Loud and Uncouth
Used 'natural' oils for ever, yet to have a motor not start/wear out whatever from using the stuff.
And I'm too Scots to pay the extra for man-made stuff just to see how much difference there is (which probably would not be immensely obvious to a rube like me)
Winding up drongos, foil hat wearers and over sensitive KBers for over 14,000 posts...........
" Life is not a rehearsal, it's as happy or miserable as you want to make it"
Forum whore
A Mobil 1 racing 4t (a true synthetic) will cost you rrp of $89 for a 4lt pack, to just put that out there, you can buy it cheaper tho.Originally Posted by 98tls
No,i dont i just believe (ive no reason to not) that good quality mineral does the job,if i had ever had reason to see that it doesnt i would have changed.To be honest i cant remember what the last lot cost me which brings to mind that this is where my opinion/belief may have a flawas its been so long since i compared prices maybe there not to far apart these days as they used to be,tell ya what Q i have to go into town tommorow,will call in at the bike shop and compare the prices as you may well have a point though that said i will as i have for 40 or so years continue to use good quality mineral.(old and set in my ways
)
I had Motul 5100 in my R1, of course changed it to Mobil 1 after two weeks and the difference was significant, the engine spins up easier and the temp is generally lower, gearbox shifts where smoother also.
I am prepared to offer you a deal so you can try it out, so pm me next time you need some okies, you wont go back.
The instructions are simple...
Right or wrong, I understood synthetic to be 'formulated for modern engines, with their tight tolerances and high performance' - whereas an old/er bike, even reconditioned, just doesn't compare in those areas. Hence mineral (being what was available when they were designed) is all you need.
Of course, I was also led to believe that with full synthetic, the oil change intervals could be safely doubled...
Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?
Slapper?
Will do Q,set in my ways i am but always happy to be changed.
Slapper?
You could lube up the tassles with it T,they would start flaying straight away even in the coldest Southern conditions.
Forum whore
Hi John, nah thats a complete myth mate, you can run any engine on synthetic oil.
Synthetic oils will last longer than a mineral, that is a real synthetic oil, we tested (in the states) oils such as P,C,V, and a few others, their viscosity index fell apart as soon after 150 engine hours, Mobil 1 didnt break down at all at that level and showed only slight changes after 500 hours.
not all oils are the same.
Ive run out of fucks to give
In the riders seat
Apart from my 1 litre per 1000km oil burning XJ550 all my bikes have run synthetic even my Bucket and apart from the FXR150 bucket I haven't owned a bike built later than 1985
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
The instructions are simple...
I don't entirely understand that. What are P, C, V oils? Mineral, semi-syn, syn, cheap?
I do understand that the better an oil is, the better the protection it offers, but that any good mineral oil isn't going to lunch your engine anytime soon. That is 98TLS's point...spend more on your oil if you want, but don't be concerned if you choose to run a good mineral oil.
Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?
L-Plate Rider
Synthetic oil is more stable than mineral. And the amount of additives to withstand heavy loads at different operating conditions.
Example - Yamaha Drag Star 400 mineral 15-40. or 20-50
- Yamaha R1 synthetic 10-40(small travel) or 10-50( long go)
For motorcycles not desirable viscosity 5w.
Low personal B.M.E.P.
Watched some of the replies with interest...and disagree with some too.
The original question from Camsec refers to a racebike which if he's used OE type rings will have a chrome faced top ring. The Elf may or may not give problems bedding in. Unless he does a run or two to Akaroa to get enough load cycles on the motor it may not bed in fully for as much as a season's race use.
My own policy when starting up a rebuilt race motor is to use Mineral for the break in period. If the budget will cover it then use Synthetic,sure. Mobil one is as good as anything out there - I used it when it first came in.
I've had problems with race motors whose owners had oil sponsorships....straight onto the "good stuff" supplied by the sponsors. One speedway motor never did bed in and the sponsors insisted we kept using the oil supplied as it could not be the fault of the oil - it was the best they sold....
Fair weather rider
Have to admit to not having checked for a long time but still think that Mobil 1 or Mobil 4T are cheaper because you use less petrol. I started using Mobil 1 in an old Triumph 2500 immediate improvement between 5% and 10% in consumption really paid for the cost of the oil changes. The TDM had Yamalube in it and only just changed to 4T so too soon to tell if a difference but I can buy Mobil 4T lots cheaper than I can get Yamalube.
L-Plate Rider
Not a good product can be cheap ... You maybe once faced with this.
Yamalube or mobil depends on the specifications of oil. If it's for racing, then it should cost accordingly! Each product advantages,in one the low price but in another high quality!)
Hardcore Biker
http://www.triplezeecycles.co.nz/Doc...tion Jun09.pdf
These tests were done in the USA, land of the lawyer.
If the results werent true, were skewed, or whatever, Mobil, castrol, belRay, etc etc would be all over Amsoil like a rash. But they arent so draw your own conclusions.
IMHO the biggest advantage of synthetics is they dont break down/ wear out.
Mineral oil is breaking down as soon as its put in the plastic bottle and once its gets a thrashing in your engine its down hill all the way, hence the 5000km service intervals.
The oil is basically stuffed, but it has been on the downhill slide as as soon as you put it in your motor.
Using synthetics the savings come because you can extend the oil change intervals compared to mineral oil intervals.
The synthetic oil is still OK its the filter system that lets it down by not fully cleaning the oil. Using a bypass filter system you could run 100,000km just changing filters and topping up at filter time.
You can run mineral oil through these filter systems but the oil itself breaks down so you will still have to change it.
It might cost me $90 for 3 L of Amsoil but I only do it every 15000k so overall it works out a lot cheaper than my pal who buys $30 oil from the the warehouse and changes it every 2500k.
I have been using Amsoil for 25 yrs, have been inside 100's of motors and seen the difference.
Bought a new Harley in 1987, changed to Amsoil after 50km, 100,000km pull the top end to do the barrel gaskets, clean as a whistle inside, back together, 170,000 km pull the top off to do lifters still good as gold. Put new rings in for something to do. Oil changes at around 15000km, filters at 5000km.
Just my personal experience
cheers
Last edited by TripleZee Dyno; 5th April 2011 at 17:44.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Attachment didn't work. Yes US is land of the lawyer, take for example the Slick50 debacle where DuPont who make the ingredients were sued for saying that it doesn't work like they (Slick50) claimed. And won.
Where's Flip when you need him?
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Hardcore Biker
Duh 2 meAttachment didn't work. Yes US is land of the lawyer, take for example the Slick50 debacle where DuPont who make the ingredients were sued for saying that it doesn't work like they (Slick50) claimed. And won.
Where's Flip when you need him?
Have another go
cheers
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