Flasher switch - WOF fail?

[cbfb]

Anyone know for definite if a faulty flasher (low/high beam) switch is a WOF fail?

It's the one that quickly flashes the high beam quickly, not the one that switches between high and low.

It's on the LH switchgear on a GSF250 (G47A model), would be interested in buying if anyone's got one going.

Cheers

[neels]

The one on my last bike never worked, never a problem at WOF time. As long as they can switch on high and low beam can't see why it would be a problem.

[DrunkenMistake]

Oh the passing light switch,
It never gets checked its not W.O.F related, so long as your lights actually work you will be fine, so your High low and indicators break and tail light all go.

[YellowDog]

Anyone know for definite if a faulty flasher (low/high beam) switch is a WOF fail?

It's the one that quickly flashes the high beam quickly, not the one that switches between high and low.

It's on the LH switchgear on a GSF250 (G47A model), would be interested in buying if anyone's got one going.

Cheers

Shit!

I rewired my pass switch to toggle the computer display. It's right by the Dip/Main switch, so I didn't see the point.

Anyone know for sure?

[cbfb]

The one on my last bike never worked, never a problem at WOF time. As long as they can switch on high and low beam can't see why it would be a problem.

Oh the passing light switch,
It never gets checked its not W.O.F related, so long as your lights actually work you will be fine, so your High low and indicators break and tail light all go.

All good, thanks for that won't bother fixing it. Don't see the point anyway, just use the on/off switch right next to it.

[notme]

Anyone know for definite if a faulty flasher (low/high beam) switch is a WOF fail?

It's the one that quickly flashes the high beam quickly, not the one that switches between high and low.

It's on the LH switchgear on a GSF250 (G47A model), would be interested in buying if anyone's got one going.

Cheers

1. It doesn't seem to be in the WOF requirements on the LTNZ site http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/ru...004-index.html

2. You probably don't need to buy one if yours is simply not working (rather than broken off or something) - it's just a spring metal contact, and if it's not working it most likely needs a clean :-)

[cbfb]

1. It doesn't seem to be in the WOF requirements on the LTNZ site http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/ru...004-index.html

2. You probably don't need to buy one if yours is simply not working (rather than broken off or something) - it's just a spring metal contact, and if it's not working it most likely needs a clean :-)

Thanks, didn't know that site existed. All good then.

There's power going across the contacts but the problem is there's nothing between the contact and the 'hinge' of the switch - inbetween is moulded plastic so it's impossible to see where it's going wrong. What's best to clean that with? I've tried CRC. Can't use sandpaper etc cause you can't get inside the hinge.

[notme]

Thanks, didn't know that site existed. All good then.

There's power going across the contacts but the problem is there's nothing between the contact and the 'hinge' of the switch - inbetween is moulded plastic so it's impossible to see where it's going wrong. What's best to clean that with? I've tried CRC. Can't use sandpaper etc cause you can't get inside the hinge.

not entirely sure what you mean mate....sounds like maybe the switch has a missing contact?? it shouldn't just fall out - is the switch damaged? Anyway, if it's not actually damaged, there should simply be 2 contacts that press together when you bress the button. If you can't see both contacts, get some fine sandpaper or similar in there - fold a small piece over so the sandpaper is rough on both sides and try and get it in there as best you can, don't CRC it until you have cleaned it and it works, and even then use CRC contact lube not normal CRC - but to be honest, physically cleaning them is going to have far more effect than anything else.

Also, if it is just dirty contacts, you should be able to get it to flash by wriggling the switch as you press it, if it never ever operates then that contact may well be missing or broken.

[cbfb]

not entirely sure what you mean mate....sounds like maybe the switch has a missing contact?? it shouldn't just fall out - is the switch damaged? Anyway, if it's not actually damaged, there should simply be 2 contacts that press together when you bress the button. If you can see both contacts, get some fine sandpaper or similar in there, don't CRC is until you have cleaned it and it works, and even then use CRC contact lube not normal CRC - but to be honest, physically cleaning them is going to have far more effect than anything else.

Sorry yeah it's difficult to describe. Wish I had taken a photo while it was in bits, have put the switch gear back together again now.

Here is an attempt at drawing the switch. The red line shows where there is power - it goes through the contacts OK but then it should come out the other side of the plastic switch bit at the hinge, but doesn't...

[notme]

Interesting switch design - usually they are a lot simpler, instead of the hinge and spring the top contact is springy and bends.... anyway - maybe the problem is at the hinge? i.e. corrosion in the hinge stopping current flow.... it could also be a break in the conductor in the moulded plastic, but it just seems unlikely for it to break - things normally break at hinge or pivot points, bend points, conncetions etc not just randomly in the middle of the moulded part.....

If you can;t get a replacement, would a thin piece of wire fit inside the mechanism? you might be able to solder it from contact to past the hinge and bypass the break?

[vifferman]

What's best to clean that with? I've tried CRC. Can't use sandpaper etc cause you can't get inside the hinge.

Contact cleaner, of course. Deek Smeeth should have it, but I bought mine at Jaycar (for my garage door opener button on my right-hand switch block).

[cbfb]

Interesting switch design - usually they are a lot simpler, instead of the hinge and spring the top contact is springy and bends.... anyway - maybe the problem is at the hinge? i.e. corrosion in the hinge stopping current flow.... it could also be a break in the conductor in the moulded plastic, but it just seems unlikely for it to break - things normally break at hinge or pivot points, bend points, conncetions etc not just randomly in the middle of the moulded part.....

If you can;t get a replacement, would a thin piece of wire fit inside the mechanism? you might be able to solder it from contact to past the hinge and bypass the break?

Yep I would be suprised if something is broken inside the plastic, like you say it's probably corrosion in the hinge. Can't get it apart unfortunately it's got a rivet through the middle.

Yeah I could try soldering it, good idea.

Contact cleaner, of course. Deek Smeeth should have it, but I bought mine at Jaycar (for my garage door opener button on my right-hand switch block).

Worth a try too, will give it a go before trying the soldering option.

[dogsnbikes]

As said contact cleaner...I use CRC lectra clean I think its call,brillient shit dont even need to pull the switch apart just spray into the switch and it will clean itself


you should clean all switchs,Micro ones as well I do mind in spring and fall