Buying a bike.

[4AGE]

Hey guys,

Hopefully this hasn't been asked heaps.

So having a nose on trademe for a 250.

And some have kms around 45-60kms.

Is this alot?
Like whats this in sort of car kms? So i can understand a bit better.

I know not to read into mileage too much. But i dont want to buy something with the equivalent of 250kms.

Thanks fellas.

[FJRider]

Last time I looked ... 50,000 km's is ... and was ... 50,000 km's ... whatever vehicle you ride/drive ...

[Little Miss Trouble]

How well a bike has been maintained is much more important than the number of kms its done. In fact I'd be inclined to be more concerned about the condition of a older ie 20 year old inline four with less than 20,000km on the clock (likely to be an import that has been sitting in a shed somewhere for ages) than I would something like this which at first glance looks rather tidy.

[4AGE]

So the mileage of these aren't too bad.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=351049278
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=363795252

[matdaymon]

As said above, overall condition is more important that km's
You don't want to buy a bike that's been sitting around idle for a few years but then you don't ideally want to buy something thats had its nuts thrashed off consistently and not been serviced appropriately.
You'd want to be looking at overall condition, checking for a service history, checking it doesn't smoke (if its a 4stroke), make funny engine noises, straight frame etc

[hayd3n]

checking inside fairings for repairs usually is a good indication its had a decent drop
+new paint jobs covering up damage etc
maybe superficial maybe not
repair welds on pegs clipons etc
check for oil leaks,
rattly cam chains
leaky carburetors
loose headers
take a friend who knows bike around to check em out with you

[hayd3n]

So the mileage of these aren't too bad.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=351049278
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=363795252

id get the Honda before the yami
Honda looks original yammi no so

[racefactory]

Km's mean absolutely fuck all for older 250 bikes. With these bikes it's all about condition.

In fact high mileage on these bikes is generally a good thing in my opinion. It's been used regularly and therefore a high chance it has had a lot of work and maintenance done on it to keep it reliable rather than a weekend thrash about that's been passed between owners on the original oil from Hamamatsu factory circa 1990 :s .

I've had many 90's small bikes, had one with 120,000km and it was the best one I've ever had. Had a low mileage sub 20,000km example with factory original fairings, totally stock and all that rubbish etc. Was great on the surface but way more of a headache in reality.

Basically with higher mileage, I've found generally all the teething problems to be already sorted like regulator/other electrical problems, fork oil/springs and seals changed, rear shock replaced/serviced, brake calipers stripped/replaced, brake rotors replaced etc etc. What you're left with is a solid bike that will go on forever.

Even if it's on original motor at 120,000km I haven't found it to be any less healthy at all and the motor can always be replaced hassle free if you somehow wear it out. MC22 and ZXR250 motors are cheap and easy to get. It's things like gummed up carbs and slightly sticking brake calipers that cause warped rotors and old original batteries causing all kinds of running problems on low mileage bikes that have barely been used their whole life that give you the REAL headaches later... these things will have all been inevitably addressed if the bike has seen a certain amount of use/mileage.

If you're not a total novice then high miles is how you can really get a good deal on a bike. Kms are so overrated. The reality is, if you buy a 250 with 'low mileage' eg. 20,000km then you are only just about to come up to the inevitable loose bolts falling out, electrical, carb and brake problems... not to mention head gasket and cam chain on some bikes. Buy one with high mileage but in good mechanical condition and you can not go wrong. Pretty shiny new plastics are only 600 bucks anyway...

If you guys think 80,000km is high... you should see some of the stuff in China- bikes with 300,000km on the clock are everywhere and cars with excess of 600,000km are driving around all the time just fine.

Good luck.

[4AGE]

Seen a few MC19's reasonably priced.

Got a few Q's. Do these still handle well and hold well through the corners, say compared to mc22, zxr? Considering they are a few years older.

And will the single front disk provide adequate braking power, or will i find its limits quite quickly?

They seem like a quite a good option for a sport 250 without spending an arm and a leg.

Overpriced? Or about right?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=365255706

Thanks guys.

[DrunkenMistake]

Seems alright ae, have a look at it etc and see if they will let you test it out, and ignore the bullshit about $19 to fill the tank @$2.29 .. do the math, its a 15 L tank, Wouldnt recommend these bikes for nose to tail traffic commuting, as they over heat pretty quick and you will only get about 120km to a tank, get it out and open it up on the open road and youll be hitting 250km without a hassle to a tank. But they are the typical Honda Bulletproof bike, will start every time, although the CBR's have a thing with the cold, takes a bit of patience and alot of choke.

[DrunkenMistake]

Sorry for double post, the MC22 (CBR 250RR) and the MC19 (R) have fuck all difference, I think the MC19 puts out more torque? could be wrong but if your using your bike for daily commute then consider something like a hornet 250 or Vt250 or even... a GN250.. depends on how much you want to spend, keep in mind a decent helmet, jacket and gloves will set you back lets say $150 for a decent cheap helmet, $40 for some good leather gloves, and between $200 to $500 for a good quality jacket.
If you have a bit of money then I would also suggest boots or those hi ankle motorbike shoes, I think Astars does them, The good think about the Hornet 250 is when you get your full and want a bigger bike, the Hornet 600 is in the exact same frame, well the older hornets anyway (90's) im not sure about the newer ones.
Hope this helps you out somehow

[Hopeful Bastard]

I learned from my mistake.. Sit on a bike before ya buy... As much as I like my Bandit, Tis a bit small for my body size... Although, I do like the seating position. ALOT!

You may have already, But head into your local dealers and see if they have 250's sitting in their store. Have a sit on a few and find out what suits you.

[YellowDog]

I learned from my mistake.. Sit on a bike before ya buy... As much as I like my Bandit, Tis a bit small for my body size... Although, I do like the seating position. ALOT!

You may have already, But head into your local dealers and see if they have 250's sitting in their store. Have a sit on a few and find out what suits you.

Yep, window shopping is no substitute for getting your leg over and having a really good grope. One man's bitch usually turns out to be another man's babe.

[4AGE]

Sorry for all the Q's but i've found a couple of bikes on TM with completely blacked out screens.

Is this likely to cause any visability problems?

I guess what i'm asking is do you look through your screen that much. Spose it depends on your riing position due to height etc.

Sorry for the boobish questions.

[DrunkenMistake]

Nah man, you can be pushing your head against the fuel tank and still see over the screen, the screen is there to push wind over the riders head, so when accelerating you get your head low, and when breaking or about to enter a corner whatever it be, you sit up causing you to slow quicker due to the wind been pushing against you,
What is your highest price you want to go to?