Advice needed on mountain bikes

[Hiflyer]

I’m looking at buying a mountain bike, not one that needs to have the best suspension brakes, carbon fibre frame etc etc just a good one I can get to and work from, use on the mountains around Auckland and do a few wheelies for the chicks

I don’t know much about mountain bikes, just that they can be a lot of fun, and I’m only looking to spend around $250-$400.

Should I be looking for one with front and rear suspension?? I know I want proper disc brakes, as I’ve ridden a couple with them and a couple without and know I want them

Is there anything else I should be thinking of?

TIA!

[scissorhands]

I used to ride to the top of OT Hill 4 times a day, via the sheep trails!

Frame size is critical for off roading, get the right size frame. Tyre types are important too, summer and winter.

If $400 is your max you wont get hydraulic disc brakes, and cable ones are crap, so settle for rim brakes, they work very well when set up properly.

[Hiflyer]

If $400 is your max you wont get hydraulic disc brakes, and cable ones are crap, so settle for rim brakes, they work very well when set up properly.

Even if the conditions are muddy or wet?

I assume full suspension would be better for what I'm going to be doing as well?

It's coming into winter and I've seen heaps of sales on so I'm hoping that a more expensive bike might be on sale for an affordable price for me...

[nosebleed]

Rear suspension is not a must. It's more suited to trails. If your mainly on the seal and popping wheelies you'll find that a lot of energy is wasted just making the suspension work.

You'll notice the road orientated bikes have front springers only.

[Latte]

At $400 any full suspension bike is going to be utter shit (new) and/or flogged to death (2nd hand).

Go to woodhill and hire one of their hardtails (front suspension only), they'll have a bike with cross country geometry (XC Bike) , and one with more of a jumping geometry (Dirt Jumper). You can probably convince them to let you try both (say half day rental, split it with an hour on each).

If it were me I'd get the dirt jumper, kinda like a big BMX , can get you around, and feels better trying to wheelie, downhills, jumps etc (obviously). If you stretch to $500-$600 you'll get a lot more bike (2nd hand, but name brand and good cond) although you'll might still find a few good bikes for $400 ish

[HenryDorsetCase]

I’m looking at buying a mountain bike, not one that needs to have the best suspension brakes, carbon fibre frame etc etc just a good one I can get to and work from, use on the mountains around Auckland and do a few wheelies for the chicks

I don’t know much about mountain bikes, just that they can be a lot of fun, and I’m only looking to spend around $250-$400.

Should I be looking for one with front and rear suspension?? I know I want proper disc brakes, as I’ve ridden a couple with them and a couple without and know I want them

Is there anything else I should be thinking of?

TIA!

for that money, look at a hardtail, from a name brand with OK componentry. ask on www.vorb.org.nz for recommendations for a bikeshop, try a few, then see what you can get for the coin.

for that money, you could buy secondhand, but if you dont know what you're looking for, its a lottery.

post up some alternatives, let the critique begin.


Definitely do not buy a shitbox brand from Kmart or the Whorehouse. its teh equivalent of buying a "cheap" Chinese scooter or something. Just dont.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Even if the conditions are muddy or wet?

I assume full suspension would be better for what I'm going to be doing as well?

It's coming into winter and I've seen heaps of sales on so I'm hoping that a more expensive bike might be on sale for an affordable price for me...

you arent spending enough money to get worthwhile full suspension.

leftovers in winter is a good plan.

[HenryDorsetCase]

I used to ride to the top of OT Hill 4 times a day, via the sheep trails!

Frame size is critical for off roading, get the right size frame. Tyre types are important too, summer and winter.

If $400 is your max you wont get hydraulic disc brakes, and cable ones are crap, so settle for rim brakes, they work very well when set up properly.

there are cable discs and cable discs. I have Avid BB7's on two of my bikes and I really rate them. but shitmaster brand made of cheese not so much.

the thing with a pushbike is you sort of get what you pay for, up to about the $3k pricepoint. After that, its wank value.

You are right about frame size. but its not just standover, its top tube. ETT in fact (effective top tube).

OP: how tall are you, and what size legs and torso ahve you got? you a gnome or a spider?

[SMOKEU]

Do a skid like this guy

[aprilia_RS250]

I had the same requirements as you so got me an Avanti Ridge Rider '07 version. Hydraulic brakes and good Shinamo gear system. RST suspension.... fairly average to be honest but has the easy push to lock front suspension mechanism, good for commuting and cycling up hills, does ok offroad. Aluminium frame so no rusting, on the heavy side so can handle a bit of pain and will make you fitter! Paid 800 few years ago probably worth around ~400 now. Similar to this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...-353302216.htm

[marty]

I bought an Avanti Competitor for $450 - XT componentry and hydraulic brakes. It's taken a beating, rides 30k road/river trail rides twice a week and does x-country duties beautifully.

[Drunken Monkey]

As HDC says, there are good cable brakes and bad ones. I had an apollo with cable discs, they never failed me even under abuse. My mate is now riding it, still no issues.
And ditto on a warehouse cheapie, it will break.
You won't get a good full sus for that price new, so just look hardtail.
You won't find a good downhill style one with big travel on the front sus either, so look for a solid XC style.

If you do want to buy new, look for run outs/last season bikes. The RRP margins are ridiculous (never pay sticker price) and the shops are pressured to sell the latest and greatest, so previous years models get dumped and often enough the differences are only 1 or 2 components or the paint job.

I ride a full sus with 120mm of travel on the fronts, but that's only cos I get them at importer pricing. Back before I had access to massive discounts on Merida gear I would've bought a Trek or Kona hard tail, even those were more than enough bike.

[Hiflyer]

there are cable discs and cable discs. I have Avid BB7's on two of my bikes and I really rate them. but shitmaster brand made of cheese not so much.

the thing with a pushbike is you sort of get what you pay for, up to about the $3k pricepoint. After that, its wank value.

You are right about frame size. but its not just standover, its top tube. ETT in fact (effective top tube).

OP: how tall are you, and what size legs and torso ahve you got? you a gnome or a spider?

Bit of a spider haha I'm 6'2 not sure about how tall my legs are but I'd say normal height .... if that's a good enough explanation

As HDC says, there are good cable brakes and bad ones. I had an apollo with cable discs, they never failed me even under abuse. My mate is now riding it, still no issues.
And ditto on a warehouse cheapie, it will break.
You won't get a good full sus for that price new, so just look hardtail.
You won't find a good downhill style one with big travel on the front sus either, so look for a solid XC style.

If you do want to buy new, look for run outs/last season bikes. The RRP margins are ridiculous (never pay sticker price) and the shops are pressured to sell the latest and greatest, so previous years models get dumped and often enough the differences are only 1 or 2 components or the paint job.

I ride a full sus with 120mm of travel on the fronts, but that's only cos I get them at importer pricing. Back before I had access to massive discounts on Merida gear I would've bought a Trek or Kona hard tail, even those were more than enough bike.

for that money, look at a hardtail, from a name brand with OK componentry. ask on www.vorb.org.nz for recommendations for a bikeshop, try a few, then see what you can get for the coin.

for that money, you could buy secondhand, but if you dont know what you're looking for, its a lottery.

post up some alternatives, let the critique begin.


Definitely do not buy a shitbox brand from Kmart or the Whorehouse. its teh equivalent of buying a "cheap" Chinese scooter or something. Just dont.

and no I wont be buying anything from Kmart or Warewhare. haha I'd much rather something from a dedicated bike shop.

I'll have a nose around on trademe, so you guys reckon an XC bike with front susp only and cable discs would be sweet for the price range I'm looking at??

I must admit I do drive a hard bargain and get good discounts when they're available. And even when they're not haha. I NEVER pay sticker price if I know I don't have to..

[shrub]

At that price you'll end up with crap bought new whereas there are a lot of good bikes for around that money on tardme - I ride a 10 year old Marin every day and it goes brilliantly because I have kept on top of the maintenance. Things to consider;
Buy a known brand - Giant, GT, Marin, Trek, Kona or Bauer are all good bikes, and you need an 18 inch fram for your height.

Ignore full suspension. Front is all you need for 99% of recreational mountain biking and 100% of commuting and rear suspension draws pedal energy, so they're harder to ride.

Check the components (gears and brakes). You should be looking for Deore or LX comps as a minumum, and check their condition. If they're badly chipped and marked and if they don't show signs of regular cleaning and lubing, walk away. The cables and chain are a giveaway - if they're clean, adjusted and work well it says a lot about the previous owner, and check the condition of fasteners. The bike should feel tight and crisp to ride with no slop in gears, brakes, pedals etc.

I have V brakes and weigh 120 kg and the bike stops fine from any speed, so don't be afraid of rim brakes. If the bike has rim brakes, look at the wear on the rim because that will tell you how much it's worked.

[avgas]

- If your over 6ft you will need a Large frame (if its mostly road riding), say 20" or bigger.

- as others have said you don't need rear suspension unless you have gammy legs or ride lots of trails

- When you get front suspension ALWAYS get "lock outs" as this makes road riding better.

- Depending on how often you ride, second hand can be a good option - the trick is to check the componenty. Go for a short ride, if anything clunks or grinds DON"T BUY! When I was racing, my bike cost just over $900 and I ended up spending about $2000-3000 on componenty I broke over 2 years. (heh I still have the frame - gonna make me a coffee table one day)

- Don't bother with discs if its just a commuter. V-brakes give better feel and are easier to maintain. I actually prefer a V-brake rear now to disc - I just about wanted to rip the Hayes9 off my old bike a few times. I would love a set of Magura Hydraulic rim clamps - even more than the top disc brakes.

- Get a XC frame if your coming back to riding. Dirt jump bikes a great fun but completely impractical to ride to work if your not fit.

- Brands ARE important. RockShox, Marzocchi , Shimano, Magura, RST, GT, Avanti.......etc have spent 30 years building quality MTB stuff. SR Suntour, Mongoose......have been selling the same badly copied cheap crap for years. Avoid like the plague

There are brands in the middle, some have done good - others not so much.
Diamond Back (called DBX now I think), Wheeler, Merinda...etc - only buy if your getting a really good deal. They usually have 1 thing wrong with them, but if you can live with it they are OK. My old Wheeler was quite heavy - but was a great bike overall for the money.