Daytona 675 EXUP valve issues

**stormy1** · 28th February 2011, 10:40

I was wondering if anyone else on here was suffering engine fault lights as a result of issue with the Triumph EXUP valve, I have the 2009/10 675.

The first time I had the fault light come on, the dealer (bike still under warranty) traced back to a stone being caught in the actuator mechanism ... all good.

However, the fault light (and fault?) just keeps on re-curring. I check the actuator (at the servo and exhaust) all clear. The bike does it's 10 odd no fault starts and the fault light clears itself and then STRAIGHT AWAY you can here the valve opening and closing at least 5 times at idle then the fault light comes straight back up. talk about getting pissed off!.

I have the front of the fairning fully meshed (holed the radiator so have meshed right through to the bottom of the yolk) so am reasonabley confident of eleiminating most stone related issues and each time the fault light comes on, the system is clear and I can see the valve working from fully closed to open at start up while the sytem does its checks.

HELP!

**steve_t** · 28th February 2011, 10:51

A quick google search reveals that this is quite a common issue and there was a dealer bulletin back for the 07 model advising that it needs proper adjustment and how to do it.

Stole this from another site but it asks for the Triumph Diagnostic Tool to be attached

"WARNING If the engine has recently been running, the exhaust system will be hot. Before working on or near the exhaust system, allow sufficient time for the exhaust system to cool as touching any part of a hot exhaust system could cause burn injuries"

1. Remove the rider's seat
2. Disconnect the battery, negative (black) lead first.
3. Remove the right hand lower fairing
4. Remove the cover from the butterfly valve cables on the actuator
http://www.triumph675.net/photos/alb...cs/10971/1.jpg
5. Slacken both cable adjusters at the actuator to give the maximum amount of slack in the cables.
http://www.triumph675.net/photos/alb...cs/10971/2.jpg
6. Remove the cover from the butterfly valve cables on the exhaust header.
7. Slacken the butterfly valve cable locknuts and, using the adjuster nuts, set the distance between the end of the cables and the cable retainer casting on the exhaust header to 5 mm. Tighten the locknuts to 5 Nm.
http://www.triumph675.net/photos/alb...cs/10971/4.jpg
8. Reconnect the battery, red lead first.
9. Attach the Triumph diagnostic tool to the dedicated plug.
10. Turn the ifnition to the "ON" position.
11. On the diagnostic tool navigate to and select the "ADJUST TUNE" option.

"WARNING Pressing the validation key will cause the exhaust valve actuator to move to the adjustment position. To prevent injury, never place loose clothing, fingers, or hands near the exhaust valve actuator, cables or the valve on the header pipe, until the actuator has moved to the adjustment position. Loose clothing, fingers or the hands could become trapped during valve/actuator movement and cause crushing injury to the fingers, hands or other parts of the anatomy."

12. At the next screen, align the cursor with "EXBV ADJUST" then press the validation key which is marked "*".
13. On pressing the validation key, the diagnostic tool will send a command, which drives the exhaust valve actuator to the middle position, and the diagnostic tool will show the screen below.

" EXBV ADJUST
ADJUST / REPLACE
CABLES THEN
PRESS * TO CONTINUE"

14. The exhaust butterfly cables can now be adjusted as follows overleaf:
15. Turn the adjuster shown in the illustration below until the butterfly valve pulley wheel arrow is level with the lower edge of the butterfly valve "stop" casting.
http://www.triumph675.net/photos/alb...cs/10971/5.jpg
16. BLANK
17. Turn the adjuster shown in the illustration below to remove the slack from the cables. Measure the cable slack as follows:

Using light finger pressure, squeeze the cables together at the position shown below.
http://www.triumph675.net/photos/alb...cs/10971/6.jpg
Whilst maintaining light finger pressure, measure the distance between the two cables.
When the cable slack is correct, the distance between the two cables should be 12 - 14 mm.
http://www.triumph675.net/photos/alb...cs/10971/7.jpg

18. Tighten the cable adjuster locknuts.
http://www.triumph675.net/photos/alb...cs/10971/8.jpg

"WARNING Pressing the validation key will cause the exhaust valve actuator to move to the closed position and then the fully open position. To prevent injury, never place loose clothing, fingers or hands near the exhaust valve actuator, cables or the valve on teh header pipe until the actuator has stopped. Loose clothing, fingers or the hands could become trapped during valve/actuator movement and cuase crushing injury to the fingers, hands or other parts of the anatomy."

19. On the diagnostic tool, press the validation key marked "*" to return the actuator to normal control and return the diagnostic tool to the ADJUST TUNE menu.

NOTE:
If the cable adjustment procedure had been correctly carried out, the exhaust valve will now be in the closed position.
If the adjustment is not correct, the exhaust valve will be set in the open position and the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) will be illuminated, indicating the presence of DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes).

20. Rectify the DTCs as necessary by repeating the adjustment procedure.
21. On the diagnostic tool, scroll to the "DIAGNOSTICS" menu and select "READ STORED DTCs". Re-check for any stored STCs and rectify as necessary.
22. Turn the ignition to the "OFF" position.
23. Disconnect the Triumph diagnostic tool.
24. Refit the cover to the butterfly valve cables on the actuator. Tighten the fisings to 2 Nm.
25. Refit the cover to the butterfly valve cables on the exhaust header. Tighten the fixings to 12 Nm.
26. Refit the right hand lower fairing.
27. Refit the rider's seat.

**steve_t** · 28th February 2011, 10:54

Another site says the valve also needs to be adequately lubricated. Maybe worth looking at to make sure it's moving freely

**stormy1** · 28th February 2011, 11:01

Thanks for the quick replies! Two things cross my mind, the first is that the bike is still under warranty so should I be needing to go through a 27 step fix myself, especially if this is a "known" issue.

2nd relates to the lubrication think, when the covers are off the servo and exhaust, i can see the flap fully cycling (from closed to open) so doesnt appear to be sticking unless there is more than the prescribed resistance (load) at the servo hence the fault? I was thinking maybe adjusting so is never fully closed?

Stormy