Service intervals - Can they be stretched as the bike ages?

[CookMySock]

6000k or 6 monthly oil change & lube pivot points, check air filter
12000k or 12 months as above & replace spark plugs
18000k or 18 months as above + change air & oil filter
24000k or 24 months as 12000 & check valve clearances
every 2 years replace coolant & brake fluid
every 4 years replace fuel & brake hoses

Excessive IMO. Designed to put money in the stealerships pockets.

[outlawtorn]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the amazing feedback and advice, very much appreciated.

I have decided to give it a bash at servicing it myself and take it into the dealership when major services or changes are required.

So I've ordered the Haynes manual and will go shopping for oils and what-not this week and give it a crack on Saturday!

Thanks again everyone!
Cheers
John

[p.dath]

I have decided to give it a bash at servicing it myself and take it into the dealership when major services or changes are required.

So I've ordered the Haynes manual and will go shopping for oils and what-not this week and give it a crack on Saturday!

If you don't mind the trip to Takapuna, go to Cycletreads:
http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/
You can get your oil and filter there. You might also need a tool to remove the oil filter if you don't have one (and you can get that there as well).

Your next big decision will be what kind of oil, mineral, semi-synthetic or fully synthetic ...

[outlawtorn]

Bugger, didn't realise what kind of oils are out there! What would be the best for 80km daily commute and heaps of weekend riding? I don't hoon around heaps but I do sometimes forget about the speed limit!

Or is oil like petrol ,each one has their own preference but they all do the same job?

[sil3nt]

Or is oil like petrol ,each one has their own preference but they all do the same job?

^This

People will argue for 20 pages on here. Same shit different label.

Any oil is better than no oil.

I'm happy spending the extra money for castrol if i have it. I'm also happy to throw the cheapest shit i can find in there if i don't have the money.

[Smifffy]

Bugger, didn't realise what kind of oils are out there! What would be the best for 80km daily commute and heaps of weekend riding? I don't hoon around heaps but I do sometimes forget about the speed limit!

Or is oil like petrol ,each one has their own preference but they all do the same job?

If you have the job sheet/invoice from one of your previous services, it could well be itemised to the brand/type of oil they used. Then you could just match that if you wanted to.

[firefighter]

You might also need a tool to remove the oil filter if you don't have one (and you can get that there as well).

Or you could leave your vagina inside and un-do it with ya hand! You know a bit of elbow grease........failing that, groove joint pliers will do if it's been swung on too tight, well, so long as you are replacing the filter too. No need to waste money on an oil filter wrench.

[Swoop]

I got the local mechanic to do it just to give it a once over.

Just out of interest, who do you use out west?

[STUFF]

Oil should be changed in time, as they say in the instructions. Regulation is the thing seriously,!
... Without much explanation about the oil and filter change is very short.
I am a regional dealer MOTUL and qualified!

Engine oil becomes unusable due to oxidation! Not due to mechanical loads! Other oil withstands different engine load. Synthetics - less friction, more power, better facilities, less carbon. (If the run is not a big 5-40 rather than 10-60, additive viscosity is strongly oxidized, carbon build-up more, but very well protected from the critical friction)
Semi-synthetics - the middle. but depends on the quality and the set of additives.

Mineral oil is already out of favor, it's the last century.
Low base number! That means the engine is not washed! Few modern additives.
If the engine has a lot of speed, it absolutely can not use!

Mineral oil for the old, not powerful enough engine speed!
Or if you really do not care what will happen to the engine.

personally I use for my bike with 4 cylinder engines 10-40 MOTUL 300V Factory line. This is not something to what we should save.

As an old Russian proverb,"God protects the one who saves himself! ... nun said, putting a condom on a candle"

[scracha]

I'm gonna disagree with nearly everyone on here. Yeah mate, stretch the service intervals out as the bike gets older. My TDM gets its oil changed twice a year if it's lucky. It's "big" 38K service was due over a year ago. It's now at almost 60K. Hasn't missed a beat.

My TDM850, VFR750, XJ550, XJ600 and GPX600 all got treated in a similar fashion. Most were owned over 3 years and all went strong for years afterwards. Don't rev em too hard when they're cold and you'll be sweet. Official service intervals are there to make bike shops dollars. Put it this way, should the worst happen, the money I've saved would more than pay for a new engine on my bike.

[over5tayer]

...... My TDM850, VFR750, XJ550, XJ600 and GPX600 all got treated in a similar fashion. Most were owned over 3 years and all went strong for years afterwards ....

Someone remind me to never buy a bike off this guy...

[scracha]

Someone remind me to never buy a bike off this guy...

Your loss. Lotsa guys change their oil + filter religiously yet think nothing of doing clutchless gear changes and rev the tits of their bike from cold. I know who's engine will be in better condition.