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Thread: 2006 battery: Charge or just replace?

  1. #1
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    9th November 2005 - 18:45
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    2006 battery: Charge or just replace?

    OK, so have not been able to get on the bike in a few weeks. (Don't commute on it, house, family, job, contracting, supermodels, etc...)

    Today it wouldn't start - not enough juice in the battery.

    It's a 2006 bike (2005 model), so I wonder if instead of charging it I should just buy a new battery.

    That is - I know charging it would be cheaper (if it works), but what's the design life of a bike battery anyway? Maybe it's overall easier just to install a new battery and ride off?

    (Just been through this with my car - tried charging the battery a few times, then gave up and bought a battery and it's been faultless since. Did I just answer my own question?)


    Also - it's a fuel injected bike - are there any special precautions when trying to start it the first time after the new battery goes in? Possibly a stupid question, but, ...
    Measure once, cut twice. Practice makes perfect.

  2. #2
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    12th May 2011 - 13:09
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    I'd be inclined to have the battery checked to see if it has had its day but I'd say it's done.
    4 years isn't too bad

  3. #3
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    17th April 2011 - 14:39
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    Ya scottish bastard ya.

    Quote Originally Posted by BAY CITY MOTORCYCLES View Post
    I'd be inclined to have the battery checked to see if it has had its day but I'd say it's done.
    4 years isn't too bad
    Ha ha, four years is pretty good,get a new one.
    For a man is a slave to whatever has mastered him. Keep an open mind, just dont let your brains fall out.

  4. #4
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    I'm going to be different and say replace...
    Quote Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
    It's barking mad and if it doesn't turn you into a complete loon within half an hour of cocking a leg over the lofty 875mm seat height, I'll eat my Arai.

  5. #5
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    Thanks everyone. Bling has been blung.


    What's a "fair cost" for a battery? I can't be arsed shopping around (I'll be walking) so will buy in the first place I walk in to - if it seem$ OK.
    Measure once, cut twice. Practice makes perfect.

  6. #6
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    Piece of string. Don't worry about price, just get a sealed Yuasa.
    If a man is alone in the woods and there isn't a woke Hollywood around to call him racist, is he still white?



  7. #7
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    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by James Deuce View Post
    Piece of string. Don't worry about price, just get a sealed Yuasa.
    Very good batteries, we have never had any problems with Auotbat's as well which are slightly more affordable.

  8. #8
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    As above, 4 years is a good life for a battery, time for a new one.

    Only thing to do before you stick the new one in the bike is give it a good charge, to make sure it has a good start to a long and happy life.
    Riding cheap crappy old bikes badly since 1987

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  9. #9
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    Get a new one. $100?

    www.PhotoRecall.co.nz

  10. #10
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    Sounds buggered and it's only going to get worse over winter.

  11. #11
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    3rd April 2010 - 16:22
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    It isn't too hard to do a load test.

    Charge the battery overnight.

    Put a multi meter across the battery terminals and see what the voltage is. Should be around 13v plus

    Get a 12v 35 - 50w bulb and lash up some wiring so it is possible to connect the light to the battery

    Now, with the mutli-meter attached and reading connect the bulb for 30 sec or so.

    The voltage should tick down (normal) but not race down. It the voltage suddenly 'collapses' esp to anything under 9.5v then the battery is pretty much poked.

    It you perform the test on a cold morning you'll get real world results
    "I don't like it, and I'm sorry I ever had anything to do with it." -- Erwin Schrodinger talking about quantum mechanics.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by schrodingers cat View Post
    It isn't too hard to do a load test.
    For God's sake, don't encourage him. Tomorrow, he'll be posting up how many prototypes of the test equipment he made, the pros and cons of each and which one he is using for the patent application.
    If a man is alone in the woods and there isn't a woke Hollywood around to call him racist, is he still white?



  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by schrodingers cat View Post
    The voltage should tick down (normal) but not race down. It the voltage suddenly 'collapses' esp to anything under 9.5v then the battery is pretty much poked.
    Hell, at 11.5v, my bike doesn't have a prayer of starting. Waiting for a new Shorai battery to arrive

    Edbear
    Nunquam Non Paratus

  14. #14
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    1st May 2011 - 15:17
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    Do you have access to a charger? If you do, what's to lose by trying charging it? Well, that's my pragmatic way of looking at it anyways If it holds enough charge to start the bike, you won't have to walk to get the new battery....and you'll have the old one available if you want to check the size or somethign of the new ones available.

    If you don't have access to a charger and it's 4 years old, yeah as everyone says, just get a new one. As for fuel injection and first start - nothing different to any other start. Also as for giving it a good charge before or after installing, just go for an hour or so ride!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Owl View Post
    Hell, at 11.5v, my bike doesn't have a prayer of starting. Waiting for a new Shorai battery to arrive

    Edbear
    If lead acid batteries drop under 9.7v it damages them.
    THe voltage under load is what I was suggesting is of interest.
    It is common enough for a battery to show 13v but having a dud cell, as soon as it is loaded the arse falls out of it
    "I don't like it, and I'm sorry I ever had anything to do with it." -- Erwin Schrodinger talking about quantum mechanics.

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