Honda NC30 misfiring

[crazy man]

I'd go with your slides lifting poorly or jetting. I've got some jets in the garage, I'll check to see if I have some a few sizes bigger or smaller.

You're in Palmy? I may be able to pop around and have a looksie

will let you no how l get on

[crazy man]

Dude- you took the speedo out didn't you?

Every person racing an NC30 stumbles into this bitch. When you take the speedo out it will miss badly from 6k. The bike has a safety feature built into the CDI to stop the spark to 2 no plugs if the speedo is not detected.

Easiest way is to just put the speedo back in! Or you can cut the little circuit board out of the speedometer, plug it back into the loom and wrap it in a plastic bag to make it water-proof if you are removing the clocks. You can also get an M-Max etc box that you plug into where the clocks would be or use an after-market ignition box like the ignitech. Finally there is the 'resistor mod' you can do.

Oh and also what lostinflyz said is important. Don't go butchering that snorkel and airbox to 'push more air in'. It will only end in tears.

think l will look into what you have said there maybe lm having a promblem with the resistor i put in it

[racefactory]

If at 6k it sounds really bad and hits a brick wall like it's running on 2 and is fine below that then yeah most likely your mod needs a little work and the safety mode is still in play.

[crazy man]

If at 6k it sounds really bad and hits a brick wall like it's running on 2 and is fine below that then yeah most likely your mod needs a little work and the safety mode is still in play.

yes it does sound like that maybe somone has aready played around in the cdi and the resistor l put in has stuffed it up? thanks for you help think l need a play with it

[DrunkenMistake]

Take out the needles from the carbs, and remove them from the plastic housings they are in, check the washer size, if there are two washers, remove one,
if its 1mm thick get rid of it and add 0.5's in its place.
Sounds like its running rich, I had a similar problem with my bike after adding a 0.5mm washer, the 2.5mm hole only adds to the throttle response shouldn't effect much more.

Otherwise it could be the cdi problem.

[DrunkenMistake]

Take out the needles from the carbs, and remove them from the plastic housings they are in, check the washer size, if there are two washers, remove one,
if its 1mm thick get rid of it and add 0.5's in its place.
Sounds like its running rich, I had a similar problem with my bike after adding a 0.5mm washer, the 2.5mm hole only adds to the throttle response shouldn't effect much more.

Otherwise it could be the cdi problem.

Also the front jets should be .. I think smaller than the rear jets. I think I had 120 and 122, and im running a full race exhaust

[ducatilover]

Also the front jets should be .. I think smaller than the rear jets. I think I had 120 and 122, and im running a full race exhaust

118 and 116 or 120 and 118 I think are stock.
Due to the front being cooler than the rear.

[Taz]

Dude- you took the speedo out didn't you?

Every person racing an NC30 stumbles into this bitch. When you take the speedo out it will miss badly from 6k. The bike has a safety feature built into the CDI to stop the spark to 2 no plugs if the speedo is not detected.

Easiest way is to just put the speedo back in! Or you can cut the little circuit board out of the speedometer, plug it back into the loom and wrap it in a plastic bag to make it water-proof if you are removing the clocks. You can also get an M-Max etc box that you plug into where the clocks would be or use an after-market ignition box like the ignitech. Finally there is the 'resistor mod' you can do.

Struck the same thing when I unplugged the speed limiter from my Jap import 91 VFR750. Pluugged it back in and moved sensor and zip tied it to the speedo housing. Sorted.

[crazy man]

hi yes its only got 1 thin washer under the needles the jets are 118 and 120

[crazy man]

ok a bit of progrees. the back choke on carb was stuck on just abit fixed the top end power... but running like crap from about 6-1100 rpm found out part of the carb is missing the tee to the vacuum to the carb one is there the other is gone and see they both joint to the back of the airbox. do you think that will fix the midrange when fixed? ta

[racefactory]

Sounds like you have a well and truly butchered NC30. Wonder what else is missing or been tampered with. Typical. Get it back to stock as much as you can. Get another set of carbs off someone.

[crazy man]

Sounds like you have a well and truly butchered NC30. Wonder what else is missing or been tampered with. Typical. Get it back to stock as much as you can. Get another set of carbs off someone.

it should be fine its just the price you pay when you buy things in bits

[crazy man]

hi all were are the air bleed screws on the nc30? thanks

[racefactory]

Hard to find is the answer to that. They are on the inlet manifolds. If you don't have the haynes manual to show you where then best thing is to take the carbs off and then locate them. You are wanting to balance the carbs right? The method of least hassle is the 'drill bit under throttle butterfly' method rather than using vacuum gauge. Search on 400greybike.com and you will find it. Yields good results.

[ducatilover]

Hard to find is the answer to that. They are on the inlet manifolds. If you don't have the haynes manual to show you where then best thing is to take the carbs off and then locate them. You are wanting to balance the carbs right? The method of least hassle is the 'drill bit under throttle butterfly' method rather than using vacuum gauge. Search on 400greybike.com and you will find it. Yields good results.

Only problem there is it's not as accurate. The reason for balancing is to get the vacuum the same, as we know. There will be variances in valve clearances, carbon build up (Some bikes do it on the left hand cylinders when warmed up on the center stand and the floats are off) so you're not balancing them to how the engine needs them done.
If my rambling makes sense?

I've used that method before and the verniers method and have found that the only way to get it spot on is with a decent set of gauges.

I'm sure the NC30 are uber sensitive to balancing too aren't they?