1996 2.8 diesel, Anyone got one? Or a link to a free pdf one?
1996 2.8 diesel, Anyone got one? Or a link to a free pdf one?
Why? Didn't Top Gear prove they were indestructable? What do you need to fix?
"So if you meet me, have some sympathy, have some courtesy, have some taste ..."
With a 3L engine...at a guess I'd say he needs to replace the head...if not now,some time in the near future.
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No it's going great. Would just be nice to have one but they seem to be made of rocking horse poo.
Tick tock tick tock.....
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Motu,
Can you elaborate on this, I've just bought a 97 Hiace with a 3L engine to haul dirt bikes around in. Mainly because of the famed Toyota reliability reputation, it is NZ new and I bought it off a mate, it was it as part of a fleet of service vehicles and quite well maintained, high miles tho.
Is there no hope?
cheers
The Toyota diesel has a famed reputation alright - don't overheat or the head will crack,don't break a cambelt or the head will be destroyed.
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I was afraid you were going to say that - I do keep a pretty good eye on the water and temp gauge and the timing belt was changed 20K ago.
I did overheat it once, the return tube into the water tank had broken off from the cap so over time so although there was plenty of water in the tank when I checked it there was none in the system. I've had it checked and it appears to be ok and I've had no issues since.
Hopefully things will be ok.
Anyway thanks for answering.
cheers
The 2LT is the most unreliable of all the Japanese small diesels from that period,makes the Mitsubishi 4D56 look outstanding by comparison.There is no option of a blown head gasket if overheated,they just crack the head.More 2LT heads are sold than any other.The 3L has the same head casting,but as they are seldom turboed they are much more reliable...just don't cook it.And with bucket tappets there is nowhere for the valves to go but through the camshaft with a broken cambelt - don't push those cambelt changes,and don't skimp on the full job.
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so any luck on that manual?
My 3L motor is coming up on 500,00Km and i'm wanting to do some servicing... I don't want it to end up like our old one that would deploy smoke screens on command (well past 650,000km, got stolen in the end)
When mine needed a head - earlier version with roller followers - I had a good look at where it had cracked and why.
They crack between the ports starting from a severe section change left when there's a boring tool put down to do the insert recesses and also to throat the port slightly. Due to shall we say, conservative pattern making, this leaves a very large step in the port below the insert recess.
I reached for the die grinder and ported the head smoothing out the section change.
My theory is that in that area the severe temperature changes combine with the severe section change in the casting to promote cracking.
It's working well so far....
No joy with a manual yet. Mines only done 230,000kms so should be all good for a while eh![]()
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