My bike won't start!

[swbarnett]

Went for a ride last night and got stuck in Dargeville. I was going to go further but after I stopped about 8:30pm to think about where I was going to stay Icouldn't get started again. Thankfully I'd stopped outside a motel so I just sheeled the bike in and stayed the night.

This morning I discovered a small slope out the other side of the motel and managed to start it by rolling down the hill. Stopped in Kaiwaka for petrol at the top of the hill and needed the hill once again to get started.

When I try to start it I get a loud click (so the relay's obviously working) and nothing else (if I hold the button in I hear a hissing sound coming from the carbs or thereabouts). I tried to jump it when I got home using my wife's bike but got texactly the same behaviour (so the battery is obviously fine). Also, the headlight etc. is fully bright.

Can anyone shed any light on what the problem could be?

[steve_t]

Starter motor shagged?

[swbarnett]

Starter motor shagged?

I was wondering about thtat. I'll take it off once the bike cools and check it.

[spookytooth]

cupple of tests ya can do if you can get at the starter while its on the bike.Cross the terminals with a screw driver if it starts to work its probly the solinoid {sp} If that does nothing try giving the starter a cupple of taps with something blunt,if its works "starts" then its most likley a shagged starter

[notme]

Steve_t is most likely right - starter problem. Here's the background info so you understand why, and it might help you track down the problem.

The starter in your bike is simply an electric motor that spins the bike engine to get it started. Push starting does the same thing in that it spins the engine by way of the wheels and final drive.
The bike could be built with a switch on the handlebars that goes directly the the starter motor, but the starter motor draws a fair amount of current and so that switch would be pretty chunky, as would the wiring to it. SO, the switch on your handlebars sends a small current to the solenoid (menaing small pushbutton and small thin wires), which is a chunky switch controlled by a small trigger current. Now the big fat wires only need to go from the solenoid to the starter.

The solenoid makes a clunk when activated.

Since you are hearing this clunk, the headlight is bright, and the bike pushstarts fine, we can conclude that the problem is AFTER the solenoid. The only things after the solenoid are the starter motor assembly and it's wiring.

The reason it has been suggested to give the starter motor a whack (use a piece of wood not a hammer!) is that sometimes brushed DC motors can get stuck with the brushes on a dirty/corroded/damaged part of the commutator, or the brushes can be stuck in thier slides and not touching the comm.

Things to try in order of easiness are:

1. Give the starter a few whacks with a piece of wood in different places on it's case (getting to it might be hard but see what you can do). This might fix a stuck brush, but you still have to then take the starter off and fix it properly if that's the problem.

2. Check the starter side of the wiring - the positive cable going to the starter from the solenoid, and the earth cable which could be any of: between frame and engine, battery and frame, starter and engine/frame/solenoid. Check connections for tightness and cleanliness - take them off and clean all surfaces with sandpaper and replace if needed. Take the battery negative lead off first to prevent whoopsies.

3. Replace or recondition starter motor. Before doing this, just to make sure it'd not the solenoid power contacts, you might want to try a known good starter first - it doesn't need to be the correct one for your bike, just any 12V bike starter. Connect the power cables to it and put it on the floor with someone holding it tightly or your foot on it, and try the button. If it spins, you know the problem was your starter. If it doesn't, the solenoid is the problem.

good luck

[notme]

cupple of tests ya can do if you can get at the starter while its on the bike.Cross the terminals with a screw driver if it starts to work its probly the solinoid {sp}

Just a note to prevent someone's screwdriver being welded to their bike - you don't want to short the starter terminals, you want to short the solenoid main terminals (the ones with the big positive cable that goes to the starter).


However, since the solenoid is clicking in this particular case, there's no need to do this test unless you absolutley want to be sure it's not the solenoid contacts (unlikely but hey it's a quick test to do)

[CookMySock]

Sounds like worn starter brushes or worn solenoid contacts.

Do spookytooths solenoid check, (triple check the bike is in neutral first plz, coz this bypasses all the safety mechanisms - ie no rider seated on bike, clutch not in) and if that wont start the bike then pull the starter off, disassemble and check for brushes worn out or jammed in holder. Don't be afraid of it, theres usually just a couple of bolts holding it together. Just don't lose any bits!

If you don't want to do the repair yourself, just take the box of bits to your local auto sparky and ask for "brushes for this plz", and "also tell them to spend five mins giving it the eyeball" and let you know of any other problems.

Starters aren't rocket science, so whip it apart and see what you can see.

[notme]

....triple check the bike is in neutral first plz, coz this bypasses all the safety mechanisms - ie no rider seated on bike, clutch not in.....

Good call! Although probably not needed in this case(see above), that's good info to bear in mind when you remember this test in future.... Also be careful where you stick the screwdriver - don't touch the bike frame!

[bogan]

Since it's a solid click rather than a repetitive clicking, your starter isn't getting enough current, either cos the brushes/windings are buggered, or due to a wiring fault. I would still do the screw driver solenoid test as the solenoid contacts could be buggered. Then check the wiring, easy to identify cos it's just all the thick stuff!

[swbarnett]

I've been away overnight and just managed to get the starter motor off the bike. I got it open and it's full of oil. Pretty sure this is not good for an electric motor and it certainly doesn't match the picture in the workshop manual that shows it nice and dry.

[swbarnett]

Looks like I either need a new starter motor unless I can get this one reconditioned. Took the brush plate out as per instructions and the negative brushes have broken free from their wires.

Anyone know where I can a starter moter for a 1986 CBX550 reconditioned or replaced?

[Henk]

Try DC Trial in Glen Eden 818 3658. If they can't fix it it's probably shot

[CookMySock]

Took the brush plate out as per instructions and the negative brushes have broken free from their wires.

Don't ask them to "recondition" it, coz they will apply the $200 "standard fee."

Just tell them you want "some brushes for this please" - $7 later you are back in business. Take brushes home and file them to fit the holders so they slide loosely. Replace the seal ($2 from repco) so it doesnt fill with oil again, clean with petrol, reassemble, refit, and bobs yer uncle.

Working on your bike is a lot easier than you think it is. Just dont panic and take your time. Fixing bikes is very rewarding.

[notme]

Find out why it's full of oil too....

[swbarnett]

Took the starter motor to DC Trial on Monday. Rang them today and was told that I'd be better off getting a new one as at the very least it needs a complete rewind and this may not be possible.

So, anybody know where I can get a starter motor for a 1986 CXB500?