Brake line fitting seized in caliper - help

[shrub]

I missed the year our your bike, technically you don't need the disk thickness for a bike older than 1980.
Depending on where you go you can get asked all sorts of things, the first place I had a chat to wanted a disk thickness and the rear drum diameter of a 76 bike even thought I told him it had only drums.

I'm not sure how they would view a front end change over but I do think its worth finding someone who knows when different rules apply and in what years to vin the bike. In other words the local vtnz could be a little frustrating.

It's a 78, and that's good news. I'll do some asking around down at the local AA and see what I can learn. The rear rotor has some reall nasty grooves in it and I will probably have to replace that, but am working backwards one step at a time.

[Brian d marge]

As has been said before , heat you can get those calipers quite hot and of course the seals will be toast , then sharp raps on the bleed nipple if you can at the same time turning. ( u can save the nipple , but vice grips may have killed it already )

the freeze spray is doing a similar thing .. a difference in expansion rates

WORST CASE , Drill it out ie take the radial pressure away , it can be done and if you are careful you wont even damage the threads....

Worst Worst case, to test if they are salvageable, ie worth saving,,, Large volume of water , and apply the flotation test, I usually use Bromley sewage works. if they float they are worth saving


Stephen

[Kickaha]

You sure? I thought for sure a 78 BMW would have Brembo F08 / F09 - almost everything else made in europe did... Crazy germans

BMW went Brembo on the front in 1978 although I have seen some bikes with ATE calipers on the front with a brembo rear caliper

My 1977 has ATE front with drum rear

That is very, very good news. What about losing the idiotic remote master cylinder arrangement under the tank and even the entire front end? Perfect world will be modern Japanese suspension, braking and electrics with ancient Kraut mechanicals.

If you're going to stay with the ATE calipers then look for a later throttle/brake assembly off the monoshock bikes and some decent pads

The rear rotor has some real nasty grooves in it and I will probably have to replace that, but am working backwards one step at a time.

Wallace at Marshlands engineering can get some made up for you, he did the 290mm discs for my BMW

Actually i got some discs which might be ok from doing my big brake kit if you want them

[shrub]

If you're going to stay with the ATE calipers then look for a later throttle/brake assembly off the monoshock bikes and some decent pads
Actually i got some discs which might be ok from doing my big brake kit if you want them

I might take you up on that. At this stage my plan is to get it legal and registered, then replace the entire braking system with something a little more contemporary, although if I can get through the vinning process with later model forks and calipers and a proper master cylinder setup I will. I'm not after performance from the old girl, but I really like grunty brakes with feel so I can slow down fast when I feel the need, and a cable operated master cylinder looks like it will offer all the feel of a leather condom.

I doubt the standard front forks come close to a set of 90s onwards forks, so they are likely to be replaced, which I will need to do if I want to fit better calipers. It has recently rebuilt Konis on the back which should do me fine.

[_STAIN_]

+1 line it up carefully and give the bleed nipple a good smack with the hammer

As has been said before , heat you can get those calipers quite hot and of course the seals will be toast , then sharp raps on the bleed nipple if you can at the same time turning. ( u can save the nipple , but vice grips may have killed it already )

the freeze spray is doing a similar thing .. a difference in expansion rates

WORST CASE , Drill it out ie take the radial pressure away , it can be done and if you are careful you wont even damage the threads....

Worst Worst case, to test if they are salvageable, ie worth saving,,, Large volume of water , and apply the flotation test, I usually use Bromley sewage works. if they float they are worth saving


Stephen

[FROSTY:Me]

Shrub--GIVEN you fully intend to toss the whole lot in the bin can I ask why you are bothering? Why not do what you need to do regarding getting the pistons going in and out then hand fill the caliper with fluid through the hose bolt.If you rotate the caliper so this is the highest point you should be able to bleed it there too.
Not a normal recomendation I'd make but it might get the bike legal so you can fit decent stuff.

[HenryDorsetCase]

here's your new front end. in fact why not take the rolling chassis from this and staple and zip tie the old two banger in there? you'd have to convert it to chain drive maybe (or a belt, like a Harley).

that'd be cool!


http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/moto...-391863871.htm

[Kickaha]

I might take you up on that. At this stage my plan is to get it legal and registered, then replace the entire braking system with something a little more contemporary,

If you get the slightly later front end (79/80ish)which has the Brembo 08 calipers you can get way better performance from the brakes and a 4 pot conversion is also really easy to do on them

[shrub]

If you get the slightly later front end (79/80ish)which has the Brembo 08 calipers you can get way better performance from the brakes and a 4 pot conversion is also really easy to do on them

That sounds like the way forward, thanks.

[Kickaha]

That sounds like the way forward, thanks.

The only thing I'm not sure about is if the wheels are a straight swap, I know the wire wheels don't swap straight in without using a GS front hub