)
Those last two are out of my price range at the mo unfortunately. In regards to the Kona though, would that really be appropriate for a commute??
What about these?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=352277271
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=352962135
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=353240294
Couple of people told me to make sure I don;t buy a commuter bike, like this one,
But I like the sound of this one, even tough it only has rim brakes
should I be wary?
I'd avoid , the frame being no name is one thing, but the componentry being no name is asking for trouble..... (it's the components that have all the moving parts). Strictly as a commuter the frame might be ok, but the wheels/drivetrain etc won't last - and chances are when you take it to the bike shop they'll be throwaway items. The other 2 bikes have name brand components and are known brands, so should be ok.
Ciao Marco
Fair enough, I thought Malvern was quite big in Aus, sys they've been in business since 1902
http://www.malvernstar.com.au/about/
I'd heard of malvern star but not malvern (assumed it was a copy of sorts - my bad for not reading). The componentry is definitely suspect though.... shimano make good componentry (although in this case I haven't heard of them doing 7 spd stuff for a looong time) - but the rest is very budget. If you're gonna use it to go get the bread from the dairy, or do a short commute might be fine.... but wouldn't be up for any off road work and I'd say you'd be replacing stuff within a short time period.
Ciao Marco
my pick of those is the Giant XTC, all other things being equal. for the money you're spending it is all about compromise. Why i picked the Giant: Giant are a decent "Budget" brand (and in fact make some damn good bikes). it has components I have heard of. It looks OK condition wise. Its 27 speed. Its got disc brakes
Never ever buy a bike (or motorbike) without looking at it and test riding it. Note too that guy has zero feedback.
You want to assess its condition, whether it needs any of the consumable parts replaced, what the tyres are like, whether the forks go up and down, whether it shifts gears properly, and whether there are clunks and squeaks or rattles. Plus whether you like the seat, bars pegs etc.
use flat pedals (not too aggressive) because you dont want to have to buy shoes and cleats as well. Plus they are a bitch to set up, and if you do it wrong you are asking for hip, knee and ankle problems. Its worth getting a bike fit from a LBS: cost you some money but worth it in the long term.
Buy yourself a decent set of bike shorts. Wear other shorts over them if you must. Your arse will thank me.... www.groundeffect.co.nz locals, made in NZ, really decent kit and it lasts. Yes a pair of bike shorts costs $100: just suck it up.
dont be concerned about whether it shifts into or pedals well in gear combos you will never use (cross chaining): smallest on the front and smallest on the back, and biggest on the front and biggest on the back. That one in particular strains the crap out of your chain and derailleur. And if your chain is too short and you fuck it up, it has potential to rip the fucker right off the frame (bitter experience talking.....).
things that are consumable items on a pushbike: tyres. brake pads. cables. rear clusters, chains. front chainrings (though you will get two clusters and two chains to one set of chainrings generally)
If your budget stretches to it, and it fits:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...-353585284.htm
all it would need is a set of mudguards (you need them on a commuter bike, trust me) and maybe an upgrade to discs, and that is a capable bike. Surly are cool, too.
I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave
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