1999 GSXR750 forks: fix or repair?

[centaurus]

Hi guys,

I am currently repairing a crashed gixxer 750 srad. The right fork has a slight gravel rash/graze on the inner stanchion. Both of them have very small rust spots on the inner stanchions but they are right at the bottom (the suspension would need to fully bottom out in order for the seal to get close to them).

Personally I would perfer re-chroming both if it's not too expensive. I called my favourite engineering shop - cycleworks - they straightened a pair of forks for me last year and they did a brilliant job of it. Unfortunately Cycleworks doesn't re-chrome forks, and it turns out they are about to close shop for good

I would like some opinions from the people in the know. Can the graze be repaired without re-chroming? Should I re-chrome it or just look for a second-hand one? Does anybody know any outfits in NZ that re-chrome forks and do a good job (preferably close to Wellington)?

[Robert Taylor]

Hi guys,

I am currently repairing a crashed gixxer 750 srad. The right fork has a slight gravel rash/graze on the inner stanchion. Both of them have very small rust spots on the inner stanchions but they are right at the bottom (the suspension would need to fully bottom out in order for the seal to get close to them).

Personally I would perfer re-chroming both if it's not too expensive. I called my favourite engineering shop - cycleworks - they straightened a pair of forks for me last year and they did a brilliant job of it. Unfortunately Cycleworks doesn't re-chrome forks, and it turns out they are about to close shop for good

I would like some opinions from the people in the know. Can the graze be repaired without re-chroming? Should I re-chrome it or just look for a second-hand one? Does anybody know any outfits in NZ that re-chrome forks and do a good job (preferably close to Wellington)?

Sight unseen its difficult to make a call. With respect to chroming theres decorative chroming and hard chroming. Whats required on forks falls into the latter category and when it comes to selecting a company to do the job properly its a minefield. To have it done properly is unavoidably expensive. Hard chroming involves pre-repair of ''craters'' / abrasions, grinding, hard chroming and then grinding to a precise finished size and tolerance ( that needs to be accurately quoted ) And to a correct cross hatch surface finish. Too coarse and youll eat seals and bushings, too smooth and seal life will be short.
We reccommend Engine Component Services in Hamilton who do a lot of work for the aircraft industry. They are not the cheapest but weve never had to send work back or had any issue whatsoever. Cheap is not best.

[centaurus]

I attached some pictures of the damage. Ignore the pin-size white dots allover the stanchion- those are just reflections from the light. The damage is the clearly identifiable two bruizes (the roundish cluster of scratches and the elongated one downstream from it).

Looking at it, it's so superficial that can be easily confused with a smudge of dirt, but if I run my finger nail against the stanchion I can feel it's uneven.

[Robert Taylor]

I attached some pictures of the damage. Ignore the pin-size white dots allover the stanchion- those are just reflections from the light. The damage is the clearly identifiable two bruizes (the roundish cluster of scratches and the elongated one downstream from it).

Looking at it, it's so superficial that can be easily confused with a smudge of dirt, but if I run my finger nail against the stanchion I can feel it's uneven.

It doesnt look great, maybe in the first instance you should get it spun in a lathe with emery paper to remove the high spots / burrs. Start with 600 grit. Then make another appraisal and seek an opinion of an experienced motorcycle mechanic.