Ya can't go past the fortified banana skins IMO...
Ya can't go past the fortified banana skins IMO...
Meh! All our cars do big miles, we use good oil every 5k and oil and filter every 10k. It takes me less than 20 mins to change the oil and never had a problem. I still believed (based on observation) that in a vehicle that runs a cam chain or similar (camry balancer shaft) 15K is too long...
yeah sure we all do big miles these days I agree.
The Fact is, that Synthetic oil does not break down as quickly as a Mineral based oil, the reason for this is the impurities present in a mineral oil help break the oil down very quickly, if compared to a synthetic.
The other point is that a synthetic protects the engine at start up better than a mineral based oil due to is better VI and typical additive package, the majority of engine wear occurs at this critical start up moment.
It surprises alot of people when I tell them that their isnt actually little people and molecules with happy faces having a cleaning party in their engines, the only layer between the surfaces in the engine is oil and thats all that will provide boundry lubrication, synthetics do this better, its not debatable its a true fact.
In saying all this we sell more mineral and semi synthetic products than anything of course, the only reason for this is price.
hydrocracking base oil is volatile. it's crap.
Arguments on the quality of oil is good. But personally, I'm sure, the regulations on an oil change is not for nothing is targeted by the manufacturer. And the oil filter should be changed too! There were several cases from my practice, after the winter valve sticky into the oil filter. Replace the engine. Without the oil accelerate twice, in the neutral and 12 RPM ... for this engine is not needed more oil .... Even motul 300V ...)). Result of cheap oil and cheap filters.
Oh yes - price is king... Never fails to amaze me why people purchase vehicles they have no hope of servicing properly.
Also agree with the service length being longer (although HOW long is a matter for debate).
The reason people used Castrol R in race bikes was that it lasted longer in hotter environments. Synth is similar...
The only issues early on with synthetics were some oil seals weaping. All seals are now designed to cope with synthetics. There was a legal thing about it in the USA and seals had to conform - can't remember from what year.
Other than the posibility of the above oil seal issue I can't not see a reason a synthetic oil would 'harm' your engine as you imply. Care to explain.
No mention of additives has been made on this thread. I have a good stock of "Bardahl" oil and fuel additive and wonder if advisable to add to mineral oil. I realize Bardahl is a extreme friction substance and there may not be such conditions in a modern engine.
the best thing to do with oil additives is to take them down to the local refuse centre for suitable dumping
Reputable oil companies have balanced the additive package through high level chemical engineering and testing if you then go and use a additive "to get the product right", ask yourself what do you think they forgot in the oils engineering ? t and what are you "putting" in your engine.....exactly, and if you do use a additive how are you ensuring the additive is going to keep the correct balance in the engineering of the oil?
I find it interesting that the Bardahl brand also sells oil additives, why?
Actually I mentioned Slick 50 a few pages back.
Or any engine. usually the tests they are so good at are totally inappropriate, but make it look like you should spend money on their product.
As I also said - & I'm not claiming to be an expert here, just outstandingly good at pointing out the blindingly obviousbut large oil companies know what is in other manufacturers oils & all the snake oil additives out there. They aren't missing a trick that these additive companies have somehow stumbled upon.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
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